No Heat, Cant Keep Fire Burning.

 
Ken Hallstead
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Posts: 6
Joined: Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 4:52 pm
Location: Hallstead, Pa.
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kodiak Stoker II
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Other Heating: oil

Post by Ken Hallstead » Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 5:12 pm

I bought a Kodiak Stoker II used and hooked it up this weekend to replace my hand fired coal/wood stove. I have never used a stoker before and need some help / advice on how to burn it properly. I bought some of these "mice" to light it and put a little coal on the grate and lit the mouse and put more on top like the directions said. I plugged the stove in and the blower and feeder were operating, the feeder tray is moving about 3/4" - 1"" in distance. I had a fire approx. 2inches front to back by the width of grate and the coal was about 1-1 1/2 inches deep. It burned for about a half hour reaching about 250degrees on the thermo on front of unit and would not climb any higher. I adjusted the feed a little to feed more coal and lost the fire completely. I am new to stokers and wonder if I had coal feed to fast / slow? I had a good draft up the chimney as measured with a lighter next to the barometric damper{I don't have the meter to check properly}, It was set up for my last stove by a friend that has moved away but was a plumbing contractor. Any advice or comments will surely be appreciated. I hate the thought of giving the big oil companies money for heat this year.


 
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Lightning
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Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 5:17 pm

I'm sure more will jump in to help. I've read that the burn plate with the little holes can get clogged up with coal fines causing insufficient combustion air up thru it. Have you checked this as a possible issue?

 
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Stoker6268
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Joined: Mon. Feb. 09, 2009 4:49 pm
Location: Grafton NH
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Post by Stoker6268 » Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 5:20 pm

Did you check under the grate for fines? Checked and cleaned out the holes in the grate? Too high feed rate would not put the fire out, just waste coal.

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 5:38 pm

Notice in your profile you list pea size coal. That's not going to work in your stoker, you would need rice size coal.

Having 1-1/2" deep pea is not going to ever work on a flat grate stoker. For that matter, the rice should be much thinner to work proper.

 
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BigJohn
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Posts: 66
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2008 8:37 am
Location: Mt Carmel PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Pioneer X2
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Post by BigJohn » Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 5:42 pm

I had the same problem with my sons Keystoker. The problem was he removed the grate for cleaning and didn't replace it correct. After placing the grate correct and resealing it.is working like new. Hope this helps.

 
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Lightning
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Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 6:16 pm

McGiever wrote:Notice in your profile you list pea size coal. That's not going to work in your stoker, you would need rice size coal.

Having 1-1/2" deep pea is not going to ever work on a flat grate stoker. For that matter, the rice should be much thinner to work proper.
OMG I never thought to look at that. Yep.. Pea size ain't gonna happen..

 
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Rob R.
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Location: Chazy, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr

Post by Rob R. » Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 7:35 pm

Hi Ken, welcome to the forum. Did you happen to get the manual with your stove? If not, I would call Alaska and get a copy in the mail. 570-387-0260

Assuming you are using rice coal and the stoker is setup properly, it likely just needs some adjustments.


 
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Rick 386
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Posts: 2508
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Contact:

Post by Rick 386 » Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 8:20 pm

Ken, let me add my welcome as well.

We will get this thing up and working properly. I have 1 and have been using it for years. They are good stoves.

As was mentioned you need rice coal not pea. Remove all that pea from the hopper and lets start over.

Now first off you need to make sure the air holes are open on the grate. Use a 1/8" drill bit to make sure they are fully open. Then as mentioned, make sure there are no fines under the grate. The grate can be lifted off the stoker mechanism. Sometimes it needs a hammer and block of wood to get it loose. Inspect the bottom of the grate to make sure all gaskets are in place and in good condition. Then reinstall the grate making sure it is seated properly. Now turn on the fan and make sure that air is being blown up through the grate. As you turn up the rheostat, the air flow should increase as well.

Now readjust the feed so the plate is only moving about 1/2" to 3/4". You had too much feed before.

Now get yourself a wooden paint paddle . Cut and wedge it across the grate. Place the paint paddle about 2/3 the way down the grate and over a section that has holes above it and towards the hopper end. Insert the mouse burying it under the coal so the fuse sticks out of the coal. Light the mouse and close the door. Turn on the fan. KEEP THE DOOR CLOSED !!! Otherwise you will fill the house with smoke and burning mouse odor. As the coal burns, it will burn away the paint paddle allowing the coal to move towards the end of the grate. Without the paint paddle, the feed will push everything off the grate before it is fully burned up.

Get your fire burning and wait at least 1/2 hour before making any changes. Coal takes a long time to react to changes.

When burning at maximum feed, there should be about 1" of ash at the end of the grate before it falls into the ash pan. If red coals are falling off the end of the grate you are wasting coal. When you first start it, some red coals may fall off the end but that should settle itself down within the first 30 minute. Between low burn and max should only be about 4-5 turns of the cam lobe. Make a change in the cam lobe position and wait about 1/2 hour to 45 minutes before making another change.

Any other questions, feel free to post them up and we'll get back to you.

Oh and another thing, finish filling out your profile, there may be someone close to you to help you get this thing set up properly. As Fred says, "no one is gonna come steal ya !!"

And finally, I hope you have an adequate supply of CO monitors and alarms. A manometer will assure you that you have adequate draft. It is a lot better than watching a flame from a lighter......

Rick

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 10:25 pm

Here's the manual...
kast_console.pdf

 
Ken Hallstead
New Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 4:52 pm
Location: Hallstead, Pa.
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kodiak Stoker II
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Other Heating: oil

Post by Ken Hallstead » Wed. Oct. 22, 2014 5:33 am

Wow. First of all, Great Forum here, so many helpful replies so quick.Thank you everyone. I updated my profile to say rice coal, made mistake, I am burning rice not pea. I will clean the entire stove today, I did some reading on that last night and will clean the grate as well. My grate was removed to deliver it and the gentleman told me it just sits in the opening. It does have a piece of fire rope on the front edge but noplace else so "What do I use to seal it with?" Is it the gasket cement or another product?. I will try to get it all done today and try to relight after I get it clean and sealed. I will post the results and hopefully dial it in a little after reading the manual and applying all the advice. TY.

 
Ken Hallstead
New Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 4:52 pm
Location: Hallstead, Pa.
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kodiak Stoker II
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Other Heating: oil

Post by Ken Hallstead » Wed. Oct. 22, 2014 5:45 am

I just noticed that my stove is different then those in the manual, mine is a bottom vent with the hopper on the rear of the unit. My convection fan on top does not work either. The previous owner said he used a small fan next to the stove to blow air across the top. The controller for air flow quit working for me too.

 
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Hambden Bob
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Posts: 8536
Joined: Mon. Jan. 04, 2010 10:54 am
Location: Hambden Twp. Geauga County,Ohio
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman 1998 Magnum Stoker
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Blower Model Coal Chubby 1982-Serial#0097
Coal Size/Type: Rice-A-Roni ! / Nut
Other Heating: Pro-Pain Forced Air

Post by Hambden Bob » Wed. Oct. 22, 2014 6:26 am

Welcome ! Sounds like you're now getting started in the right direction. Take this down one issue at a time,starting with correctly identifying what unit you have. A Pic's going to help. Sounds like you've got a couple of nagging issues,but as You've already learned,the Guys are willing to help You get squared away. Stay With It ! :up:

 
Ken Hallstead
New Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue. Oct. 21, 2014 4:52 pm
Location: Hallstead, Pa.
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kodiak Stoker II
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Other Heating: oil

Post by Ken Hallstead » Wed. Oct. 22, 2014 7:20 am

I will post a few pictures as soon as my kid gets home to show me how to send them with my phone, lol. I am technologically challenged. :D

 
kstills
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Joined: Tue. Jan. 18, 2011 6:41 am
Location: New Britain, PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: WL 110

Post by kstills » Wed. Oct. 22, 2014 7:26 am

BigJohn wrote:I had the same problem with my sons Keystoker. The problem was he removed the grate for cleaning and didn't replace it correct. After placing the grate correct and resealing it.is working like new. Hope this helps.
+1.

Had that problem on my stoker boiler, also.

 
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Rick 386
Member
Posts: 2508
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Contact:

Post by Rick 386 » Wed. Oct. 22, 2014 8:10 am

Ken Hallstead wrote:........ My grate was removed to deliver it and the gentleman told me it just sits in the opening. It does have a piece of fire rope on the front edge but noplace else so "What do I use to seal it with?" Is it the gasket cement or another product?. I will try to get it all done today and try to relight after I get it clean and sealed. I will post the results and hopefully dial it in a little after reading the manual and applying all the advice. TY.
Been a while but if I remember correctly, there should be gaskets on the entire bottom of the grate. The side toward the hopper is larger and usually referred to as a "strongback" gasket. With new gaskets in place, it may take some effort to seat the grate correctly. But yes it does just sit on top. Seating the grate seals the air flow to direct it out through the holes only !!

The air controller dial is a special type for controlling motors. Some have replaced them with router speed controllers with success. But DO NOT use a lamp dimmer switch. It will burn up the motors.

Rick


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