Plumbing Layout

My sketch isnt perfect so taker easy. the isolation quarter turn from supply side to return side is wide open. When call for heat or a stat the circ pump on the right runs ( did have it running all the time but found this to be wasteful, thanks guys!) Any "constructive" thoughts.

Whats this for? Baseboard , Pex in floor....

baseboard

I guess my question is more how should I run this. Should I just disconnect the main loop circ pump and close the isolation between the supply and returns and run it like a traditional supply/return header setup or keep the the main circ the way it is? Seems like I get a lot of ghost flows from the other zones when the main circ runs. Just seems like I'm wasting heat.

Do each of your circulators have built in flow checks?

Yes , taco 007 IFC's

Exactly what problem are you trying to solve? Inefficiency of the system perhaps?

Is the equalizing loop a thermo-siphon loop to keep boiler temps more uniform between top and bottom, or does it serve some other function?

I don't see how running the main circ is any more efficient than just isolating the supply and return headers and just running the zone pumps to move all the water. Running this main circ just seems like a waste of wattage reagardless of how low it may be. The equalizing loop just does exactly what you described keeps top and bottom more uniform in temp.

Something else you might consider is keeping the circulator that you are considering removing and replacing each of the individual zone circulators with zone valves. Modern zone valves (such as Taco Zone Sentry's) draw far less current. In conjunction with this also install a DPBV (differential pressure bypass valve) in the vertical leg at the extreme left of your drawing (or alternately remove or valve this leg closed and install an Alpha or a BumbleBee circulator that regulates its flow output based upon the demand (I.E., the number of zone valves that are open).

I prefer pumps over valves. I guess this all comes back to understanding the primary/secondary system. Im just curious on the benefit if any of the main circ.

Modern zone valves are approaching the reliability and longevity of circulators. I went 11 straight years with my old oil boilers 'dinosaur' zone valves and didn't have a single issue with any of them (and I have no clue how old they were when I purchased the house, though from the looks of them I suspect they may have gone clear back to 1964). During that time I did have to change out my circulator one time (but only to upgrade it to a modern circulator that replaced an old packing gland style circulator that always leaked through the packing gland).

A single Zone Sentry zone valve draws 11.4 Watts when activated. A single activated Taco 007 draws something on the order of 70-75 Watts. If saving Watts (I.E., Dollars) is one of your objectives, then zone valves could save you up to 300 Watts per hour. That's about a Dollar a day of potential savings at the electrical rate I'm paying. Enough savings to buy 8 lbs. of anthracite per day.

anthony7812 wrote:I guess my question is more how should I run this. Should I just disconnect the main loop circ pump and close the isolation between the supply and returns and run it like a traditional supply/return header setup or keep the the main circ the way it is? Seems like I get a lot of ghost flows from the other zones when the main circ runs. Just seems like I'm wasting heat.

OK now I understand the drama - yes your flow checks will be defeated , and you will have ghost flow from this plan. If your drawing is correct = it wasn't piped to provide zone isolation

now you have two choices = well three but a total makeover this time of year is silly

I would ----[1]turn off the pump and valve off the bypass in these warmer months = BUT run it all when it gets cold to help the system keep up
and [2] add a relay to isolate that pump so it only runs when any one or all the zone pumps call

but I may have missed something Coffee is still heating

so the right answer should be " ill get back to you

Kind Regards
Sting

Anthony,you might take a look at the EFM install in their warehouse,they talk about adjusting the 1/4 turn valve in that loop (i think i'm referring to the same thing as you are). Since I am running 1 circ 24/7/366 for DHW I do not have that loop. With the pre-made manifolds I used we have no ghost flows anymore. You do have close spaced tee's & equal spacing for all your circulators ?

Sting wrote:

anthony7812 wrote: = BUT run it all when it gets cold to help the system keep up
and [2] add a relay to isolate that pump so it only runs when any one or all the zone pumps call

This is how my operation is now. The 3250 provides the ability control this pump off any TT call and when the boiler fires.

opps - my nose hair must have been blocking my view and I confused other chat re 24/7 pumping

gross apologies

so then just try opt one = its free to try and has a good chance to save you some energy cost