Want to Switch From Outdoor Wood Stove to Coal Boiler

 
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windyhill4.2
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Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Fri. Oct. 31, 2014 1:38 pm

will82, Yes to needing an expansion tank,air scoop,air vent,circulators, flange valves,etc. ,boilers tend to be a pain with all the things needed to get the system to function vs hot air furnace but as Rob pointed out you can add a zone (like to the basement apartment ) & the renters can have their own tstat controlled heating too. You could also add a zone for far end of house where the hot air might not get to. You might want to use cast iron radiator to help even out the warm feeling in some room ,all possible with a boiler & can be done all at once or add a zone as time & money allows.


 
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Post by will82 » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 8:06 am

Izaharis I appricate your input but I do not need an audit. System is not failing in heat of any way. I'm just wanting to switch to coal cause I'm done with wood. I'd rather spend that time with my kids then screwing around with wood anymore as far as that goes. But to tell u a little bit. On a wood master u can not add bricks it don't work to good.. Been there tried that.

 
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Post by will82 » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 8:09 am

And how do I upload pics from my iPhone to here? I have pics of my existing system

 
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Post by will82 » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 8:17 am

Pic 1 is the air handler with exchanger in it. And 2 is the ss double wall chimney I plan to hook into

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McGiever
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Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 8:33 am

Besides these coal boilers being closed loop and pressureized systems, compared to open system of the wood boilers, Pex tube piping is used that has the oxygen barrier. If non-barrier pex remains for conversion to a pressureized system it would require additive chemical water treatments to counter-act the oxygen's corrosive effects on the steel/iron componets.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Posts: 6072
Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 9:25 am

I added the chemical to my system just for the extra protection factor.

 
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Post by will82 » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 9:47 am

Once I put coal boiler in I plan on having it a closed loop system. Pex to owb will no longer be used. Pex that came in from outside will be hooked into new system.

And I like the idea of having to zone it also. The way it's set up now to hear the basement kinda sucks. Cause when the basement stat kicks on the blower it heats the upstairs as well. Which will roast you out. Adding radiators in basement prolly be best from what I'm gathering


 
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Post by will82 » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 9:49 am

And as far as money goes. I'm not afraid to spend as long as it's worth the investment. But don't want to be spending an ungodly amount tho either. Looking at keeping it under 8-9k if possible

 
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StokerDon
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Location: PA, Southern York County!
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 10:12 am

One thing that was not discussed yet is your chimney. That photo looks like the chimney is 5" or 6" ID??? Is it insulated pipe, or the kind with an air gap? 5" or 6" is not going to work well with any of the coal stoker boilers I know of, they usually need 8" minimum. Also, you have a ranch house (I do to), your chimney may only be 10 feet tall, that will cause draft problems to. With any coal appliance you are going to need a chimney that pulls enough draft to keep the firebox evacuated. If not, you will expirance out fires and CO gas problems. These are also important considerations when designing a coal fired heating system.

-Don

 
lzaharis
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Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 10:24 am

I don't see you spending much less that what I was quoted
being $10,000 including parts, labor plus interest as the
smallest keystoker KAA-2 is going to cost you $4,300 + tax + shipping + parts.

You looking at changing the flue piping as it has to be the heavier black
22 guage stove pipe too.

Putting a KAA-2 or 4-1 direct vent unit in a well built uninsulated shed minus the wood
floor where the forest eater is using the exisiting plumbing would be the most cost
effective and more quickly installed method keeping everything out of the basement.

 
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Post by will82 » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 10:41 am

stokerdon its 8" od and 6"id and its insulated. That being said it may be back to the drawing board. Having it in the basement I don't think I can get it under 10' to get proper draft even with a new hole punched in the wall for new chimney. The double wall wont work even with a power vent? Like I said in the beginning this is all new to me going to coal. What would be another option for the Chimney solution??

I could put it outside but im trying to avoid that if possible. The owb sits on a 10x10 concrete pad with a 12x16 shed right next to it that I stack my wood in. But both are in the way as I have other things I want to do right in that area.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Posts: 6072
Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 10:51 am

will82,inside location for the boiler is best, but you will need a minimum of 15' chimney and/or above the peak + 3'. A masonry chimney is best but a good ss double wall will work too.I used the Ventiss 316L for our boiler setup.

 
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Post by will82 » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 11:25 am

the ss double that is there actually goes right through the peak of the house and at least 3' above it. It was the same chimney that was used for the oil furnace 10 years ago. Glad I didnt rip it out. just hoping I can use it for this set up now. But if I have to go bigger then so be it. There is another chimney that is mason with a flue that was once used for a wood stove but if I put the boiler where that is, it would screw my whole set up of my little work shop.

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 11:31 am

Axeman Anderson 130 uses a 5" stove pipe. :)

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 11:35 am

lzaharis wrote:I don't see you spending much less that what I was quoted
being $10,000 including parts, labor plus interest as the
smallest keystoker KAA-2 is going to cost you $4,300 + tax + shipping + parts.

You looking at changing the flue piping as it has to be the heavier black
22 guage stove pipe too.

Putting a KAA-2 or 4-1 direct vent unit in a well built uninsulated shed minus the wood
floor where the forest eater is using the exisiting plumbing would be the most cost
effective and more quickly installed method keeping everything out of the basement.
Not sure why you are not getting it.???

He wants this in his basement...so please get over it.


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