Likely the top cover plate, and as you pointed out it's pivot hook hole.Pancho wrote:It hasn't done it again since but that would be my guess. I was just impressed it whistled with both the primaries and secondaries opened.Sunny Boy wrote:May have been the top cover plate ?
The other guess I had was where the finial pivot pin goes through the top casting?.
Paul, that's the first thing I did when I fired it up on Charcoal back in July....I went around it with one of those smoldering stinky sticks women like. It was tight enough not to draw the smoke anywhere on the stove. Maybe the wind gust that caused the whistle was just a doozer?. It has NEVER whistled prior to this and it is particularly windy today.When it's running with a well burning bed of coals, the check damper is closed, MPD fully open, primary open enough to keep a strong fire going, secondary fully closed. In other words, you want a strong draft on the stove from the top of the firepot level on up and out to the stack.
See if it whistles when you put it in and out of direct draft. You can listen better by using a piece of garden hose, or automotive heater hose held up to one ear. Pass the other end of the hose along seams, door openings, etc. The noise will only get loud as the end of the hose passes over where the leak is.
If you can't make it whistle again, using a piece of smoldering cotton string, hold it about a 1/4 - 1/2 inch from the stove, as you pass it over every seam, joint, and connection. See if the smoke gets drawn in anywhere other than the edges of doors, top cover plate, back pipe cover plate. If it does, mark it with caulk and keep going. After the test, you can try working some stove caulk into any areas that you find a leak.
Paul
When Wilson fired up my #6 as a demo, he had it filled with scape papers, box board, and kindling wood. With all that rapidly burning stuff in it, it had a very slight whistle from near the top. That went away immediately when he put it into indirect mode.
Paul