Lubricating Under Carpet/Slider Plate on Pocono?
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Hello All,
I have taken apart and hosed off all the parts of my Pocono top (for the moment ) vent .
There is some erosion of the cast iron burn plate in the location where the carpet plate slides back and forth. This is to be expected with steel against iron movement at these temperature.
Has anyone found a suitable lubricant to put between the carpet or slider plate (the piece of sheet metal moved back and forth by the stoker motor) and the cast iron burn plate? Exotic choices are fine.
What about lubricants that did not work out, and why was that?
My goal is to reduce the load on the stoker motor as much as possible as well as to reduce wear on the burn plate. I know that if I take care of this furnace it will take care of me.
Still giddy from getting it.
All advice and comment appreciated as always,
Regards,
404
I have taken apart and hosed off all the parts of my Pocono top (for the moment ) vent .
There is some erosion of the cast iron burn plate in the location where the carpet plate slides back and forth. This is to be expected with steel against iron movement at these temperature.
Has anyone found a suitable lubricant to put between the carpet or slider plate (the piece of sheet metal moved back and forth by the stoker motor) and the cast iron burn plate? Exotic choices are fine.
What about lubricants that did not work out, and why was that?
My goal is to reduce the load on the stoker motor as much as possible as well as to reduce wear on the burn plate. I know that if I take care of this furnace it will take care of me.
Still giddy from getting it.
All advice and comment appreciated as always,
Regards,
404
- McGiever
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
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No lube...forgetaboutit.
Coal dust is your lube.
Sometimes it helps to remove the carpet and us a hammer to take out a little bow in the middle.
When it gets bowed you'll get more coal dust lube than you want under there.
Coal dust is your lube.
Sometimes it helps to remove the carpet and us a hammer to take out a little bow in the middle.
When it gets bowed you'll get more coal dust lube than you want under there.
- SMITTY
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Yeah, in an application like that, any kind of grease, or even oil, would attract so much crap that it would end up doing the OPPOSITE of what you want it to do.
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But is that attracted stuff crap or is it life giving carbon based semi solid lubricant?SMITTY wrote:Yeah, in an application like that, any kind of grease, or even oil, would attract so much crap that it would end up doing the OPPOSITE of what you want it to do.
Under the current conditions the cast iron burn plate is clearly being worn away under the carpet. Looks like bare metal on bare metal to me.
What I want to do is stop the erosion of the cast iron.
Regards,
404
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As a former machinist......
If the edge of the carpet plate is sharp the only way to stop the wear on the cast iron is to blunt the edge with a file. In other words break the corner or chamfer it slightly. I would not make too big an angle on it, just enough so it does not act as a cutting edge.
Dan.
If the edge of the carpet plate is sharp the only way to stop the wear on the cast iron is to blunt the edge with a file. In other words break the corner or chamfer it slightly. I would not make too big an angle on it, just enough so it does not act as a cutting edge.
Dan.
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- Location: N/W Pa. Meadville, Pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Sears circulator air tight stove.
- Other Heating: Crown 115,000 BTU oil fired boiler(house) Weil Mclain 150,000BTU oil fired boiler(Shop)
As a former machinist......
If the edge of the carpet plate is sharp the only way to stop the wear on the cast iron is to blunt the edge with a file. In other words break the corner or chamfer it slightly. I would not make too big an angle on it, just enough so it does not act as a cutting edge.
Dan.
If the edge of the carpet plate is sharp the only way to stop the wear on the cast iron is to blunt the edge with a file. In other words break the corner or chamfer it slightly. I would not make too big an angle on it, just enough so it does not act as a cutting edge.
Dan.
- EarthWindandFire
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I switched from rice sized coal to buck size because buck is cleaner and has less fines. I'm hoping the buck will cut down on blocked air holes in the grate and very small pieces that I found under the carpet.
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Lu47Dan and EarthWindandFire, Thank you for the information. I will break the sharp edge.
Is there unburned coal left in the centers of the Buck or is that a non issue? I recall reading that someone was having trouble with it.
Regards,
404
Is there unburned coal left in the centers of the Buck or is that a non issue? I recall reading that someone was having trouble with it.
Regards,
404
- Uglysquirrel
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Wood appreciate a report how this works out and possible feed rate differences due larger particle size and time to turn to ash (??)EarthWindandFire wrote:I switched from rice sized coal to buck size because buck is cleaner and has less fines. I'm hoping the buck will cut down on blocked air holes in the grate and very small pieces that I found under the carpet.
Ug
- Uglysquirrel
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Well...... I just learned something.....the plate can bow, eh?McGiever wrote: Sometimes it helps to remove the carpet and us a hammer to take out a little bow in the middle.
- McGiever
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- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Well, yes, from side to side it can crown a little...front to back is not a problem.
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10128
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
If you are bent on lube for this...then use powdered graphite, commonly use in lock cylinders, as graphite can easily handle the heat.404 wrote:Any lubrication disaster stories? Who has tried it and had a spectacular failure.
Regards,
404
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Well yes I am bent, and I enjoy it. As far as the stove goes I understand the theory of why not to lube it, but sometimes theory and practice are different. Thanks for the information about the graphite.McGiever wrote:If you are bent on lube for this...then use powdered graphite, commonly use in lock cylinders, as graphite can easily handle the heat.404 wrote:Any lubrication disaster stories? Who has tried it and had a spectacular failure.
Regards,
404
Regards,
404