Stoker6268 wrote:Just wonderin'. Sounds like a lot close the ash vent tight and only use the therm flap. Question- where does the stove get enough air to maintaine fire if door vents completely closed and therm flap not calling for heat and is closed? Air leaks in stove? Around the shaker handle?
Oh the Heat!
- freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30300
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
One of the culprits is where the shaker rod comes through the stove body, personally, I've drill a couple 5/16 holes in the thermo flap--for serious cold--I put aluminum tape over them when running normal. Also, that flap closed is NOT air tight & was designed that way, this is the reason the 50-93 can be idled down so low with everything closed up. Again, it's all individual & needs to be played with:)
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- Member
- Posts: 528
- Joined: Sat. Jul. 06, 2013 6:06 pm
- Location: Northeastern Ct.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: Mostly nut, some pea
With the daytime temps we are seeing now (low to mid 40's) you should have no issues running the Hitzer with the bi-metal controlled flap only. I've got 2 layers of fiberglass insulation sealing the gap around the shaker handle so no air getting in there. Tightened up the nut on the sliding ash door vent when I installed the hopper late last week. Running nicely with the flap control ever since. Showing 325°-375° on the upper front & keeping the house in the low 70's.
I'm using a barometric damper & an MPD. Low draft is definitely not an issue here!!
I'm using a barometric damper & an MPD. Low draft is definitely not an issue here!!