successfully burning anthracite coal in a clayton furnace

I have the fan limit switch set to come on at 135 degrees and off at 100 degrees. The fan limit switch that comes with the Clayton's doesn't have a switch on it to run full time circulation blower. Honeywell does make one though. If you aren't replacing yours, you can always install a manual switch to make it run all the time.

on the clayton 1600, do the grates come out as on piece or do you have to remove them each seperatly?

There is a shaker bar made out of thick steel which bolts five cast iron shaker grates together.It connects using 7/16 bolts and nuts. You'll notice I've updated the factory set up slightly using two nuts on each bolt to prevent them from coming loose and falling into the ash pan.This how they rock back and forth.This is where the shaker handle bolts to the shaker bar. Once again double nutted to prevent it from coming loose.This is the cast iron cradle the shaker grates and the firebrick rest on.

I hope this will help. DOUG

After I cleaned my furnace out yesterday, I noticed the bolts where loose. All I have to do is remove the shaker handle, and lift the grates out, Correct?

Yes, that is correct. I'd seriously consider double nutting all the bolts so you don't have to worry about them coming loose.

There is a type of lock nut made that I have used that is called a deformed thread nut the nut is squeezed at the top edge of it to deform threads and it will hold up very well to high heat I used to purchase them for large oven with gas catylist heaters. Oven was 12 foot x 12 foot and had a large frame that would run in and out on a large carriage, we had shoulder bolts that had to be loose enough to allow frames to hinge deformed nut work very well for that application I would assume they would work well for a stove as well.

Good idea, jimbo.

hey, kinda going off the subject, but last night was havin quite a few beers at my buds house, and found out his cousin works for a coke plant! says he is a boss, manager, or supervisor or somethin like that, forget which he was like i said busch beer was involved . he said i might be able to buy some through them and get 5 ton on my dump trailer, or maybe even 5 ton would come up "missing." question is, would coke burn in my hotblast 1557 ya think?
john

Yes. I don't see why it wouldn't. It's porosity makes it respond more quickly to changes in draft than anthracite and it needs more attention between firings.

wow finaly found the site with answers
have my 1800 added inline with oil burner. so i have both flues in same masonary chimmney since only one or other burns at one time. only have a 6 in. baro damper in oil burner flue, with .04 measurment. fire burns good with ash door draft open althe way. keeps house 72, in morning 69, then starts the problem stoking it back up for the day. but reading here i need to be more agressive with shakers. question is, is .04 enough draft, or should i have an 8 in baro damper? any input
will be greatly appreciated. been burning wood for 5yrs, triing to switch over.

The oil burner flue should be connected above the solid fuel appliance in a common chimney. There are two reasons for this. One is to keep the solid fuel heater's potentially hotter stovepipe farther away from the ceiling. Two, is that if creosote and ashes accumulate in the bottom of the chimney, the solid fuel unit stovepipe would be blocked first. A blockage in the solid fuel appliance is mostly an annoyance, not a safety hazard. The fire would be lazy or go out. The blockage of a gas or oil appliance is a serious hazard. It will try to vent into the house CO gases, which are deadly. You could either leave it as is, since it sounds like it's performing satisfactory, or you could install one barometric draft regulator into the solid fuel unit also.

In the case you have both flues connected with a T or Y fitting before they reach the chimney, you still have the option of installing one large barometric draft regulator before the chimney after the connection of the two appliances, or two the stovepipe flue sizes in each appliances flue before the joining connection.

As for .04 inches being too low, that is is low as I'd go for a solid fuel unit. The higher the setting the hotter the solid fuel unit will fire. I would not go above .08 inches. With one barometric draft regulator set too high, performance of your oil burner maybe more inefficient do to more heat going up the chimney. Check out the oil burners draft recommendations to be sure. If it's working good for you now and your happy with the performance of each unit, I'd leave it alone. If your not, you have some options to play with. DOUG

I read that a few people have their manometers installed permantely on thier flue pipes. I was wondering what kind of mano. you are using? The ones that I have seen around here have a rubber hose (which would need to be replaced with a 1/4" copper line)and semm like they need to sit on the furnace. I borrowed one from a plumber friend to set my draft but would like to have on installed so i can check my draft when I want to



thanks


chris

I'm using a Draft Rite Pocket Gauge Grainger part # 6T163. I know a few guys on this forum make reference to a Dwyer Manometer Grainger part # 2T650. http://www.grainger.com.

hey thanks doug,
i got a hold of a more dependable monometer, got to have it to monitor draft as things heated up, as the snow changed to rain, the wind picked up, the whole works. getting from a 5.5 toa 7.5 depending on all those variables. i like some ones sugjestion of poking from the bottom. that works great. but laying on the floor to get it done not going to work long, going to try adjusting the fire brick. next time it's out. but been going strong for 4 days 3 nites 68 to 74 degrees. cant complain little work for learning but NOT BURNING OIL!!! well i haven't been for 4 years, but coal is alot less work than wood. thanks for all who have input at this site.

barnman:

I'm glad to see you got it burning good. Also the draft numbers are right on target. As for poking from under he grates, I've never tried it. I use a different technique. This is the poker I had made. I usually gently insert it on an angle through the coal bed to the grates and wiggle it a little, being careful not to stir the coal. Repeating it front, middle, and rear of the bed. It really drops the coal bed a few inches. I then shake until I see a few live coals drop into the ash pan. Then I'm ready to recharge it with fresh coal. I noticed that when the coal is slightly damp, it catches faster. It's probably from the extra oxygen in the water that came from the damp coal. I'm not suggesting spraying down the coal. I's just something I've observed.

If you get a chance to adjust your firebricks, Take some pictures and post them with a report. I haven't done that yet. I want to add another row of firebricks above the ones already there, to make the bed even deeper. I think that will allow for a nicer, longer burn. I doubt I'll get to it this heating season. I still have to think how to support the extra brick. The Clayton's have a bent shape above the firebrick, so a little ingenuity is going to have to take place, in order for the extra firebricks to stay put.

Thanks for the update. DOUG