Successfully Burning Anthracite Coal in a Clayton Furnace

 
Dudleymass
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Post by Dudleymass » Sat. Jan. 26, 2013 8:14 pm

Dear Coal Crazy, I have an ashley 1602R. I'm having ahard time with it. When I read the manual, it said nut, not stove. So I'm using nut. I'm also not sure how much to pile on at night. and i'm not getting nearly the amount of heat I get when I burn wood in it. What am I doing wrong ?


 
Stngllhm
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Post by Stngllhm » Mon. Jan. 28, 2013 10:45 pm

When you put coal in it don't be afraid to fill it up to the top of the fire bricks and yes I know that's a lot of coal but if you don't you won't get the heat your looking for. You will need to add the coal slowly. Put a layer in and let it catch before you add more.

 
Xwoodburner
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Post by Xwoodburner » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 4:49 pm

I just added A barometric damper to my coal stove and it is a must have in my opinion
my next question is where to set the ash pan damper?
I noticed the draft goes up a bit wen I give it more air.......even with a baro (the baro is maxed, so that may be why)

I noticed that my combustion analyzer does have a setting for coal. Has anyone tried this
if anyone is familiar with the correct numbers I should have for oxy and co, is there any other values I should check? please feel free to chime in
I would love to respark this topic
thanks
joe

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 5:35 pm

What is a combustion analyzer? Could you post a pic of it and tell what it does? Please :D

 
Xwoodburner
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Post by Xwoodburner » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 5:43 pm

its used to set up combustion hvac equipment
typically oil and gas furnaces

I recently noticed it has settings for wood and coal
I took readings for carbonmonoxide levels and oxygen as well
typically this will tell how the unit is performing

if I can get rough estimates of parameters, I should be able to maximize burntimes, and give valueable feedback
to all

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 6:08 pm

Yes, please post the numbers you are getting 8-)

 
Xwoodburner
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Post by Xwoodburner » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 6:28 pm

co 5336 seems high?
o2 8.9
co2 9.5
flue gas temp 477

this was at.045 draft
mid burn
1 1/2 turns open on ash pan door damper


 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 7:05 pm

I believe Co2 for coal can go to about 20 for perfect combustion.

The low co2 reading explains the high co. Incomplete combustion.

Poor fire box shape for air distribution and damped down fire.

 
Xwoodburner
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Post by Xwoodburner » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 7:23 pm

Should I open the air?
Or raise the draft?
Or both

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 7:36 pm

Xwoodburner wrote:Should I open the air?
Or raise the draft?
Or both
A brisk fire will give the highest co2 and lowest co. More air and draft if necessary. Might be too warm now to try.

 
Xwoodburner
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Post by Xwoodburner » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 7:43 pm

Anyone know what acceptable levels of co in the flue gas are?
Any way to know how much efficiency is wasted by leaving it run that way?
If I give it more draft I'll roast my self out......
Even once it gets cold out

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 8:17 pm

Xwoodburner wrote:co 5336 seems high?
o2 8.9
co2 9.5
flue gas temp 477

this was at.045 draft
mid burn
1 1/2 turns open on ash pan door damper
The co 5336... Is that parts per million??
o2 and co2 numbers... are they percentages?

Yes your CO will be high when the combustion air is choked down.. It has to be, otherwise you would cook yourself out of the house.

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 8:19 pm

Smoke is unburned carbon in wood stoves.

CO is unburned gas in coal stoves and coal stoves are notorious for CO production which happens when a stove is damped down or when the air distribution through the coal bed is uneven. A round insulated fire pot is best for air distribution and maintaining the high heat necessary to burn the gas. A good fire will have blue flames all the time, not just when initial volatiles are released. CO occurs all the time because air distribution is never perfect and some parts of the fire starve for air and that blue flame is CO burning in a mature fire.

Stokers burn smaller amounts with a steady feed so have less of a problem consuming CO just as wood pellet stoves have an easier time burning without smoke.

No matter what the fuel, to burn efficiently means mixing the air evenly and maintaining the heat necessary for good combustion. There is no acceptable figure, there are just degrees of unacceptability as stove are operated over such wide outputs. Because it does not smoke it is accepted but combustion efficiency will vary just as much as varying output, just like wood.

 
Xwoodburner
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Post by Xwoodburner » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 8:32 pm

The 5000 ppm co
Just seemed too high
Compared to the oil and gas I'm used to .....
Thanks for all the help

 
Xwoodburner
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Post by Xwoodburner » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 8:35 pm

What kind of burn times are you guys getting on the Clayton or hot blasts?
I've been getting 12 plus burns when I've been reloading

I'm wondering if it'll go longer. Fire still burning perfect
Still have draft I think I'm gonna let her burn a while

My fire never really looks any different when I refuel
I just do it from habit
Should it burn down ?


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