coalcrazy wrote:i noticed looking through the posts i saw controversy over the use of baro. dampers vs. man. damps. i will share my experiences with both. the man. damp.,was ok at first but as nights got colder my draft would increase drastically (w/ damper vertical allowing a factory set amount of air through 2 quarter size holes)making the fire burn too hot thus making my house at 3am hot as heck! not to mention a pile of ash and weak fire around 5am, not good, i have to go to work and don't have the time to revive a coal fire. this happened many times until i saw in my owners manual,barometric damper stongly recomended! recomended didn't mean mandatory to me at the time of installation. so i finally went to my local stove shop and the people there were very knowledgable and i bought one at 90.00 bucks(the good one)and borrow a draft meter from the shop and installed the next day w/ the proper settings. BY FAR THE BEST THING I EVER DID TO MY FURNACE!!!!!
This was an interesting case and read.
2 quarter sized holes on intake draft side, is actually about 8x more draft my Harman I needs to burn, at one constant rate all year long. That is a LOT of draft for any stove ! It only makes sense the unit would need a baro or something to reduce the draft on the chimney pipe side, and that it was overfiring.
Why not just reduce the size of the 2 quarter sized holes, down to less than the size of 1 dime ? My stove runs all year on .300" square inch of draft intake setting. I measured it precisely with mechanics feeler gauges and did the calculation for area.
I'm a firm believer most over-drafting situations can be cured by sealing up the stove and cutting the the intake draft back. The more reports like this I hear, it also appears this is overlooked, and the fix then becomes choke down the stovepipe side to adjust the draft down lower.
The reason the stove was weak in the morning at 5 AM was, it had burned all its fuel and there was barely enough left to hold a fire. That's a common problem with a stove with too much intake draft, or leaks in the doors, glass, etc. They overfire, get too hot, then try to go out early.
We just finished tuning up an Iron House Newcastle stove, that did the same thing as yours. It would burn 2x the amount of coal my Harman burns daily, with the Newcastle draft intake CLOSED.
The doors and glass were leaking, but more importantly, and this is often overlooked- the raking rod linkage assembly, where it went through the right side of the stove, was leaking a MASSIVE amount of air. I had someone shine a flashlight there while I looked inside, and could not believe how big the hole was. Made a small gasket for it, and re-assembled the raker, and now it idles right down to a simmer. It is heating the basement and first floor as I key this, about 2000 square feet, with enough residual heat for the 2nd floor attic. We only paid $300 for the stove and another $100 or so for pipes, seals.
The critical issue is, it does not need or use any type of stovepipe damper. No baro or MPD whatsoever. Nothing but a gentle curved 90 degree stovepipe, into the masonry chimney flue, where it then goes another 90 degree vertically up the flue. The stove has a top outlet.
The next mod will be, extend the inside baffle. It's currently 6" tall. Yesterday I removed the baffle, measured the airspace over it while inside the stove, and it can be 8.5" tall and still have a 2" gap between the baffle and roof of the stove. That will also improve efficiency and heat output.
The stove can't and won't run away with overdraft, if the intake side is airtight. There's nowhere for the air to get in, other than the draft controls. If they are precise and the stove sealed, it will have a high degree of control.
The only place I could see possibly using a baro damper, would be on a stoker type boiler that also perhaps does the hot water for the home, that is fully automatic and on a thermostat. Then for the sake of being a true t-stat controlled system, and hands-off turnkey operation, a baro may be required.
A baro on a hand fired just makes no sense to me, because the stove is being tended 2-3 times a day anyway. You're right there. With a stoker type boiler, it may be tended less often. IMHO the first fix would be, seal up the stove front end- but there's more than one way to skin a cat, glad you got it going right.