Successfully Burning Anthracite Coal in a Clayton Furnace
- Lightning
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
Ok, looks good partner! It's very important those brass fittings are absolutely air tight. You have the low side tube running to the pipe? And the other tube, is it just open to the room air? You "zeroed" (calibrated) the gauge after leveling it, then hooked up the tubes? I'm just trying to make sure we are seeing an accurate reading
Does the barometric door open very much or very often? And the flue pipe is sealed to the chimney?
Does the barometric door open very much or very often? And the flue pipe is sealed to the chimney?
- Lightning
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- Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
That concerns me. It's showing the flue pipe has positive pressure if you calibrated it properly. We don't want positive pressure there. You have carbon monoxide detectors??
- Sunny Boy
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- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Opps ! It should be low side to pipe. High side open to room air. If you look at how the back side of the gauge is molded, the low side nipple leads to the upper end of the red liquid column. Hooked up only at the low side will move the liquid up in the gauge so you can see a reading better by using what would otherwise be the positive scale.F.N.G wrote:The barometric door never opens the chimney is sealed and the manometer is hooked on the high side to the flue pipe and the low side to open air
Unplug them from the gauge, recheck level and then zero, and swap the pipe line to the low side.
Paul
Last edited by Sunny Boy on Sat. Dec. 21, 2013 8:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Lightning
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 14652
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
Please listen carefully. I need you to pull off both the tubes at the manometer and connect the low side to the pipe. Then take another picture of it and post it as soon as you can.
- Sunny Boy
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- Posts: 25517
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Sorry Lee, didn't know you were here. You got it.
Paul
Paul
Last edited by Sunny Boy on Sat. Dec. 21, 2013 8:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25517
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Will do.Lightning wrote:I'm gonna be unavailable for the next couple hours. Please help him if he posts again.
Paul
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25517
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Phew ! Was beginning to get worried. Thought maybe we'd lost ya to flue gas backing up !F.N.G wrote:Okay reset everything switch the hoses and took a picture now it's saying .01 and right now the ash door is open
Ok, now that mano is showing that you have draft. Not alot, but some is better than none.
Just to double check, you put the red line at the zero mark using the lower dial, with the hose disconnected, right?
Ash door open - is the manual pipe damper open, and the baro closed also ? If so, that seems low to me, but Lee knows the what and when of that stove.
Oh Lee, where are ya ?
Paul
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You are running on the edge of not enough draft. Is there anything else connected to that chimney? Did you check that any cleanout door to the chimney is closed and not leaking?
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The barometric dampers closed the manual dampers open the ash doors open and yes my oil burner is also on that chimney and I also have carbon monoxide detectors on all three floors so I should know to get out of the house if they go off
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- Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Check that the barometric damper for the oil burner is closed. The oil burner will also act to leak air through its air inlet.
Because you have such weak draft is why you have to leave the ash door open to get any heat, and then when the stove temperature gets hot enough you have too much air and the stove overheats.
You did not mention checking chimney clean out door.
You have to find the reason for the low draft.
Yes the warm temperature does hurt but the chimney should still pull .03 at least.
Because you have such weak draft is why you have to leave the ash door open to get any heat, and then when the stove temperature gets hot enough you have too much air and the stove overheats.
You did not mention checking chimney clean out door.
You have to find the reason for the low draft.
Yes the warm temperature does hurt but the chimney should still pull .03 at least.