Successfully Burning Anthracite Coal in a Clayton Furnace

The high tube is just hanging out

My high side is just kinda laying over the top of my return pipes. I moved it around to different places and it didn't seem to matter

Didn't find anything I was doing wrong lightning

No sir.. looks good! What damper do you have? A manual?

No. Barometric

Some of the tips in this thread help a lot with burning bituminous coal in a Clayton. The biggest thing on mine was too much 'over the fire' air. I found this out purely by accident.

My Clayton burned well at the front, but never burned well towards the back. Until the front heat shield cracked and the local welding shop cut a stainless plate to slide into the heat shield to protect my stove. After I reinstalled this 'temporary fix' (which blocked the over the fire air in the front), my furnace started burning the entire bed of coal. which almost doubled the heat output from my furnace. I still get plenty of over the fire air through the rear shield, which isn't blocked off.

I hope this little tip helps anyone else that is having burn problems in the Clayton or Hotblast.

Just wanted to thank every that help me last year . I'm lighting coal for the first time this year so I hope I got all the bugs out but thanks again happy burning

Post here :

Successfully Burning Anthracite Coal in a Clayton Furnace

I have been searching for the proper size & type bolts I will need to replace the current ones that are connected to my Clayton 1600 wood/coal burner - til I came across this post here quoted above. I have taken mine out but still unsure of what size bolts that I need to get to replace on the shaker sections to the shaker bar, at the moment the grates are very loose & just kinda flips all over the place & hangs the shaker bar. Which can end up snapping the pivot part of the shaker ( already had that to happen! ) but fixed that until I discovered this parts. & I like the idea of the double nutting the shaker sections to the bar for extra security on them coming lose,

So basically what I am asking is for someone to let me the know the proper size bolts including nuts & type of heat type? Maybe a link to the OEM replacement parts?

Joshua wrote:Post here :

Successfully Burning Anthracite Coal in a Clayton Furnace

I have been searching for the proper size & type bolts I will need to replace the current ones that are connected to my Clayton 1600 wood/coal burner - til I came across this post here quoted above. I have taken mine out but still unsure of what size bolts that I need to get to replace on the shaker sections to the shaker bar, at the moment the grates are very loose & just kinda flips all over the place & hangs the shaker bar. Which can end up snapping the pivot part of the shaker ( already had that to happen! ) but fixed that until I discovered this parts. & I like the idea of the double nutting the shaker sections to the bar for extra security on them coming lose,

So basically what I am asking is for someone to let me the know the proper size bolts including nuts & type of heat type? Maybe a link to the OEM replacement parts? :

I just went to the local hardware store and purchased 1/4 inch bolts (that's the actual size), 7/16ths is the size wrench or socket that fits the nuts. I used soft bolts, because hardened bolts will wear out the holes in the grates quicker.

Another tip, don't tighten the nuts too much, or it will lock up the grates and they won't turn properly........let some play in there.

OEM replacement parts can be had here: http://discountstoveparts.com/index.php?route=pro ... =1&model=1

But you can buy 20 bolts from the hardware store for what it will cost for one here.

I am back again, I took the advise & went purchased some bolts & nuts & I fixed my grates & tightened them w/ double nuts. Now the issue here that has occurred more times then I can count the bolts keep working lose & fall off in the ash pan I would have to take the grates out again & then I tried lock washers & still double nutting it & yet still again it comes right back off either working lose or bolt itself keeps failing completely & breaking.

I am not sure if I am using the proper bolts that is why I am here, I am using my local hardware store they tell me they are not heat resistant but said they would last awhile etc. So now tonight it breaks again I am not sure what else to do & in hopes that someone maybe w/ the same issue or someone that has had this very issue may chime in & give me some ideas on what I could do or what maybe I am doing wrong?

Joshua, The bolts I use are 1 1/4 inch long. Use 2 nuts on each bolt, and tighten the nuts against each other locking them in place. Washers are not needed or recommended.

Do not tighten the nut against the grate and the rod, there must be play there so the grates can move. Otherwise the bolts will break.

To double nut a bolt, you spin the first nut on hand tight. Spin the second nut against it. Using TWO wrenches hold the top nut and tighten the bottom nut against the top nut. Some times you can turn them both trying to loosen that top one and tighten the bottom one. That will jam them against each other and trust me if you get them tight enough they will not loosen up again.

Unless your using some really c rappy material in the bolts they shouldn't break. More likely they are breaking from stress if your tightneing them down against the grates.

Hi Joshua, I had the same trouble in a stove, box stove, with my grate bar breaking bolts or the nuts coming off. I went to shoulder bolts I feel they have a little more resistance due to having more steel on them. Maybe your bolts are under size and allow too much play, maybe a metric size would fit better and still have some play.

I put some furnace cement on the remaining thread after the double nut lock...peace of mind at first but going on 2 yrs without any trouble.

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving.

MA