Successfully Burning Anthracite Coal in a Clayton Furnace

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 8:44 pm

Lightning wrote:
Joshua wrote:so can tell me what the advantage's of 'blocking off air flow' would this cause any issues w/ the furnace or risk of causing harm?

Anthracite needs to have its primary and secondary air controlled. Primary air is the air that comes in under the grates and feeds the fire from underneath. Secondary air comes in over the fire and burns the gases that get baked out of the coal. The way these multi fuel appliances are set up, they allow primary air to become secondary air by going around the fuel bed between the liner and the fire box wall. This works well for bituminous coal and wood, but not so good for anthracite. Anthracite needs its primary air to only come up thru the grates for a steady burn.

By blocking this air passage primary air has no choice but to come up thru the fuel bed. This allows for a much more efficient usage of oxygen coming into the furnace. I would advise blocking the passages up high on the liners by using fiberglass insulation described in the thread you read. This way, the primary air can still have some cooling effect on the liners by circulating between the liner and firebox wall from underneath, but at the same time the air can't continue it's route up thru and become secondary air. This helps protect the liners from over heating.

I just figured since you had all the innards out of the stove, this would be a good opportunity to pursue it. It will save you from doing it later when other issues crop up like, short burn times, unsteady heat output and dead fires before using half the fuel load. You may have limited success without blocking the air bypasses but, blocking them makes the stove much more forgiving and efficient.

If he does this on the Clayton 1600, he will have zero over the fire air.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 8:54 pm

Here is a picture of the Clayton 1600:

.JPG | 8.4KB | clayton.jpg

the top knob you see is directly in line with the holes in this liner:

.JPG | 27.2KB | liner.jpg

and the bottom of that liner is open to the ashpan area. It is a large opening.

If it's blocked with insualtion at the top, primary air will go thru the holes in the liner as over the fire air. The only way to stop it is with the metal plate I mentioned.

Joshua · Post by **Joshua** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:00 pm

I don't think I am burning anthracite coal, I am from West Virginia I think I am burning a soft type coal which would be considered bituminous & to know if its bituminous is from the soot it gives - so would you agree that is the type of coal I am burning - I have time to time burned wood as well so it wouldn't be advised to close those bypasses off correct?

& yes that image is my furnace - also I have the stoker blower as well on the front which helps out to make the fire hotter.

Post by **Lightning** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:02 pm

Ah, good point Don. Why didn't they put that spinner on the load door, geez.... lol

So yeah, on your model furnace, block the passages at the bottom like Don said. Then you will have independent control of primary and secondary air

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:03 pm

Lightning wrote:Ah, good point Don. Why didn't they put that spinner on the load door, geez.... lol

I dunno, but I wish they would have.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:04 pm

Joshua wrote:I don't think I am burning anthracite coal, I am from West Virginia I think I am burning a soft type coal which would be considered bituminous & to know if its bituminous is from the soot it gives - so would you agree that is the type of coal I am burning - I have time to time burned wood as well so it wouldn't be advised to close those bypasses off correct?

& yes that image is my furnace - also I have the stoker blower as well on the front which helps out to make the fire hotter.

Don't block any passages, it isn't necessary in your case. Unless you are buying coal in bags, that has Anthracite printed on it, you have bituminous coal.

Post by **Lightning** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:10 pm

Yep sorry for the confusion. I assumed he was using anthracite since he posted on an ant thread. No problem, carry on...

Joshua · Post by **Joshua** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:13 pm

I have bituminous coal 99% sure of that. Now got another question I have a baffle rod that hooks to my damper - to get a better burn should this be nearly closed or fully opened as for the ash pan door. Any recommendations for me regarding this; to help not burn coal up so fast.

Also I notice my coal is cindering up alot; like it gets really hot at one point & then cools down - I blamed this solely on ash build up on the bottom & where my shaker handle & grates are not working 100% properly. which is why I think my handle broke & I am finding new ways to operate this furnace.

Joshua · Post by **Joshua** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:14 pm

Lightning wrote:Yep sorry for the confusion. I assumed he was using anthracite since he posted on an ant thread. No problem, carry on...

Yeah I am sorry I posted on this thread; but after seeing one of the poster was working on the grates etc... I was actually thinking "hey this is what I am trying to achieve" so again I apologize for this but hey glad you guys helped me stead of saying "wrong thread" lol

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:15 pm

Lightning wrote:Yep sorry for the confusion. I assumed he was using anthracite since he posted on an ant thread. No problem, carry on...

I assumed he was also.

Maybe Joshua could fill out his profile with a location and type of coal. That would save a lot of confusion.

Joshua · Post by **Joshua** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:16 pm

SWPaDon wrote:
Lightning wrote:Yep sorry for the confusion. I assumed he was using anthracite since he posted on an ant thread. No problem, carry on...
I assumed he was also.

Maybe Joshua could fill out his profile with a location and type of coal. That would save a lot of confusion.

I will do this right away.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:25 pm

Thank you for updating your profile. Now onto this:

Joshua wrote:I have bituminous coal 99% sure of that. Now got another question I have a baffle rod that hooks to my damper - to get a better burn should this be nearly closed or fully opened as for the ash pan door. Any recommendations for me regarding this; to help not burn coal up so fast.

Also I notice my coal is cindering up alot; like it gets really hot at one point & then cools down - I blamed this solely on ash build up on the bottom & where my shaker handle & grates are not working 100% properly. which is why I think my handle broke & I am finding new ways to operate this furnace.

If you mean the rod at the top of the picture I posted of the furnace. If the rod is pulled out, your smoke and heat goes straight up the chimney. If you push it in, the heat and smoke travel to the front of the furnace, around the baffle then goes to the back of the stove and out the flue.

Look inside your furnace, then look up, you will see the row of firebrick up there. The rod has a large metal plate on the end of it for blocking the flow at one hole or the other.

Joshua · Post by **Joshua** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:35 pm

SWPaDon wrote:Thank you for updating your profile. Now onto this:

Joshua wrote:I have bituminous coal 99% sure of that. Now got another question I have a baffle rod that hooks to my damper - to get a better burn should this be nearly closed or fully opened as for the ash pan door. Any recommendations for me regarding this; to help not burn coal up so fast.

Also I notice my coal is cindering up alot; like it gets really hot at one point & then cools down - I blamed this solely on ash build up on the bottom & where my shaker handle & grates are not working 100% properly. which is why I think my handle broke & I am finding new ways to operate this furnace.
If you mean the rod at the top of the picture I posted of the furnace. If the rod is pulled out, your smoke and heat goes straight up the chimney. If you push it in, the heat and smoke travel to the front of the furnace, around the baffle then goes to the back of the stove and out the flue.

Look inside your furnace, then look up, you will see the row of firebrick up there. The rod has a large metal plate on the end of it for blocking the flow at one hole or the other.

Yeah the handle at the main top, I have always left it fully opened so I am guessing this has been a big no no huh?, So what do you guys suggest I do, when building the fire leave it open when it gets built then what way do it then, quarter open or fully closed what is suggested/recommended?

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:40 pm

All the way in to heat the house, all the way out to start a fire. No where in between.

Joshua · Post by **Joshua** » Mon. Dec. 07, 2015 9:49 pm

Wow, I was leaving it opened continuously through out the day. So build my fire & then close of the damper & leave my ash door wheel opened & that will provide a nice burn & give better heat?

The smoke will be able to exit properly w/o going into the duct & into the house, (eg. make it smokey in the house? );