About 12Hrs Per 40lb Bucket O' Coal

 
User avatar
Pancho
Member
Posts: 906
Joined: Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 4:00 pm
Location: Michigan
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood No. 8
Coal Size/Type: Stove
Other Heating: Jotul Firelight

Post by Pancho » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 11:41 am

Right now, after the shaking, it's 500 on the barrel and about 180 on the stack.


 
User avatar
Lightning
Site Moderator
Posts: 14659
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 11:44 am

I only use a lot of secondary air after loading. Once volatiles are burned off, I shut them down to only a smidgen. Excessive secondary air thru the burn cycle will just be a vehicle for heat to catch a ride up the chimney on.

 
User avatar
Pancho
Member
Posts: 906
Joined: Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 4:00 pm
Location: Michigan
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood No. 8
Coal Size/Type: Stove
Other Heating: Jotul Firelight

Post by Pancho » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 11:49 am

Lightning wrote:I only use a lot of secondary air after loading. Once volatiles are burned off, I shut them down to only a smidgen. Excessive secondary air thru the burn cycle will just be a vehicle for heat to catch a ride up the chimney on.
That's what I've been doing/using it for.

If I am supposed to have it partially open I would like to know why or what that would get me.

 
User avatar
Lightning
Site Moderator
Posts: 14659
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 11:58 am

In careful trials I haven't seen any advantage of using secondary air after volatiles are burned off. With a mature fire, I've always seen my over the load door temp fall and my flue pipe temp rise with the addition of secondary air. I tried with small increments and gave it 30 minutes to respond to each adjustment.

 
franco b
Site Moderator
Posts: 11416
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 12:08 pm

Pancho wrote:If I am supposed to have it partially open I would like to know why or what that would get me.
Your stove is different than the usual. It has those little holes below the loading door that are supposed to be connected to a cast iron ring with air holes just above the fire pot. Often they are missing and the front holes are plugged. The purpose is to burn initial volatiles and to assist in burning any subsequent CO. So check your stove to see if they are there. Lacking that ring then the shutter in the loading door should be opened a bit when reloading and less so with a mature fire.

With the brisk fire you are burning it probably gets plenty of air up through the burning bed.

 
fifthg
Verified Business Rep.
Posts: 356
Joined: Mon. Aug. 03, 2009 10:11 am
Location: southern anthracite field,Schuylkill County,Pa.
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: warm morning # 500
Baseburners & Antiques: Peninsular Western Hot Blast No.44K and Reading Foundry & Supply Co.

Post by fifthg » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 12:19 pm

After a few days running,are you still at the 40lb pace,or has more time proven a different actual burn rate?Like you said in original post,you still had some coal left to burn.Maybe it was more than you thought.

 
User avatar
Pancho
Member
Posts: 906
Joined: Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 4:00 pm
Location: Michigan
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood No. 8
Coal Size/Type: Stove
Other Heating: Jotul Firelight

Post by Pancho » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 12:23 pm

franco b wrote:
Pancho wrote:If I am supposed to have it partially open I would like to know why or what that would get me.
Your stove is different than the usual. It has those little holes below the loading door that are supposed to be connected to a cast iron ring with air holes just above the fire pot. Often they are missing and the front holes are plugged. The purpose is to burn initial volatiles and to assist in burning any subsequent CO. So check your stove to see if they are there. Lacking that ring then the shutter in the loading door should be opened a bit when reloading and less so with a mature fire.

With the brisk fire you are burning it probably gets plenty of air up through the burning bed.
I have the gas ring and the inlet holes are unplugged. It's fully functional.
So running with the secondaries open some amount isn't necessary?.


 
User avatar
Pancho
Member
Posts: 906
Joined: Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 4:00 pm
Location: Michigan
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood No. 8
Coal Size/Type: Stove
Other Heating: Jotul Firelight

Post by Pancho » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 12:24 pm

fifthg wrote:After a few days running,are you still at the 40lb pace,or has more time proven a different actual burn rate?Like you said in original post,you still had some coal left to burn.Maybe it was more than you thought.
It's pretty close to 40lb per day.

 
User avatar
Lightning
Site Moderator
Posts: 14659
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 12:28 pm

Oh ok.. that's better :)

 
User avatar
Pancho
Member
Posts: 906
Joined: Sat. Feb. 01, 2014 4:00 pm
Location: Michigan
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood No. 8
Coal Size/Type: Stove
Other Heating: Jotul Firelight

Post by Pancho » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 12:40 pm

fifthg wrote:After a few days running,are you still at the 40lb pace,or has more time proven a different actual burn rate?Like you said in original post,you still had some coal left to burn.Maybe it was more than you thought.
Lets put it this way.....the point where I load is where a bucket of coal tops it off to the top of the fire brick. And by bucket, I mean one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Fireplace-Coal-Hod- ... 0921552709

 
User avatar
wsherrick
Member
Posts: 3744
Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
Location: High In The Poconos
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size

Post by wsherrick » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 12:44 pm

That's a standard coal scuttle which when heaping full is about 25 pounds with stove coal. Maybe 30 with a smaller size such as pea.

 
User avatar
michaelanthony
Member
Posts: 4550
Joined: Sat. Nov. 22, 2008 10:42 pm
Location: millinocket,me.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vigilant 2310, gold marc box stove
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Gold Marc Independence
Baseburners & Antiques: Home Sparkle 12
Coal Size/Type: 'nut
Other Heating: Fujitsu mini split, FHA oil furnace

Post by michaelanthony » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 12:46 pm

Pancho wrote:It's pretty close to 40lb per day.
....I agree that sound more reasonable.

 
User avatar
dlj
Member
Posts: 1273
Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2008 6:38 pm
Location: Monroe, NY
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters

Post by dlj » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 12:49 pm

Pancho wrote:
Lightning wrote:I only use a lot of secondary air after loading. Once volatiles are burned off, I shut them down to only a smidgen. Excessive secondary air thru the burn cycle will just be a vehicle for heat to catch a ride up the chimney on.
That's what I've been doing/using it for.

If I am supposed to have it partially open I would like to know why or what that would get me.
Lightning isn't running a base burner. I find in my Glenwood that the door control has more importance than in any other stove I've ever run. You have the gas ring in place, so you may need less then I do, you'll have to experiment. Currently, I have a ceramic liner that closes off the under-door holes and don't have the ring in place. However, in years past when I did have the gas ring in place, I didn't notice much difference in how the stove ran...

When I first started reading here about not to use the over air control, I ran a number of tests on my stove to see if I'd been running it wrong for the past few decades, but that wasn't what I found out. Maybe it's just my stove, but unless I'm running as low as I can go, the stove burns better with some secondary air, and way more than what seems to be the common knowledge here...

dj

p.s. 40 pounds a day is way more in line with what I burn...

 
KingCoal
Member
Posts: 4837
Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
Location: Elkhart county, IN.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
Other Heating: none

Post by KingCoal » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 3:08 pm

Pancho wrote:
fifthg wrote:After a few days running,are you still at the 40lb pace,or has more time proven a different actual burn rate?Like you said in original post,you still had some coal left to burn.Maybe it was more than you thought.
Lets put it this way.....the point where I load is where a bucket of coal tops it off to the top of the fire brick. And by bucket, I mean one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Fireplace-Coal-Hod- ... 0921552709
if that's the 'bucket' your using you are burning much more like 24 #'s per 12 hrs. and, since you say that much just brings it back to the top I can assure you that you have a good many more hours of burning left at that point.

there are some questions left though. is that one of those buckets before you poke the fire to drop the bridge and shake the grates or after.

right now it looks to me like you are burning 2 #'s per hr. which at 500* is pretty reasonable. when you find out ho wmuch draft you are actually working against and manage to tame it ( there's no reason that stove won't burn fine in base mode at -.02 / -.03 ) you will be able to get that 500* much easier, your stack will be lower AND run longer at that temp. on the same amount of coal.

your stove is set up like mine. automatic main secondaries. I agree with opening your door shutter for more secondary during refuel and initial burning of high gas load but after that i'd close it and trust the stove to balance the secondaries on it's own. we discussed this alot here about my stove. quite counter intuitive but it works, according to the burn rate and draft the stove draws more or less secondary all by itself.

steve

 
User avatar
Sunny Boy
Member
Posts: 25567
Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
Location: Central NY
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Nov. 16, 2014 4:05 pm

Yup, those new buckets sold in stove shops and Lowes, Home Depot, and Hardware Stores, are smaller then the antique buckets typically listed as #16 or #17 size.

I use both a #16 and a #17 and when full they hold about 30 pounds of nut coal - measured on a rather accurate scale. So, I'd agree with Steve that bucket shown is closer to 24-25 pounds of coal.

And for the same bucket filled with Stove coal, figure roughly 10% less then nut coal - as measured when I was comparing the same volume during the stove magazine size tests.

FWI, a five gallon bucket holds 40 pounds of nut coal.

Paul


Post Reply

Return to “Hand Fired Coal Stoves & Furnaces Using Anthracite”