About 12Hrs Per 40lb Bucket O' Coal
- Pancho
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Outside temps have been low 20's overnight and low 30's during the day (and windy). I've just been letting the stove run along at 500/200 day and night.
Does this seem about right or should it be longer?. I could probably go an hour or two more before refill but I don't want to have to post another fail thread with a low coal bed.
Does this seem about right or should it be longer?. I could probably go an hour or two more before refill but I don't want to have to post another fail thread with a low coal bed.
- Lightning
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80 pounds a day sounds like a lot. Especially for a free standing radiant stove. I'm running 50-60 pounds a day in my hand fed furnace now since it went below freezing for daytime highs.
- wsherrick
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That's not too bad running at 500. If you drop the temperature 50 degrees you will get a good bit more time out of it. And once you learn how to tell when the fire is really near going out, you can get quite a few more hours out of the 40 pounds.
But, operate in your comfort range and slowly you will find that the times between loadings will be longer.
But, operate in your comfort range and slowly you will find that the times between loadings will be longer.
- hotblast1357
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X2 what lightning said, I am burning 25 pounds per 24 hour tend with highs in the 30's and lows in the low 20's in my hand fed furnace. I couldn't burn 80 lbs a day if I tried in the dead of winter!
- michaelanthony
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200 on the pipe seems a little high for a Glenwood in base mode, do you have a manometer to check draft? I have an old box stove that has a mpd and baro and I'm running 450/130...I'm getting 24 hrs on a 40 lb bag.Pancho wrote:Outside temps have been low 20's overnight and low 30's during the day (and windy). I've just been letting the stove run along at 500/200 day and night.
Does this seem about right or should it be longer?. I could probably go an hour or two more before refill but I don't want to have to post another fail thread with a low coal bed.
This pic' was taken before the mpd install 2 yrs ago.
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- Pancho
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I could easily drop the temp 50 degrees but we've been in and out all weekend and I have just left it where it's at.wsherrick wrote:That's not too bad running at 500. If you drop the temperature 50 degrees you will get a good bit more time out of it. And once you learn how to tell when the fire is really near going out, you can get quite a few more hours out of the 40 pounds.
But, operate in your comfort range and slowly you will find that the times between loadings will be longer.
I know I could get longer out of it but.....call me chicken sh*t......I don't want to have to restart a fire. I AM getting there though.
There is for sure more to this than burning wood but as I slowly erase the woodburner in me it's getting better and better every day.
- Pancho
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I could chop it down some by burning it down further and probably running it cooler once I've reached the appropriate temps for Mrs Pancho.....but for this winter (my first with coal and this stove), I'm going to throw the kitchen sink at it and get me a worst case scenario for consumption as my baseline.Lightning wrote:80 pounds a day sounds like a lot. Especially for a free standing radiant stove. I'm running 50-60 pounds a day in my hand fed furnace now since it went below freezing for daytime highs.
I've lucked out and have a good supplier and another opened not too far away. I'll use that to my advantage this year.
- Pancho
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No.michaelanthony wrote: 200 on the pipe seems a little high for a Glenwood in base mode, do you have a manometer to check draft? I have an old box stove that has a mpd and baro and I'm running 450/130...I'm getting 24 hrs on a 40 lb bag.
This pic' was taken before the mpd install 2 yrs ago.
I know I have a strong drafting chimney....the 200 is with the MPD totally closed off (minus the holes in the plate itself) and the check damper at about 60% open.
That 200 hasn't changed much with wind or no wind and the few times I've had the check damper 100% open.
- michaelanthony
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It has been suggested, "no baro with a base burner"...but I have seen 2 mpd's with a hand fed with a very strong draftPancho wrote:No.
I know I have a strong drafting chimney....the 200 is with the MPD totally closed off (minus the holes in the plate itself) and the check damper at about 60% open.
That 200 hasn't changed much with wind or no wind and the few times I've had the check damper 100% open.
- wsherrick
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In warmer weather a barometric damper with a base burner is dangerous. I can see that in extreme cases which this might be one, a barometric damper may help during the worst times.michaelanthony wrote:It has been suggested, "no baro with a base burner"...but I have seen 2 mpd's with a hand fed with a very strong draftPancho wrote:No.
I know I have a strong drafting chimney....the 200 is with the MPD totally closed off (minus the holes in the plate itself) and the check damper at about 60% open.
That 200 hasn't changed much with wind or no wind and the few times I've had the check damper 100% open.
The caveat to that is having a lid to cover it up under normal conditions.
- Sunny Boy
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I agree with MA. I think two MPD's would be the better, safer, next step to getting that stack temp down, while keeping more heat in the stove.michaelanthony wrote:It has been suggested, "no baro with a base burner"...but I have seen 2 mpd's with a hand fed with a very strong draftPancho wrote:No.
I know I have a strong drafting chimney....the 200 is with the MPD totally closed off (minus the holes in the plate itself) and the check damper at about 60% open.
That 200 hasn't changed much with wind or no wind and the few times I've had the check damper 100% open.
And keep in mind that not all MPD plates are created equal. Some brands of MPD plates have more holes, or larger holes, than others. And, some are rather undersized for the pipe, leaving gaps around the edges.
Paul
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i would say get a Manometer hooked up. you won't know how high your over draft is unless you do. then add another MPD. the ones from ACE hardware are fine.
put it as far as you can reasonably reach from the first one.
does the # 8 have an internal check or external ?
steve
put it as far as you can reasonably reach from the first one.
does the # 8 have an internal check or external ?
steve
- Pancho
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Adding another MPD is easy enough to try. I'll pick up another the next time I am out and give it a whirl.Sunny Boy wrote:michaelanthony wrote:
I agree with MA. I think two MPD's would be the better, safer, next step to getting that stack temp down, while keeping more heat in the stove.
And keep in mind that not all MPD plates are created equal. Some brands of MPD plates have more holes, or larger holes, than others. And, some are rather undersized for the pipe, leaving gaps around the edges.
Paul
Yeah, the last MPD I had in my woodstove was totally different than the current MPD.
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You would be much better off with a barometric damper than using that check damper in the elbow. Much safer and in warm weather you can use William's suggestion to cover it. Get the manometer to know what is happening accurately.
- Pancho
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I've considered it but rightly or wrongly, those things creep me out. I know many people successfully use them with no problems but I'd rather set something where I want it and not have to think about it. It's probably twisted thinking on my part but it is what it is.franco b wrote:You would be much better off with a barometric damper than using that check damper in the elbow. Much safer and in warm weather you can use William's suggestion to cover it. Get the manometer to know what is happening accurately.