Newbie With a Simplex Multitherm Boiler

Thank you Rob,
Sorry I wasn't clear on the door dampers, they only open a quarter turn (full open to full closed, one on load door and one on the clean-out). Will follow your directions on the rest! Thank you again, I DO appreciate it!

Artemus

Thank you Rob,
Sorry I wasn't clear on the door dampers, they only open a quarter turn (full open to full closed, one on load door and one on the clean-out). Will follow your directions on the rest! Thank you again, I DO appreciate it!

Artemus

it may be annoying to start with a cold stove
but you might try the way I described to start your coal fire
I have struggled many time to get mine to light gracefully - till I was told how

Good morning Sting,
I told my wife about your way and she wants to try it. If I'm reading it correctly, a load of charcoal in the center with lighter fluid surrounded by coal? I wasn't too clear on the pipe in the center or the cardboard. I do appreciate the help!

Thank you,

Artemus

As it was explained to me -- the cardboard is there to limit the air up from the bottom - as the charcoal lits - its only getting the air thru the hole in the cardboard
as the charcoal lites the coal the cardboard exponentially burs away allowing more and more air from under the coal bed to pass up and thru and exponentially build the fire and heat

its takes a little time but I am here to testify - it works every time

That pipe thing - well its just a crutch to help you build the chimney of charcoal in the middle of the coal pile

I am not a stove guy -- this is the limit of my knowledge on stoves

Kind Regards
Sting

*kenbod* made reference that Samson Valve operation was NOT for "cold start"

I believe that valve being full wide open (cold) is way too much air for lighting the new fire.

Perhaps lift chain connection off and prop air damper open with a 3/4" stick.???

Of coarse, after water is up to 150* and you have deep bed of glowing hot coal up high to top of the bricks you may replace the chain hookup and leave out the stick.

McGiever wrote:*kenbod* made reference that Samson Valve operation was NOT for "cold start"

I believe that valve being full wide open (cold) is way too much air for lighting the new fire.

Perhaps lift chain connection off and prop air damper open with a 3/4" stick.???

Of coarse, after water is up to 150* and you have deep bed of glowing hot coal up high to top of the bricks you may replace the chain hookup and leave out the stick.

It has been a while since I fired a hand-fired boiler. What you described is how I started the fire in my Itasca hand-fed with a Samson control. If you start a wood fire with the air damper wide open the flue pipe will reach some scary temperatures.

Just a response to all,
It seems like if I have too much air going to it, the burn cools off. is this correct? It seems like a very tricky balancing act.

Thank you,
Artemus

Just an update,
I think I have the coal starting. I have a lot of red coals from wood. I've added a small amount of coal in the middle and so far, so good. My next question is how much coal do I need to put into the firebox. The dimensions are about 2'x2'x2'. Don't want to add too much or have too little.

I told you I was a newbie!

Thank you always for your help!
Artemus

artbar56 wrote:Just a response to all,
It seems like if I have too much air going to it, the burn cools off. is this correct? It seems like a very tricky balancing act.

Thank you,
Artemus

True, but you only need to do it once a season...it's only one match.

Wall to wall coal
All air MUST go up through the coal...no air can be able to go AROUND outside of coal bed.

...and the depth?

Thank you,

Artemus

Single layer or layer and a half.

After all that gets a blaze, add another layer just the same on top..

This is unlike wood, it will be slow.

With air going up through the bed, I assume I close the firebox damper and open the cleanout damper???

I really DO appreciate the info! Temp in the house has gone up 2º in last 1/2 hour. I'm doing an online class and for the most part I have to leave the boiler alone...that seems to be working.

Thank you again!
Artemus

artbar56 wrote:With air going up through the bed, I assume I close the firebox damper and open the cleanout damper???

I really DO appreciate the info! Temp in the house has gone up 2º in last 1/2 hour. I'm doing an online class and for the most part I have to leave the boiler alone...that seems to be working.

Thank you again!
Artemus

While the fresh coal is igniting, the primary air (air coming in under the fuel bed) needs to be open, let it have some secondary air (air coming in over the fuel bed) to burn off volatile gases being baked out of the fresh charge. When building a new fire, add coal in layers about 2 inches thick. Let each layer get burning good before adding the next layer. Build the fuel bed up till its to the top of the fire bricks which should be 8-10 inches deep. After the whole load is burning good, then you can cut back on the secondary air. You won't need to build it back up in layers again after shake down. Just refill it to the top of the bricks.

Hint, instead of having the primary air open, I leave the ash pan door open. DO NOT leave it unattended while the ash pan door is open. A runaway fire can and will do damage.