Cold Air Return. Do I Need It?

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 9:37 am

larryfoster wrote:I was hoping that someone would see some humor in that, titleist1.
8-)

ddahlgren, we don't worry about building inspectors here.
We can hide the bodies.
;)

I would have already had one if I could have found an installer to make one.
But, I expect to have one before next season
The top 2 are funny :lol: Larry, me and I'm sure others appreciate your humor and wit!
Now about that .16 draft, you will notice more birds around your part of the sky as the temps are up there. I know you have plans to re-install the baro the sooner the better or you will be loading the furnace like a wood stove so stay with it my friend as this marathon approachs heart break hill. Once the return air is in place it should be all down hill :)
Last edited by michaelanthony on Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.


 
larryfoster
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Post by larryfoster » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 9:46 am

Locally, I'm pretty limited to Tractor Supply and Ace Hardware, franco.

Are these just standard 6" pipes 12" long or called something different?

 
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Stoker6268
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Post by Stoker6268 » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 9:50 am

Its called a slip joint pipe/section.

 
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Post by larryfoster » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 10:30 am

Thanks.
That helps

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 10:34 am

You might find it at plumbing and heating supply places too.

Paul

 
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Post by larryfoster » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 12:10 pm

Called my local ace and all they have is a union

Would anyone have a link to what one looks like, please?
I tried to Google but come up with a ton of non-stove pipe stuff

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 12:25 pm

I don't mean to throw a wrench in the machine but the baro is more valuable to keep heat output steady than it is to keep heat in the stove. Heat can only leave the stove if it has air to replace it. Being it's pretty air tight other than the combustion controls, you have control of that.. :)


 
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Post by titleist1 » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 12:28 pm

http://www.efireplacestore.com/fsd-bm0042.html

is that what you are looking for? other choices come up by googling 'flue pipe slip joint' too

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 12:33 pm

A slip-joint stove pipe is kind of a specialty item. You might have to order it, or get it online.

They look like this.
http://www.efireplacestore.com/fsd-bm0042.html

Paul

Edit,
I see Titleist beat me to it.

Paul

 
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Post by larryfoster » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 12:38 pm

I'm not sure titleist1.
franco b and stoker6268 mentioned it.
I don't mean to throw a wrench in the machine but the baro is more valuable to keep heat output steady than it is to keep heat in the stove. Heat can only leave the stove if it has air to replace it.
You should know by now that you have to type really slow for me Lightning.
To clarify, are you saying that the baro will help my poor heat in the house?

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 12:54 pm

The slip joint pipe is a pipe within a pipe. It telescopes to get it into and out of place.

When you want to remove it, you just undo the screws where it joins to the rest of the stack and slide the two sections together to shorten it for removal.

Paul

 
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Post by larryfoster » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 1:23 pm

Thanks for that, Paul
Now, to find me one of them that I can pick up

 
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 1:24 pm

larryfoster wrote:To clarify, are you saying that the baro will help my poor heat in the house?
In simpler terms it will aid with controlling the burn and heat output.. :)

 
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Post by larryfoster » Mon. Mar. 02, 2015 1:32 pm

You should always use the simpler terms with me.
Thank you

 
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Post by SWPaDon » Tue. Mar. 03, 2015 6:57 am

larryfoster wrote: How do I adjust the baro with the manometer.
No one answered this for you Larry, so I'll take a stab at it.

With your baro installed and leveled, and a hot fire going...........loosen and slide the weight that is attached to the baro until your mano reads about .06.

I used the .06 because you need a little more draft due to your sooting up issues, and because that appears to be what is recommended for furnaces like ours.

Others will correct me if I'm wrong.


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