Hitzer 30-95 Stack Temp.

John27elec · Post by **John27elec** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 3:20 pm

Hi Guys quick question on stack temp on my Hitzer 30-95. When I shake my grates in the morning on a cold morning below usually 20F. I get quite a lot of blue flames which I like. But when I refill stove hopper my blue flames move towards the back behind hopper and my stack temp will climb to about 400F and twenty minutes later come back down to a usual 150 to 200F. I have a baro on my stove and it is set to 2 on horizontal setup. Any ideas ? Stove did the same thing before when I just had a MPD in instead of baro now I have both. Like the baro because cuts down on my coal usage and cooler stack temps all the time.

JohnB · Post by **JohnB** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 3:43 pm

How's your MPD set when you see these 400° temps? I used to see that before adding the baro but not since. If you have a manometer installed what's the draft reading when the stack hits 400°? What is it when the stove is idling?

Stoker6268 · Post by **Stoker6268** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 3:44 pm

How long are you leaving the hopper door open? You increase the draft big time when you open the hopper door. My baro usually goed wide open when I open the hopper. Never really noticed a big temp spike though.

John27elec · Post by **John27elec** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 4:15 pm

I don't leave my hopper door open very long only long enough to dump pail of coal in. And yes I need to get a draft gauge bought so I can check it for sure. I usually just leave my MPD fully open with my baro just above it. Strange it only does it for like twenty minutes then it comes right back down. Any suggestions on best draft gauges to buy ?

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 4:22 pm

J, how many seasons you been runnin the 30-95?

John27elec · Post by **John27elec** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 4:28 pm

Hi Fred , I have been running this stove for about 4 years now. It use to do this alot when I had just the MPD installed. I guess its not really a problem just don't like getting pipe that hot and wasting heat up chimney. Other then this little issue I love the stove and how well it works heats my 2000 sqft ranch home easy.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 4:40 pm

Not to worry, you'll always get a jump start flame wise if you let the hopper get that low. Hell, the 30-95 does have a hopper--yes???

JohnB · Post by **JohnB** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 4:41 pm

John27elec wrote: Any suggestions on best draft gauges to buy ?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAN3C8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn Best bang for the buck & what many of us use. Try setting the MPD halfway closed when the stove is firing & see how much the temp drops. Once you dial in the baro with the manometer so the stove runs in the .03-.06 draft range temps should stay in the 150-200° range on the stack.

John27elec · Post by **John27elec** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 5:08 pm

yes Fred the 30-95 has a hopper in it.

John B . guess I am confused on what your saying what I should do. I understand getting the baro set with a draft gauge. I have it currently set at like 2. My stack temp stays down around 100-200 F all the time except during the scenario when its cold out and I refill stove.

Stoker6268 · Post by **Stoker6268** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 6:15 pm

freetown fred wrote:Not to worry, you'll always get a jump start flame wise if you let the hopper get that low. Hell, the 30-95 does have a hopper--yes???

Not to mention the occasional "gas ball flame" shooting out the top when you go to fill after shaking and letting the hopper get low! LoL

John27elec · Post by **John27elec** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 6:26 pm

Oh lol so that's what exactly causes the "big flame" out the hopper door when you refill... I haven't had that happen to many times and I always open it slowly just in case. only issue I find when I fill the hopper completely full and keep doing that seems like I cant get all of the ash out of the stove when I shake it when its all filled up.

JohnB · Post by **JohnB** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 6:50 pm

John27elec wrote:yes Fred the 30-95 has a hopper in it.

John B . guess I am confused on what your saying what I should do. I understand getting the baro set with a draft gauge.

You said above that you normally leave the MPD fully open. I suggested using it when you are getting those high stack temps. Close it halfway & see if your stack temps come down. Once you get the manometer installed & see what your draft is under fire/ when idling you can either adjust the baro again or use to MPD to dial back the higher draft when the fire comes up or both.

Stoker6268 · Post by **Stoker6268** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 6:52 pm

It is harder to shake with a full hopper. All the extra weight sitting on those rocker grates I guess.

John27elec · Post by **John27elec** » Sat. Nov. 22, 2014 8:59 pm

Ok I got you now Thanks I will have to try that. I think if I get my baro set properly with draft gauge I will be in better shape. guess I will have to look up on here and see how to properly set baro. I would assume you are trying to match your baro with your actually draft of the chimney?

Post by **franco b** » Sun. Nov. 23, 2014 12:05 pm

If I had that stove I would install no dampers and I would open the ash door only to retrieve the ash pan to empty it. I would let the hopper and thermostat do what they are supposed to do. Just shake down and top off hopper. Why short circuit it and produce burning gas faster than the heat exchange can handle it? It's not a batch fed stove so why treat it as one?