Stove Pipe Pitch

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 7:05 pm

Hello all,
Was wondering if you could lend some incite to a predicament of mine. My stove installation incorporates a wall thimble that is only 16" off the floor, and would be messy and time consuming to alter. Mike and Dave (Windy) have been extremely helpful in locating some possible upgrades to my existing Surdiac, and a couple Crane 404s became available. Those stoves are the closest match to my Surdiac, as far as the stove pipe outlet goes. Unfortunately they too have an outlet a few inches higher than my stove.
My question is this. If a horizontal stove pipe, (of approx 4' in length) is installed at a slight rake in the "negative" direction, (downhill, maybe 1/4" per foot), would the draft be effected adversely? Has anyone here run into this, where they've had to install their pipe in this manor? Dave was mentioning BB having their pipes running downhill, and my stove in itself, has its internal exhaust ports that are higher than the outlet pipe.
I'm looking to adapt another possible stove candidate to my wall thimble, and am really restricted, due to this wall thimble being located so low. Do I have any other alternatives, or would it be possible to allow a pipe to run slightly downhill. Here are some pics of the inside, and the chimney. It currently does draft well.
Image
Well, I can't seem to "quickly" locate the photo of the exterior chimney pipe, but it's nothing more than a 15' verticle run of doublewall stainless Metalbestous, with a cleanout "tee" on the bottom, and a cap on the top, a couple feet above the gutter line.


 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 7:12 pm

It's not best case scenario but I think you'll be fine pitching it downhill a few inches.. :)

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 7:32 pm

+1 ..... At worst you may have to adj the Baro for a higher draft.

Joe, can you take the feet off (or trim them) the new stove and rest it directly on the hearth without a fire hazard?

* Edited for content.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 8:43 pm

JQ, if it ain't broke-- don't fix it. No need to complicate the hell out of things my friend:)

 
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Post by KingCoal » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 8:44 pm

i would put more time and money into getting the top of the chimney up to the standard height above any portion of the roof with in whatever number of feet it is.

sorry, I know that seems pretty demanding and unhelpfully vague but my chimney goes out the peek of my roof so it's info I haven't invested in keeping in memory.

the idea of the stove pipe running down hill slightly is probably now, and if you improve your chimney will certainly, not be an issue at all.

in fact, if it were me, i'd put an adjustable elbow in the stove collar and adjust it to give an off set, then run your pipe flat or slightly rising toward the thimble.

brother scalabro has a fine suggestion too, if there is a way to drop the stove slightly.

steve
Last edited by KingCoal on Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 9:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 8:48 pm

Our friend in western Ma. had to drop his pipe about a foot in mid stream going to his chimney (no choice) not recommended but it's working for him. Your situation is something I would do if needed, just have the proper safety equipment. ;)

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 9:34 pm

Joe,i didn't look back thru your diary & do not remember what amount of draft your chimney has. Can it pull higher than .05 easily ? If it can I would think that at least in cold weather it should work ok.


 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:01 pm

Appreciate all the opinions people. Glad to hear a few "possibilities" to the downhill pipe, and the elbow on the stove collar is something to consider KC. (Would almost look like the trap under my sink :) ). It would be a "last resort", if I had to lower myself to do it. Still looking for that perfect stove, but haven't come across it yet.

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:09 pm

freetown fred wrote:JQ, if it ain't broke-- don't fix it. No need to complicate the hell out of things my friend:)
Well Fred, glad to see you're back. Haven't heard from ya in a while.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. That's my #1 lifes rule. Words to live by. In my Surdiacs case tho, it may not be broke, it's just "challenged" from day one. Hoping to improve on it, (If you can "dig my groove?")

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:16 pm

Thanx JQ. Cut the legs down some, it's been done successfully before:) Last surgery comin this Fri. Doc says 4 to 7 days in the hospital--I don't think so!!! :clap: toothy I heal better on the hill with lotsa fresh air!

 
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Post by rberq » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:21 pm

I think the only time you would potentially have a problem is when using your allowed one match per year to light the stove. As long as there is enough draft when the stove is stone cold, so it does not fill your house with smoke when you light it, then as the stove and chimney warm up the draft will only improve. If you had to, with an external metalbestos chimney, you could pull the cap off the bottom, stuff some newspaper up there, light it to get the draft started, then replace the cap once the newpaper is blazing. Might be helpful in that situation to have one person inside the house to light the stove to coordinate with the lighting of the newspaper.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:25 pm

I notice the stovepipe enlarges after leaving the breech of the appliance. A cure is going with the smaller size and putting an eccentric reducer at the breech thin side up. Should pitch you uphill.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 10:45 pm

coaledsweat brings up a good idea,if only your thimble turns out to be an 8",maybe.....

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 11:41 pm

rberq wrote:I think the only time you would potentially have a problem is when using your allowed one match per year to light the stove.
1 match to light?! :lol: In my case, I usually use my mapp gas blow torch. A boy scout I never was.
The offset thimble I haven't heard of yet, but I like it when we get ideas "outside the box". I try to think of the stove pipe like an automotive exhaust system. Once the flow has been established, it'll take all kinds of curves. Ever see the exhaust systems of the old Super Stock cars of the early 60s, that had what was called "dumps"? They turned all kinds of coc-a mamy ways, yet still worked. But RB brings up a good point. Could be a bit of trouble on initial fire-up. The paper in the clean-out, is a good idea.
As for cutting the legs off the stove, I haven't got 1 to consider, but will keep that one in the back of my mind.
And now I must turn in for the nite, and prepare myself for a return to work, after a 4 day week-end. ;)
good nite all.

 
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Post by warminmn » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 11:55 pm

I guess I'd just wait until I could find a stove that will work without going downhill with the pipe, or cut the legs off or dig a hole in the floor for that matter. It might work going downhill, probably would. its just not something I'd want to do.


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