Hammer to Open Hopper Lid!

Stoker6268 · Post by **Stoker6268** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 9:15 am

So far twice I have had to persaude the hopper lid on my Hitzer 50-93 with a hammer to get it to open. Its like its glued down. I assume its something in the coal and moisture that collect under the lid. Any one else have this happen?

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 9:30 am

Moisture under the hopper lid can be an indicator of exhaust, I'd be looking at the draft numbers to be sure you don't have a potential CO issue. Make sure your CO monitor is working too.

Some get moisture there if the coal is wet or damp, but on mine if I have damp coal it is dried out from the heat of the stove and does not collect on the hopper lid.

Stoker6268 · Post by **Stoker6268** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 9:40 am

Yeah mine doesnt stay wet but you can tell moistue collects there. When refueling you can see the rust and deposits dried on the underside of lid.. Draft is pretty constant at .04-.05 when calling for heat/ thermo flap open, and .02 when not calling for heat/flap closed. Some of the bagged coal is wet when I dump it in.

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 9:50 am

If you can't allow the bagged coal to dry some before putting it in the hopper would a thin flat gasket on the edge of the hopper help keep the lid from sticking?

blrman07 · Post by **blrman07** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 9:54 am

If you get a 5.5 or 7.5 gallon wash tub and dump your bags in it to dry that moisture problem if it's coming from the coal will go away. If you scoop it into a 10 qt pail from the tub you can save your back also. Shop around and get a tub. It's worth it in the long run if your going to keep using bagged coal.

Stoker6268 · Post by **Stoker6268** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 10:17 am

titleist1 wrote:If you can't allow the bagged coal to dry some before putting it in the hopper would a thin flat gasket on the edge of the hopper help keep the lid from sticking?

It has a rope gasket around it. Appears to be in good shape. Very crushed down. Maybe lid is closing too tight. No adjustment for it though.

Stoker6268 · Post by **Stoker6268** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 10:19 am

blrman07 wrote:If you get a 5.5 or 7.5 gallon wash tub and dump your bags in it to dry that moisture problem if it's coming from the coal will go away. If you scoop it into a 10 qt pail from the tub you can save your back also. Shop around and get a tub. It's worth it in the long run if your going to keep using bagged coal.

Think I will try that. I would love to get bulk coal but cant find any in NH and cant afford a TT load even if I found someone to split the load with.

Post by **franco b** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 10:24 am

Burning wet coal is never good. Bad for stove and bad for chimney and costs heat output to dry it out in stove. Fly ash is corrosive enough without adding even more moisture. Do as Rev. Larry suggests or open enough bags ahead of time to dry before using.

fastcat · Post by **fastcat** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 10:28 am

The two little bolts that hold the hopper door back them off 1/2 turn each and when locking the other side just turn it in to the lock so it is snug not tight.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 11:05 am

Do the newer 50-93's use rope or flat gasket on the hopper door??????? Mine is flat, but I have no lock latch, but get moisture, mostly from what my dealer sprays the dump bed with--KERO-- never had a sticking problem with the flat gasket.

Scottaw · Post by **Scottaw** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 11:59 am

I also have a flat gasket on mine and no lock. I would Definitely dump that wet coal into 5 gal buckets and let it sit near the stove for a day before using it. I keep 3 at a time near it to dry and warm up before dumping in the hopper.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 12:07 pm

Holy CRAP S, do you need a few more buckets??

I got 12 sittin NEATLY on my hearth area. My bulk deliveries are far from wet--seems people using bagged have problems:( BUT, like fastcat said, might have something to do with those bolts--

Stoker6268 · Post by **Stoker6268** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 12:37 pm

So those stoves that don't have a latch just "rest" on top of the stove? Mine has a latch right behind the eye bolt used to lift the hopper fill door.

Old-Duckman · Post by **Old-Duckman** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 12:59 pm

Stoker6268 wrote:So those stoves that don't have a latch just "rest" on top of the stove? Mine has a latch right behind the eye bolt used to lift the hopper fill door.

Mine too, plus my hopper door has a rope gasket. Bought it 2 years ago, it was not on stock at the dealership, they had to order it...I assumed it was fresh from the Hitzer factory...?

Of course, being an Amish run factory I would think that they may be a bit more flexible when parts and part suppliers change. Unlike Japanese auto makers, for instance..

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 1:29 pm

I'm not sure when the latched hopper door started. Mine is early 90's with no latch Needless to say, I did not gussy up my exterior this year due to circumstances beyond my control:stretcher:

Hammer to Open Hopper Lid!

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