Building a New Era Base Burner
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- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
here's an attempt at a vid of the jets at reload. I had been standing there marveling at a larger display until I realized it was waning and I wasn't capturing vid.
i can rev it back up I suppose but don't really want to super heat the house.
i can rev it back up I suppose but don't really want to super heat the house.
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Looks great what is the upside of not filling the fire pot?KingCoal wrote:here's an attempt at a vid of the jets at reload. I had been standing there marveling at a larger display until I realized it was waning and I wasn't capturing vid.
i can rev it back up I suppose but don't really want to super heat the house.
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- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
this stove was a heat monster last yr. with the addition of the secondary tract this yr. it has gone straight to mythological beast.
i have been running at half capacity to be able to keep it at bay while waiting for some actual cold. tonight I filled it slightly more and let it run up pretty hard before throwing it over to base mode and cutting the primary in order to see past the sheet flame.
steve
i have been running at half capacity to be able to keep it at bay while waiting for some actual cold. tonight I filled it slightly more and let it run up pretty hard before throwing it over to base mode and cutting the primary in order to see past the sheet flame.
steve
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
yes, the secondary tract functions in 2 plains. it burns the gasses which makes far more heat than I anticipated and it also acts as a slight damper on run up from wind gusts. in that reguard it acts somewhat like a elbow check damper by admitting air over the fire and cutting draft thru the fire bed.joeq wrote:What are you saying, Steve? Is the barrel temp running hotter now with the new secondary system, compared to the same settings last season?
the stove is much easier to dial down to -.03 / -.02 and hold it steady there than before as well. pretty much a diff. stove.
at half capacity in base mode and the double heater pumping it's not easy to keep the barrel at or under 400*. for that kind of performance I have to shut the primary to pretty much nothin or go back to direct draft and give some up to the chimney.
steve
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- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
a little fun around the fire pot tonight before throwing it back in BB.
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Really havin' a blast with that aren't ya ?
Thanks for posting that. Nice video action of the blue ladies dancing up a storm !!!!
Paul
Thanks for posting that. Nice video action of the blue ladies dancing up a storm !!!!
Paul
- Photog200
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- Location: Fulton, NY
- Baseburners & Antiques: Colonial Clarion cook stove, Kineo #15 base burner & 2 Geneva Oak Andes #517's
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Chestnut
- Other Heating: Electric Baseboard
Steve, with all your positive results with the double heater feature, I am getting the itch to hook up my Andes with it! The big difference with my stove is it is not a BB. To get it to idle down like my stove with the back pipe, I would have to employ the check damper in the elbow. I have also been trying to think of a way to add the secondary ring like you just did. Any ideas?
Randy
Randy
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- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
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"it depends"Photog200 wrote:Steve, with all your positive results with the double heater feature, I am getting the itch to hook up my Andes with it! The big difference with my stove is it is not a BB. To get it to idle down like my stove with the back pipe, I would have to employ the check damper in the elbow. I have also been trying to think of a way to add the secondary ring like you just did. Any ideas?
Randy
i think you had a dedicated thread on that stove i'll hunt it up and check out the pics.
having 250+ air circulating out of the top of the double heater is pretty dang nice, you may not miss the BB part. the location and floor plan will have the most influence over effectiveness i'm sure.
steve
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
well....................your stove "had" a hot blast style fire pot. in original operation it would have bypassed some preheated primary air up to the top of the fire where it would no doubt have lit up and burned gasses.
from the pics, I can see the possibility of adding secondary holes to the bottom of the load door, entering a fitted plenum just inside which you could run a ring out of.
would take some modeling but I bet it would work. wish I was closer, i'd love to have a go at it.
steve
from the pics, I can see the possibility of adding secondary holes to the bottom of the load door, entering a fitted plenum just inside which you could run a ring out of.
would take some modeling but I bet it would work. wish I was closer, i'd love to have a go at it.
steve
- Photog200
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- Baseburners & Antiques: Colonial Clarion cook stove, Kineo #15 base burner & 2 Geneva Oak Andes #517's
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Chestnut
- Other Heating: Electric Baseboard
I had a similar idea but this is where I am stumped. The load door has to be opened, would have to have some mechanism that would be stationary on the inside edge of the stove that would connect to the load door when closed. I was also thinking of drilling through the barrel to attach to the pipe, bypassing the issue with the load door. The next question would be how to control how much air gets in.KingCoal wrote:well....................your stove "had" a hot blast style fire pot. in original operation it would have bypassed some preheated primary air up to the top of the fire where it would no doubt have lit up and burned gasses.
from the pics, I can see the possibility of adding secondary holes to the bottom of the load door, entering a fitted plenum just inside which you could run a ring out of.
would take some modeling but I bet it would work. wish I was closer, i'd love to have a go at it.
steve
Yes, the original firepot did have a hot blast style with the grooves in it but I did not want to just use the cast iron pot. I do understand what you are saying though, that would have allowed heated air to come up to the surface of the coal bed to burn off the gasses.
Randy
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- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
if considering the load door option, you would be looking to replicate the GW #6 type of pieces in some form or another.
on the other hand, if you were OK with drilling the barrel. you could make up flat "pucks" that match the barrel radius on the back side. install spin dampers to control inlet flow.
steve
on the other hand, if you were OK with drilling the barrel. you could make up flat "pucks" that match the barrel radius on the back side. install spin dampers to control inlet flow.
steve
- Photog200
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- Location: Fulton, NY
- Baseburners & Antiques: Colonial Clarion cook stove, Kineo #15 base burner & 2 Geneva Oak Andes #517's
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Chestnut
- Other Heating: Electric Baseboard
I think I would rather drill through the barrel near the back of the stove. The problem with drilling holes like are in the Glenwoods is there is now way to close them off is there? In the shoulder months I burn some wood in the stove and would make that harder to control if too much over fire air. If I made a system like you mentioned with the control knob through the barrel, I think would work better. Old wood stoves like Fisher and Timberline had those kind of knobs, might be able to modify one of those.KingCoal wrote:if considering the load door option, you would be looking to replicate the GW #6 type of pieces in some form or another.
on the other hand, if you were OK with drilling the barrel. you could make up flat "pucks" that match the barrel radius on the back side. install spin dampers to control inlet flow.
steve
Scratching chin & thinking
Randy