Alaska Rear Vent & Manometer

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Doby
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Post by Doby » Fri. Dec. 05, 2014 9:46 pm

I have a alaska kast console rear vent installed in a fire place, the baro is installed in a box right off the stove with no room to connect a tube for the manometer before the baro.

Could I just drill the side of the stove and mount near were the stove pipe connects? This low and near where the ash tub sits inside the stove

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sat. Dec. 06, 2014 5:42 am

I would connect the manometer tube above the baro damper before I would drill directly into the stove. The readings will probably not be found to differ all that much (if at all) anyway.

 
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WNY
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Post by WNY » Sat. Dec. 06, 2014 6:21 am

driling into the stove would work fine, I did that on my keystoker. put a threaded fitting in with a piece of copper tubing (or a piece of brake line with a fitting). This keep the rubber hose from not melt being close the stove.
Here's mine.
THeres a good thread on Manometer Installs
Manometer Install

Putting it above the baro would not give you an accurate reading on the actual draft of the stove. it would give you the draft on the chimney pipe, but not the actual stove.


 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sat. Dec. 06, 2014 6:29 am

I used to think that placing the manometer above the baro damper would lead to false readings, but then I've never tried it. Lightning has tried it, and he has found no difference in readings taken above or below the baro damper. Hopefully he will chime in to either correct me or confirm that I understand his results correctly.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. Dec. 06, 2014 8:39 am

lsayre wrote:I used to think that placing the manometer above the baro damper would lead to false readings, but then I've never tried it. Lightning has tried it, and he has found no difference in readings taken above or below the baro damper. Hopefully he will chime in to either correct me or confirm that I understand his results correctly.
Not an impossibility, but let's not send the wrong message to the new to coal crowd, because of a "fluke"

In practice...It's the "over the fire air" that counts...and one needs a hole in the stove for that.

Remember...No two chimneys are alike. ;)

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. Dec. 06, 2014 11:55 am

Putting the tube after the baro gives you the chimney's draft. It does not tell you what the appliance is getting and is a useless fact. Readings should be taken between the stove and baro so you know what the appliance is seeing. If the baro is closed you would probably see similar numbers. Before and after. With it open, I think not.


 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sat. Dec. 06, 2014 12:58 pm

I'm not sure if the OP is using a stoker which contains a combustion blower, or if he is operating a hand fed. That said, I've done the testing with my mano before and after the baro on my hand fed, completely natural drafting furnace (no combustion blowers).. I've found the reading before and after the baro to be exactly the same. I've done the test multiple times with different amounts of negative pressure in the pipe, baro door open, baro door closed didn't matter. If there is a combustion blower in the equation, I can't say if it would influence the reading.

Now, if there is a manual pipe damper instead of a baro, then yes, the reading will be different above and below the MPD depending on how far its closed and depending on how much combustion air is entering the stove body to satisfy the negative pressure there.

 
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Doby
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Post by Doby » Sat. Dec. 06, 2014 2:21 pm

Wow thanks guys for all the response,

lsayre, I am not afraid to drill and tap the stove if it will give me the most accurate reading,its not double wall, no biggie really.

WNY, yep I did read the manometer install thread and viewed your pics but it is alot to take in and I was not clear if drilling the stove would be as accurate as somehow installing it before the baro.

McGiever,
Remember...No two chimneys are alike
thats exactly what I thought, I am really not new to coal had my stove 6 years but because of all of you guy's and this site I found I really was not doing it correctly or at the very least I can do things much better. Thank you for the learning proccess.

coaledsweat,
If the baro is closed you would probably see similar numbers
I thought about holding it closed but then how do you set the baro I agree, seemed useless to me.

Lightning, I do in fact have a true stoker stove so yes there is a cumbustion motor and I can see where that could paly a role.

Thanks guys, I,m learnig alot and I now know what to do!

 
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WNY
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Post by WNY » Sat. Dec. 06, 2014 6:41 pm

Oh, yes, if you can just put it before the baro in the pipe is the best.

I had to drill my stove, I have a direct vent on the Keystoker, so my exhaust is pressurized in the pipe.

The draft gauge actually helped one time when I went to relight the stove after a couple weeks of warm weather, it somehow went positive pressure (instead of -.02-.04), I thought it was kinda strange, but when smoke started coming out of the door, I knew something wasn't correct. the exhaust blower (direct vent) was running, come to find out my cap fell off and bird made a nest in the pipe.

 
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Doby
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Post by Doby » Fri. Dec. 12, 2014 7:54 pm

Finnally got my dwyer and fittings, all hooked up worked perfectly, I ended up tapping the stove about even with the grate, outside temp 32f, no wind it was at .08 with a full fire, Set it to .04 as per alaska. Interestingly it did not change from minimal fire to full but I guess that could change with conditions.

I know you guys like pics so I've included, Thanks for all the help!

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