New and Need Help Alaska 140 Dual Feed ?'S

Until you rework the ducts this summer, you could add some cut air filter media over the cold air return air intakes to help keep the crude from being sucked in.

Magnets are one way to hold the cut pieces.

@ Rick. Yes I think I will move it up to the horizontal run like you said

My stove is from 2006, but still the same design wise, my control box is older 1 thru 10 with dial controls, lo/hi fire, my idle (lo fire) is set at 1 , my Hi fire is at 4 1/2, I figure that's like 4 inches burning on the grate.

I'm only burning 1 grate ( 1 STOKER SIDE ) BURNS TOO MUCH COAL WITH BOTH GOING AT ONCE, FIGURE WHAT YOUR SETTUING IS AND IT'S DOUBLE THE RATE.

So you double your tstat setting when one burner? How about your idle setting do you leave it the same?

btrowe1 wrote:My stove is from 2006, but still the same design wise, my control box is older 1 thru 10 with dial controls, lo/hi fire, my idle (lo fire) is set at 1 , my Hi fire is at 4 1/2, I figure that's like 4 inches burning on the grate.

I'm only burning 1 grate ( 1 STOKER SIDE ) BURNS TOO MUCH COAL WITH BOTH GOING AT ONCE, FIGURE WHAT YOUR SETTUING IS AND IT'S DOUBLE THE RATE.

How many square ft are you heating with the one burner ?

When the temp drops into the teens here my 140 has trouble keeping my 4000 sq ft toasty running just one burner.

I run both burners for most of the season at real low idle and didnt really notice any difference in coal consumption. I looked at it this way .... If 1 burner was keeping the house comfortable with 2" of fire or 2 burners kept it comfortable with pushing 1 inch of fire each did I use more coal or did I create a longer more even burn ? ............ Actually I don't really know.

The pics show my current settings with 2 burners
Paulie

ben21921 wrote:It's a 2 storie 2900 square foot newer house. I think my major issue is I still am having trouble figuring the controls out. I have the idle set at 8 and the tsta Set at 40. Now the upstairs thermostat of the stove is set at 68 but the actual temp hasn't dropped under 70. Sorry with all the questions guys but this forum has been the best source of info for me.

Ben,
Does the 2900 sq ft include the room with your coal furnace?
What is the room temperature where the stove is located.?
Did you relocate the Barometric damper above the Manometer like previously suggested?

Paulie

Paulie
the coal furnace is in my unfinished basement. I haven't taken a temp reading there but it's has to be close to 80. I haven't moved the baro yet I will this weekend warm I get a day off work.

3000 feet, ranch style house, stove is in basement, For most of the season I will use 1 burner, if it gets to the -20s or -30s and will last for a few days I will fire up the 2nd stoker, other than that it's 1 burner,

I live above Albany NY, not uncommon to see temps at below 0, last year coldest it was was -27.

My hi fire setting is 5, ruffly 1/2 way on your dial shown, idle setting is just about where your setting is at also. I keep my house at 69. I do adjust my hi fire dial up/down as needed.

My thermostat box is a digital one. I have my the idle and tstat goes from L then 1-99 and the highest setting says H.I have my idle at 5 and my tstat at 45

So my stove has been running for less than a month now and the other day out of nowhere the stove started making a god awefull shrieking noise when the burner would feed coal. The noise stops once it is done cycling but starts again when it needs to feed more coal. I called Alaska and they told me to call the dealer. The dealer told me I need to oil the motor. Does this sound right? It's only been a month. If so where do I need to oil the motor at?

I have not worked on a 140 but from the pics I can tell its just the standard alaska paddle feedonly with two of these, the noise you speak of has to becoming from one of the gear boxes, its part of the feeder motor assembly. The gear box or motor could be bad but the good news is its under warranty. There is no where to oil the motor

This could also be caused by the paddle feeder binding causing stress on the grear box, you should shut down, empty the hopper, Then under the hopper there is a aluminum block that has 2 set screws in it, loosen these and pull the paddler out thru the hooper. Clean in there and remove the old grease then grease and reassemble.

This is a long shot seeing as your only a month in but who knows maybe it was not greased to begin with. This process should be done once a year and is easy. I would do this right away if it is binding it could break the gear box
If the paddle feeder is binding, being a months usage there has to be a underlying reason.

What type coal are you using and who's??????

Thank you for the response and info. I've been using blashak bagged rice coal but about 2 weeks ago I got a delivery of coal from Reece's in quarryville PA. I still have a bunch of bags so I've been mixing the two.

Ben does the new coal look to be bigger or smaller? If too big it could be grinding causing the problem. Tell us what you find after cleaning and greasing the paddle feeder if it still makes the noise it has to be gear box or motor

Cleaned everything and I greased the paddle grease fitting but the noise is definitely coming from here.

Just putting grease in the fitting might not cut it. The only way to know for sure is to pull the paddle out and see whats under there. Then running the stove dry and see if it still makes the noise Usually when the motor or gear goes bad it will feed coal intermittently and there will be a loss in performance or more likely the fire will go out.

Can you stop the paddle momentarily by pushing on the aluminum block underneath?