Beckett Oil Burner
- joeq
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- Location: Northern CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
I hope I don't get beaten up over this, but I'm throwing this out there for HaHas.
My Thermopride oil fired hot air furnace "used" to be a Cadillac, (30 yrs ago), and (like some of us), is beginning to show it's age. It's been "professionally" well maintain for the past 25 yrs, and only had a couple minor issues.
Recently, the Beckett oil burner has consistently been popping the motor reset, after about a 45 sec. run spell, flame and all. Not the one on the upper electrical box/relay, but the little red button on the motor itself. I did a check that franco recommended, and pulled up the igniter assy, and checked for freedom of movement, and both the pump, and motor spin freely. I checked the cad cell, and it looks like new. I firmly believe the motor is bad, because the past 3 times, when the reset popped after running, there was 1st a faint smell of an electrical burn. The 3dr time, (last one today), I actually saw a minor puff of smoke from that area, with a strong elect. burn smell, when it popped. There didn't appear to be any "hot-spots" on the external casing when it popped. I have access to an oil burner co, that we used to have a contract with, but I know they'll rake me over the coals. I see prices for this motor on the net ranging from $50-100, and I already had the one out, and the installation is cake. I've never worked a burner, and think I could save myself $100s if I changed it out.
I'm looking on-line for the exact motor, but really need to call, and talk to a salesman. I've googled the Emerson model # on my exisiting motor, but it doesn't show up. (Maybe cause it's 30 yrs old).
anyway, if there is any wisdom from you fine people, I'm open to suggestions. The next few days will be bitter cold here, and I'm afraid my little Surdiac is gunna have a tough time of it. Thanx guys.
My Thermopride oil fired hot air furnace "used" to be a Cadillac, (30 yrs ago), and (like some of us), is beginning to show it's age. It's been "professionally" well maintain for the past 25 yrs, and only had a couple minor issues.
Recently, the Beckett oil burner has consistently been popping the motor reset, after about a 45 sec. run spell, flame and all. Not the one on the upper electrical box/relay, but the little red button on the motor itself. I did a check that franco recommended, and pulled up the igniter assy, and checked for freedom of movement, and both the pump, and motor spin freely. I checked the cad cell, and it looks like new. I firmly believe the motor is bad, because the past 3 times, when the reset popped after running, there was 1st a faint smell of an electrical burn. The 3dr time, (last one today), I actually saw a minor puff of smoke from that area, with a strong elect. burn smell, when it popped. There didn't appear to be any "hot-spots" on the external casing when it popped. I have access to an oil burner co, that we used to have a contract with, but I know they'll rake me over the coals. I see prices for this motor on the net ranging from $50-100, and I already had the one out, and the installation is cake. I've never worked a burner, and think I could save myself $100s if I changed it out.
I'm looking on-line for the exact motor, but really need to call, and talk to a salesman. I've googled the Emerson model # on my exisiting motor, but it doesn't show up. (Maybe cause it's 30 yrs old).
anyway, if there is any wisdom from you fine people, I'm open to suggestions. The next few days will be bitter cold here, and I'm afraid my little Surdiac is gunna have a tough time of it. Thanx guys.
- Rob R.
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It does sound like the burner motor is bad. Can you see what HP and RPM the motor is? What is the Emerson model number?
Is it a Beckett AF or AFG burner?
The motor should be held on with two bolts, and there is a coupler on the shaft. Not a hard job once you get going on it.
Is it a Beckett AF or AFG burner?
The motor should be held on with two bolts, and there is a coupler on the shaft. Not a hard job once you get going on it.
- joeq
- Member
- Posts: 5743
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
- Location: Northern CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
The model # of the Emerson motor is SA55DYDRG 3680, and is 3450/ 1/7TH hp. I don't know how to tell if it's an AF or AFG burner. Not only is the tag/sticker missing off the burner, even the furnace itself has no model designation. It's as if burner people from the past have stripped it? I hope the squirrel cage and coupler don't require any special tooling to replace, because I plan to take the day off from work today, to run to the local merchants, and find a replacement motor. I really don't want to wait for shipping, if I have to purchase it on-line. The next few day will be single digits here, and right now, even tho the stove has done remarkably well, because of it's location (on the main floor), the cellar is frigid, and so are my living area floors. Thanx Rob and Larry, for your quick response.Rob R. wrote:It does sound like the burner motor is bad. Can you see what HP and RPM the motor is? What is the Emerson model number?
Is it a Beckett AF or AFG burner?
The motor should be held on with two bolts, and there is a coupler on the shaft. Not a hard job once you get going on it.
- confedsailor
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- Joined: Tue. Mar. 12, 2013 9:46 pm
- Location: Moosup Ct
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 100 KBtu Chappee
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- Other Heating: Oil Fired 1950"s American Standard Arcoliner 132K BTU
Im on 3rd shift currently and just down the road. If you need a hand, send me a pm.
- joeq
- Member
- Posts: 5743
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
- Location: Northern CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
I'm not sure if Electrical Wholesalers is a franchise or not, but there is a store no more than 20 mins from me, and wonder if they'ld carry replacement burner motors? I'ld like to get a Dayton motor, because I think they have a solid reputation of good quality. But as of right now, I can't afford to be picky.
And CS, thanx for your offer. But if you're in Moosup, you're an hour away. Funny, my daughter had a college friend over, and right now, both my twin girls are staying at her house, till today. She also lives in Moosup.
And CS, thanx for your offer. But if you're in Moosup, you're an hour away. Funny, my daughter had a college friend over, and right now, both my twin girls are staying at her house, till today. She also lives in Moosup.
- coaledsweat
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Change the coupler while you are in there. They are cheap and you don't need another suprise down the road.
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I like the Dayton motors too. Go to an oil burner supply with your old motor. See if there is a Sid Harvey place near you or check yellow pages under oil burner supply. Your motor has starting windings and running windings with a centrifugal switch to switch over when the the motor starts. That switch most often goes bad and if the motor stays on the starting windings it overheats.joeq wrote:good tip. thanx
If your burner is that old, just replace the whole thing and blast tube (make sure you get an F head tube). $350ish from a supply house. At that age your pump, primary control, transformer etc. etc. could all be about ready to STB. The furnace itself isn't of much concern, After the burner, the relay(s) transformer, blower motor, and fan/limit controls are all easily replaceable.
- joeq
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- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
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OK people, it's done. Of course things never end up as I would like, but given the circumstances, I couldn't be picky. I pulled the motor and went to a local plumbing and heating supply store, (Plimpton and Hills), and they could only match me up a "Chinese universal motor", that was only $60. It looked nothing like my original, and they all laughed at it, just like the jobber store when I needed to buy a starter for my 6.2 truck. They both had the same reaction. "It's so BIG". Here's a comparison of the 2.
I really don't have the time to be running around, chasing ghosts, cause face it, I'm not in the business, and most don't want to deal with us "Joe public" one timers. I called a few other places B4 I purchased this one, but is the only one I could find. This whole assy really isn't rocket science, and if the motor craps out in a couple years, so be it. I wouldn't mind replacing the pump either, when it needs it. So, for now, It was worth it to get it up and running. Does anyone know of the reliability of these motors? Should I order a better replacement to have on hand, or do you think it'll outlast the rest of the components? This furnace was really nice in it's "younger" days, and used to test over 90% efficient. So here is the finished product, supplying much needed heat to my soon to be colder floors. Now to refill my oil tank. Thanx for everyones replies, opinions, and advice. It gave me the confidence to DIY it, and keep the burner guy out of the loop.
I really don't have the time to be running around, chasing ghosts, cause face it, I'm not in the business, and most don't want to deal with us "Joe public" one timers. I called a few other places B4 I purchased this one, but is the only one I could find. This whole assy really isn't rocket science, and if the motor craps out in a couple years, so be it. I wouldn't mind replacing the pump either, when it needs it. So, for now, It was worth it to get it up and running. Does anyone know of the reliability of these motors? Should I order a better replacement to have on hand, or do you think it'll outlast the rest of the components? This furnace was really nice in it's "younger" days, and used to test over 90% efficient. So here is the finished product, supplying much needed heat to my soon to be colder floors. Now to refill my oil tank. Thanx for everyones replies, opinions, and advice. It gave me the confidence to DIY it, and keep the burner guy out of the loop.
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You did the right thing, just make sure the rotation direction is right, top of fan going away from you. Check for lube holes if any.
- joeq
- Member
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- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
- Location: Northern CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Well franco, it was a "universal" replacement burner motor, and had 2 wires. An orange one, and a white. I'm assuming the white is neutral, so that's how I wired it. It seems to be working fine, so hopefully it's right. I don't know how to check it, while it's installed, and running. The unit is fully concealed.