Mark 3 or SF250
- BlackBetty06
- Member
- Posts: 606
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 01, 2013 10:44 am
- Location: Lancaster county PA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: Stockton Nut
- Other Heating: Jotul 118b woodstove, dual fuel heat pump/condensing propane furnace
Here is the furnace with the heat pump coil. Ceiling is 7 ft. To the floor joists.
Attachments
- windyhill4.2
- Member
- Posts: 6072
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
Duct work can be tied into the existing duct without stacking it either.It depends on where your unit will set in relation to the existing furnace as to what will be required to do a proper hook up.
- SWPaDon
- Member
- Posts: 9857
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 24, 2013 12:05 pm
- Location: Southwest Pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1600M
- Coal Size/Type: Bituminous
- Other Heating: Oil furnace
With 7 ft. ceilings you have plenty of height to install a forced air coal furnace and tie into your existing ductwork fairly easily. It would then heat your house just as uniformly as your existing furnace. Except that with the coal furnace, if it can be positioned properly, you would get the gravity flow heat and would rarely use the blower on more than a low setting, if at all.BlackBetty06 wrote:Here is the furnace with the heat pump coil. Ceiling is 7 ft. To the floor joists.
My basement ceiling is about the same height as yours, and I have a coal furnace in mine.
The SF250 will provide you with all the heat you need. As was mentioned you can shrink the firebox by adding extra firebricks to it during the fall and spring months to save on coal usage. The when the winter months come, you can remove the bricks and run the stove at its full capacity for the extra heat you need.
I would rather be a bit warm than cold.
Vin.
I would rather be a bit warm than cold.
Vin.