Cast in Place Concrete Liners

 
gardener
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Joined: Thu. Nov. 20, 2014 1:41 pm
Location: southwest Ohio

Post by gardener » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 12:34 pm

coaledsweat wrote:You are over thinking all this stuff. You don't need a stainless liner or chimney relining unless your existing chimney is seriously deficient. Save your time and money and find something else to worry about. The coal isn't going to eat your chimney or the cement holding it together.
I like to know what is available; make a more informed decision.


 
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McGiever
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Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 9:08 pm

Keepaeyeonit wrote:I don't know the cost of this but I'm sure It's pricy.
http://www.cecurechimney.com/heatshield-system.html
It looks like a good fix If thats what you want to do!
This ^^^ is what I was referring to. I did a DIY chimney repair by this exact concept.

I used a burlap bag with a wooden form (slightly under sized) with a hole drilled in center of the board and a rope end through the hole and knotted on the underside of the board. Then I added some sand into the bag (some sand under board and some sand over the board and after adjusted properly the bag was tied securely to the rope above another knot tied into the rope above board a little ways. Now if this contraption is able to be raised and lowered freely yet slightly snugly then you are ready for the motor mix.
First lower the bag and throw some mixed mortar down chimney and work the bag up to force the mortar to be wiped into the voids in between the tiles. As you progress upward tie off the rope so as to not have to raise the bag from the bottom each time fresh mortar is thrown into chimney. After getting the fresh mortar wiped into joints all the way up to the top you can remove the bag. And it is best then to open the clean out or open the thimble and clean out any mortar that fell and piled at the bottom.

The mortar must be mixed with a minimum of water...you want it to be dry enough to be grainy when loose and solid and have near no dampness when squeezed or packed...if you make the mistake and add too much water it will not work as it should and will likely sag or droop. Experiment and see what mostly dry mortar can do for you. :idea:

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