Hitzer 30-95 Draft Question

 
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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 11:22 am

freetown fred wrote:JB, Finally---ya got it :clap: toothy I don't recall any ANTI-baro people, just people stating that if ya need it use it, but not just for the sake of it's just being available.
The way I look at barometric dampers is that it is just another tool we have to help control draft. If it works for folks, that is great, if you need even more control, use a mpd along with the baro. Both are great tools. I would always install at least a mpd along with a stove install. If you do not need it, you are only out less than $10.00 and you can leave it open. When I bought my last new wood stove, it was an expensive air tight Jōtul stove. They told me I would not need a mpd so I did not install one initially. When we had high winds like we are having today, I could not get the heat to stay in the house. It did not have the bi-metallic control so maybe that made the difference but the next year, I installed a mpd and the stove was a completely different stove. I do not understand being anti anything pertaining to controlling your fire. Do what you have to do to maximize your coal usage and get the most heat out of your stove. OK, getting off the soap box now...

Randy


 
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Post by JohnB » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 11:35 am

freetown fred wrote:JB, Finally---ya got it :clap: toothy I don't recall any ANTI-baro people, just people stating that if ya need it use it, but not just for the sake of it's just being available.
I got it a while ago & have posted similar info before.


If adjusted properly, the 30-95 will also not see any improvement with addition of MPD, or Barometric damper. They are not needed with the HITZER 30-95. Waste of time & money to install either damper .
Does that sound like "if you need it use it" to you? You can't adjust the issues a high draft causes away by playing with the "controls" on the Hitzer & still keep your house warm.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 11:59 am

Uhhhhh, yes ya can with one or the other. Just takes time & the ability to listen as I did when I first started burning & asked for help from guys that had my exact stove & a lot more experience then me.

 
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Post by JohnB » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 12:12 pm

freetown fred wrote:Uhhhhh, yes ya can with one or the other. Just takes time & the ability to listen as I did when I first started burning & asked for help from guys that had my exact stove & a lot more experience then me.
One or the other what? Olivers post specifically impled that no baro was ever needed with a 30-95 & buying one was a waste of money. Please tell me how you would reduce the amount of heat going up the flue with a .15 draft & still keep your house warm by simply twiddling with the stock controls on a 30-95 or 50-93?

I also soaked up lots of advice from this forum last year when I started burning coal. This lead me to install a manometer which showed me why my flue pipe was so damn hot. Further good advice from this forum lead me to purchase & install a baro which tamed my draft & got me within the draft range that Hitzer recommends for my stove.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 12:21 pm

That's good if all that is working in your particular situation, which I've said to many times already as has OP. Don't just use partial posts to try to get your point acrossed. Just don't think the baro/mpd combo or either or, is carved in stone for all situations. That would fall into the misinformation category.

 
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Post by JohnB » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 12:54 pm

freetown fred wrote: Just don't think the baro/mpd combo or either or, is carved in stone for all situations. That would fall into the misinformation category.
And on that we can both agree.

 
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Post by 63roundbadge » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 5:55 pm

I have a Alaska Kodiak hopper fed, which is almost identical to the Hitzer 50-93 from what I can tell. I don't have the bi-metallic control, only the slide shutter on the ash door. Here's my take on baro/MPDs from another post:

"I feel bad for the folks with fussy drafts and/or stoves. After reading many posts It seems like I have the most trouble-free installation out there.

My chimney is simple-I go straight up to the ceiling with 5 feet of black pipe and then 8 feet of SS chimney exposing 3 feet of it above the roof line. The cap is about 6 inches above the roof peak. A simple mushroom cap to keep the birds and rain out.

I don't use a manometer, I don't know my draft numbers. I set up the weight by watching the trees in the wind to the point I felt that the flapper was neutral. On very windy days the baro does its thing, otherwise it stays closed. Don't laugh, it works great.

I have a MPD between the stove and baro, it stays totally closed until I poke/shake when I open it fully to recover the fire. In 10 minutes I'm back to closing the MPD.

My primary air stays wide open and I throttle the output with the MPD. If it's very cold overnight I crack the MPD accordingly before bed and on warm days outside I close down the primary air in addition to the closed MPD. If I adjust the primary air shutter, the stove responds about an hour later. It's very predictable.

Stack temp 6" above the stove exit is 150 normally, 350 when recovering and 225 when I'm really pushing it.

We had to drive our daughter back to Boston after Christmas, I shook/filled the stove before leaving and closed down the air to a minimum figuring I'd clean it out and restart it upon return. To my surprise when I returned 34 hours later I had 50% visible glowing coal. I poked/shook it and it took off again. It was untouched it for all that time.

I'm using Blaschak pea, I worked with some nut last year during the cold times, it was more trouble than it was worth.

My stove is pretty much 'set it and forget it' morning and night. Why I don't know but I'm thankful."


 
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Post by joeq » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 6:38 pm

Makes all the sense in the world to me. And you went 34 hrs on an unattended burn? Nice. (Jealous) :)

 
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 6:52 pm

Totally different stove then the 30-95 or 50-93 & is really irrelevant in this posted topic. Start another topic on other stoves if you want but lets stay on topic here. For the record, my 50-93 will do 34 hrs without even breaking a sweat.

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 7:02 pm

Since this is a HITZER only thread I edited my stove info off completely, :notworthy:

 
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Post by joeq » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 7:54 pm

freetown fred wrote: For the record, my 50-93 will do 34 hrs without even breaking a sweat.
"Double jealous!"

 
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 8:32 pm

gjambor wrote:I recently installed my new 30-95 and am burning about 32 pounds a day. I have no MPD or baro. and keep the ash door vents closed . The stove drafts at between .03 and .06. I believe these are the desired draft readings. My question is , would an MPD be an advantage to my set up ? If I am burning at 500 degrees {rutland magnetic thermometer} the draft is pulling at nearly.06, can I slow down the draft and keep more heat in the stove and then set my bimetallic t-stat lower ? I believe the answer is yes.
George
Hi George, see whatchya did? Yer probably more confused now than before you asked.. :lol:
What did you decide?

Anyways, kidding aside - Your stove is in good limits with the .03 to .06 range.
Lets break this down a bit.
My question is , would an MPD be an advantage to my set up ?
I don't think so since the draft is in healthy boundaries.
can I slow down the draft and keep more heat in the stove and then set my bimetallic t-stat lower ? I believe the answer is yes.
Here's where the confusion begins. By slowing flue gas with an MPD, it will also slow combustion air coming in. Air in = air out.. and air out = air in.. The stove will cool as less combustion air is available. When the bi metallic notices the cooling, it will open to allow more combustion air in. So what you get is a mini "tug of war" going on between the two regulators. Will the MPD hurt performance? I don't think so, but I don't think it will make a noticeable improvement either..

But, you can install one just to tinker with anyways.. :)

 
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Jan. 16, 2015 8:54 pm

Ah yes Lee, the old tinker concept. It's who we are & it's what we do! ;)

 
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Post by 63roundbadge » Sat. Jan. 17, 2015 7:51 am

freetown fred wrote:Totally different stove then the 30-95 or 50-93 & is really irrelevant in this posted topic. Start another topic on other stoves if you want but lets stay on topic here. For the record, my 50-93 will do 34 hrs without even breaking a sweat.
Nothing personal with the stove brand. I'm was just trying to illustrate how my (insert any brand stove here), chimney configuration, baro and MPD work well together. Seemed relevant to me to add the stove name, someone would've asked later possibly. Plus it was the cheapest stove at the year-end clearance when I bought it.

The OP had problems with his draft. maybe a chimney problem? He's been advised on baro, MPD in the thread, I tried to illustrate how all that works together for me.

Consider me spanked. Just tryin' to help.

Again, nothing personal; it's just an extra appliance to me that can work well with minimal effort.

 
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Post by gjambor » Sat. Jan. 17, 2015 7:58 am

Yes, that is me , Tinkerer. can't help myself. If the fire goes out, which I doubt , I will install My MPD. I used to burn wood, coal just doesn't need much attention, kind of disappointing ! :D


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