Trouble With Alaska Stoker Stove II

 
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Doby
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Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Wed. Jan. 21, 2015 8:44 pm

When I pulled the feeder off of the housing there was a gasket that was crumbling and the strong back gasket was intact. It was missing some on the right hand side.
Rhinno, That statement tells me this is the problem, "missing some on the right side", It is absolutely critical that no air leaks between the grate and hopper or you will get odor/co blowing back thru the hopper. The crumbling gasket under the grate also tells us they have not been replaced for a very long time and this crumbling gasket sure could contribute because the combustion air is not being directed were it should be. I have 2 of these stoves,1 for 10 years and never seen the gaskets get to the point they crumble.

Sure glad you got someone to show you all the gasket placement thats going to help you alot and I am sure you'll get it this time,I really think you found the problem and all this is just good maintance.

I didn't get the time tonite to read the other reply's but I am sure there is good input there also, anyhow please keep us updated


 
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Rhino1000
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Posts: 28
Joined: Thu. Jan. 15, 2015 10:23 pm
Location: Julian, PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Stoker Stove II
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Electric Baseboard

Post by Rhino1000 » Fri. Jan. 23, 2015 12:09 am

Hi everyone I just wanted to update you all on my progress. The stove went one evening without any problems. I did have a smell but it was a gasket smell that went away eventually. All was fine and this morning I woke up there was no smell. I went down to check the stove and here it was almost out of coal. The fire was pretty low (a thin line) so, I filled the hopper and my family and I left the house. We returned a few hours later and the house stunk like sulfur. I went and checked the CO alarm and the level was 0. I might add we were up throughout the night with a sick child so we were monitoring the CO alarm and it never read anything it stayed on 0. So, I tried what everyone suggested I cracked open the basement window when we got home today to the sulfur smell. My wife had some work to do and was home while my family and I went left again for a while. We came back several hours later and I walked in the door the sulfur smell was gone. In fact my wife had the ceiling fan on and said it was too hot. I asked her when the smell cleared up. She said about half an hour after I opened the basement window. So, as most suggested the house is apparently too air tight and the stove needs some fresh air. I'm going to install a vent from the outside with flexible 4" duct and attach a 4" to 3" reducer attached directly to the stove. Any thoughts on this? I'm hoping it works. I just want to say thank you everyone for your help. I really really appreciate the advice, suggestions and help. I can't thank you all enough! Please let me know of any suggestions to get the fresh air to the stove. I don't have a problem leaving the window open but it bugs my wife and I want her happy too. So, I am open to suggestions on how to get the much needed air to my stove. Thanks again everyone.

 
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blrman07
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Post by blrman07 » Fri. Jan. 23, 2015 7:18 am

Please let me know of any suggestions to get the fresh air to the stove. I don't have a problem leaving the window open but it bugs my wife and I want her happy too. So, I am open to suggestions on how to get the much needed air to my stove. Thanks again everyone

Type outside air vent in the search box on the upper right corner of the screen. Lots and lots of ideas that forum members have suggested and tried.

 
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Rick 386
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Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
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Post by Rick 386 » Fri. Jan. 23, 2015 7:56 am

Are you able to remove the basement window ??

You could replace the window (just for the winter) with a piece of rigid foam board with a 4" hole cut into it to attach your ductwork.
Another possibility is to look at those dryer vents. Remove the flapper and you have your tube to attach the ductwork.

Rick

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Fri. Jan. 23, 2015 10:29 am

Whatever you use, be sure to cover the outside opening with hardware cloth to keep critters from visiting.

So very glad you found your problems!

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Fri. Jan. 23, 2015 1:28 pm

Here is a pic of the outside of my basement window where the 4" pvc air intake is. The 2" pipe up top runs to the coal bin and doesn't do anything related to air supply. I put the screen on the intake to keep out the critters and also to keep it from sucking in any leaves.

**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**

Here is where the other end of the pipe ends right against the fan intake...

 
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Doby
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Posts: 477
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Fri. Jan. 23, 2015 8:27 pm

My stoves are both in the basement of my 1974 ranch home, fairly tight, when I ran my air intake I ran the real cheapo aluminum 4 inch dryer vent but it was rigid. I felt this would better the air flow then the flex, I actually added a inline fan but found it was not needed. I ran this thru the 1st floor joists above a drop ceiling and attached it to a outdoor vent with the flapper removed just like Rick 386 explained earlier.

I then 90'ed it down and dropped to near the floor by the stove in the back room, thats all I needed,didn't even attach it to the stove its just near by.

A screen on the outside is a must because the robins will nest in there in the spring

You will need a 4" hole saw to drill thru the siding and outside band joist, hold on tight to the drill and make sure it has the extra handle near the chuck


 
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Rhino1000
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Posts: 28
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Location: Julian, PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Stoker Stove II
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Electric Baseboard

Post by Rhino1000 » Tue. Jan. 27, 2015 10:03 pm

Hello everyone. The stove is still working great. I have not gotten the cold air intake hooked up. I'm still leaving the window open just a crack. I have one question for everyone? Ever since I opened the basement window I have not had the condensation issues on the inside of the windows in house? Actually no more condensation anywhere I have found in the past? The heat is coming up from the basement better than before and I have not had to turn on the cold air return fans I installed in the fall? Am I crazy or did just opening that window a little bit solve all of these problems? Thank you in advance for any explanations?

 
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2001Sierra
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Location: Wynantskill NY, 10 miles from Albany
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Buderus Oil Boiler 3115-34

Post by 2001Sierra » Tue. Jan. 27, 2015 11:31 pm

I have read your post loosely. I to no longer have condensation on my windows. I am now using a Keystoker 90 replacing a Buderus hand fed for 28 years. I did start opening a window due to the fact the Keystoker was heating more of the house than the Buderus was capable of, and knowing the combustion fan consumed X amount of air 24 x 7. I now just added a combustion air input, and will soon post pictures when I am happy with the install. I am using the block foundation webs as a chase for the air and working on fine tuning the supply from the outside to the top of the wall. I have a way to measure the airflow.

 
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2001Sierra
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Location: Wynantskill NY, 10 miles from Albany
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Buderus Oil Boiler 3115-34

Post by 2001Sierra » Tue. Jan. 27, 2015 11:31 pm

I have read your post loosely. I to no longer have condensation on my windows. I am now using a Keystoker 90 replacing a Buderus hand fed for 28 years. I did start opening a window due to the fact the Keystoker was heating more of the house than the Buderus was capable of, and knowing the combustion fan consumed X amount of air 24 x 7. I now just added a combustion air input, and will soon post pictures when I am happy with the install. I am using the block foundation webs as a chase for the air and working on fine tuning the supply from the outside to the top of the wall. I have a way to measure the airflow.

 
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Doby
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Posts: 477
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 8:35 pm

No your not crazy just the fact that air is coming up from the basement better tells us you created airflow and thats just what you needed. Your real close to having the perfect setup. You still needed the work you did on the stove this is the bonus because you righted two wrongs

 
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Rhino1000
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Location: Julian, PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Stoker Stove II
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Electric Baseboard

Post by Rhino1000 » Thu. Jan. 29, 2015 12:02 am

Doby wrote:No your not crazy just the fact that air is coming up from the basement better tells us you created airflow and thats just what you needed. Your real close to having the perfect setup. You still needed the work you did on the stove this is the bonus because you righted two wrongs
Oh yes I agree. Those gaskets were overdue to be replaced. Just happy it is all working better and it solved a lot of problems. If I were to directly pipe the air to the combustion fan would that change anything?

 
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Rhino1000
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Posts: 28
Joined: Thu. Jan. 15, 2015 10:23 pm
Location: Julian, PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Stoker Stove II
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Electric Baseboard

Post by Rhino1000 » Thu. Jan. 29, 2015 12:03 am

2001Sierra wrote:I have read your post loosely. I to no longer have condensation on my windows. I am now using a Keystoker 90 replacing a Buderus hand fed for 28 years. I did start opening a window due to the fact the Keystoker was heating more of the house than the Buderus was capable of, and knowing the combustion fan consumed X amount of air 24 x 7. I now just added a combustion air input, and will soon post pictures when I am happy with the install. I am using the block foundation webs as a chase for the air and working on fine tuning the supply from the outside to the top of the wall. I have a way to measure the airflow.
Good deal. So how are you measuring the airflow?

 
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Doby
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Posts: 477
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Thu. Jan. 29, 2015 8:46 pm

Rhino1000 wrote:
Doby wrote:No your not crazy just the fact that air is coming up from the basement better tells us you created airflow and thats just what you needed. Your real close to having the perfect setup. You still needed the work you did on the stove this is the bonus because you righted two wrongs
Oh yes I agree. Those gaskets were overdue to be replaced. Just happy it is all working better and it solved a lot of problems. If I were to directly pipe the air to the combustion fan would that change anything?
I am not sure, in my case all I needed was to drop it near the stove but all setups are different to many variables. BTW congrats on all your hard work you really did a great job gathering information and putting it to use!

 
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Rhino1000
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Joined: Thu. Jan. 15, 2015 10:23 pm
Location: Julian, PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Stoker Stove II
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Electric Baseboard

Post by Rhino1000 » Sat. Jan. 31, 2015 11:15 am

Thanks! I couldn't have done it without everyone's input here. My wife and I were very determined to get the coal stove working again. We have electric heat as a back up and it barely heats the house. Thanks again for all of your help and everyone else who helped guide me in the right direction. Forums are a great resource.


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