Glenwood 111

 
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michaelanthony
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Coal Size/Type: 'nut
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Post by michaelanthony » Sun. Jan. 25, 2015 8:14 am

joeq wrote:Before I tear into this stove, I've been toying with the idea of sticking a length of 6" pipe on it, and turning it on. "Outside" of the house. Just to see how she'll work. Does anyone see any repercussions by trying this? Will any harm come to it, say in the firebrick area, or maybe the mica? I would think it should be turn key, as is. All parts look very serviceable. I really want to give it a test drive, B4 I take it apart for freshening up, and installing it.
...and while you're at it throw a pot of beef short ribs under the finial! :)


 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sun. Jan. 25, 2015 10:25 am

michaelanthony wrote: ...and while you're at it throw a pot of beef short ribs under the finial! :)
LOLOL! Great idea. I won't be able to play today, but maybe after work, during the week. I have a defective Reznor propane heater hanging in my garage. Haven't been able to get it to work in years. Even offered to pay someone $100 bucks, just to come over and check it out, and give me some advice. No-ones interested so far. Anyway, it has a 6" sleeve in the wall, that, (with some re-arranging) I could maybe "temporarily" tap into, to check it out. I'm afraid tho, if I works "really well", I won't want to bring it in the house. ;) (Of course I'm talking about the 111)
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Smokeyja
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Coal Size/Type: Nut / Anthracite
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Post by Smokeyja » Sun. Jan. 25, 2015 10:21 pm

Joe take that propane heater and put it on craigslist and get $100 or more ! :D

go pick you up a cheap warm morning with that $100 and smile . No need for that poop smelling fuel anymore haha

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sun. Jan. 25, 2015 10:44 pm

Poop smelling fuel! LOL! I guess you've been there. I'll have to admit tho, I like the fact that heater is off the floor. I haven't an inch of extra floor space at this time, for a "solid fuel" burning stove.

 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Sun. Jan. 25, 2015 10:49 pm

joeq wrote:Poop smelling fuel! LOL! I guess you've been there. I'll have to admit tho, I like the fact that heater is off the floor. I haven't an inch of extra floor space at this time, for a "solid fuel" burning stove.
Thats very true ! but it also means its a lot less efficient at actually heating the space . I guess if those vents are forcing it down it could work out ok. And I have to admit I use a propane forge most of the time to forge my metal. I havent built my coal forge yet. but its easy to just turn on, forge and turn off.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 6:51 am

There's a reason "garage" heaters are up on the ceiling,.... and it's not just to save space.

Gasoline fumes are heavier than air. You may get a whiff of gasoline and think it's not much while standing up in a garage, but the fumes can be concentrated enough down at the floor to be the right proportions of air and fuel to explode when there's a spark or flame from a floor level heater.

And if gas is spilled, don't bother to try and clean it up, RUN ! The blast will clean it up for you.

You may find your home owners insurance company would take a very dim view of your having a floor stove in a garage.

Paul

 
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SWPaDon
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Post by SWPaDon » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 7:22 am

Sunny Boy wrote:There's a reason "garage" heaters are up on the ceiling,.... and it's not just to save space.

Gasoline fumes are heavier than air. You may get a whiff of gasoline and think it's not much while standing up in a garage, but the fumes can be concentrated enough down at the floor to be the right proportions of air and fuel to explode when there's a spark or flame from a floor level heater.

And if gas is spilled, don't bother to try and clean it up, RUN ! The blast will clean it up for you.

You may find your home owners insurance company would take a very dim view of your having a floor stove in a garage.

Paul
There's a thread about that here: No Stove Allowed in Garage - Says Ins. Co.


 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 7:35 am

It was a bit of a joke guys. Hopefully we all know what our homeowners covers and doesn't cover. it is good to know what is what with your own insurance policy. No arguing here from my end .

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 5:43 pm

Speaking of fumes, many years back, I painted my 72 GTO in the fall time, red lacquer. You couldn't see your hand in frt of your face at times, there was so much oversray in the air. And my propane heater was on! Never thought twice about it. I've heard of gas leakers blowing houses clear off their foundations. I don't know if that applys to lacquer paint.

 
wilsons woodstoves
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Post by wilsons woodstoves » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 6:05 pm

I have done the same in years back, painted cars with lacquer with a wood stove burning, God takes care of the fools

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 7:10 pm

A guy I worked with in the museum was hired to help with conservation of antique furniture. Trained as a furniture refinisher he had a furniture restoration/refinishing business for many years.

I was building a spray booth for us at the time and going though having all the lights, switches, exhaust fans, and electrical wiring changed to meet code for being explosion proofed by the county electricians.

I thought there wasn't much danger until he describe why it was necessary and what it was like to be spraying lacquer inside a spray booth when there was a flash fire. If you think a stove can give a big back fire, try standing in a ten by ten box that turns into a one second fireball ! :shock:

Since all our spray work was done with liqueur back then I didn't want to go through what he described, so I made sure to follow all the safety rules.

When I built my present paint shop spray booth, besides designing the electrics to be explosion proof, I even went so far as to use a special grounding paint on all the walls, ceiling, floor, and inside the duct work to dissipate any chance of static build up.

Paul

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 8:28 pm

And being a woodworker Paul, you know about static electricity in a dust collection system. I used metal ducting for my machines, but some of the connectors are plastic, which necessitate grounding of the system. It's amazing how much electricity is produced, running the planer or jointer, or just the collector itself. Not a good place for a spark.

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 10:11 pm

OK men, what do you think of this idea. I pieced together the only piping I own, to try and fire up this stove. The back of my garage has a conventional entry door, (32x84?), and I was thinking about backing the stove to the open door, and firing it up. I know the chimney won't be very high, but do you think the draft will work, to burn coal? I really don't want to put it outside for hours in the storm. I know I'm getting "impatient", to see this thing work, before dis-assembly, and don't want to do any harm to it. But if you think nothing "bad" will come out of trying, I'm antsy to give it a shot. By the way, the Tee in the pipe is capped off.
Image

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 10:19 pm

If you must.......

A match light fire should draft just fine in direct mode.

The wind will be your friend in this instance.

Turn the stove so the load door is into the wind, this, and the 90* at the top will creat a localized low pressure area at the exit of the pipe.

The primary air inlet will also get a "Boost" from this, muhuhaaaaa!

Don't use a lot of match light :)

Have fun and remember......without pics it did not happen.

 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 11:10 pm

Go Joe Go! Go ahead and get it over with the excitement will haunt you until you do !


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