Glenwood 111

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Tue. Jan. 27, 2015 8:05 pm

Yeah, I think you're right JP. I pulled the plug on her, cause she just kept wheezing. Wasn't breathing right, due to the chimney or pea coal problems? Or both. What-ever. Guess I'll clean it up this week, and store it away till spring.
Then again, if I could find some 6" pipe and elbows, and mount it in place of my propane burner, and got some nut or stove coal, maybe I'll give it another shot? Nah. Maybe?


 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Tue. Jan. 27, 2015 8:09 pm

Go for it now if you can.

Come spring the weather will warm up and you won't know how well it runs and drafts when you need it. ;)

Paul

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Tue. Jan. 27, 2015 8:11 pm

I'll put a bag of stove in my trunk in case you want to swing by the hangar tomorrow Joe!

Hahahahahahahahah :)

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Tue. Jan. 27, 2015 8:27 pm

Ahh, "You're a cruel one, Mr. Grinch." Thanx for the offer Scott, but I'll have to shop around for some pipe. (Not paying full price. Against my religion)
And I hear ya on the summer draft Paul. Don't think I'll want to run it then anyway.

 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Tue. Jan. 27, 2015 8:35 pm

Joe if you think the wait for tricky burning in your stove is bad think about when I got my 6 fully restored and put it in place in early summer ... I had to wait until fall to burn. I couldn't even work on it ! It just sat there looking amazing and taunting me !

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Tue. Jan. 27, 2015 8:51 pm

LOLOL. Sounds like torture Josh. If I were in your shoes, and the temps were to plummet into the 50s, I'ld've had that sucker screaming at 700* and had all the windowstats open.

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 7:46 pm

I decided to clean the stove of all the ashes from yesterday, and removed everything removable. I like the fact that all the doors just "lift off", without having to mess with any rusty screws, or bolts. Same with the top, and bottom platform. The grate and shaker arm/fork was another matter. It was no different than my Surdiac. You'ld think the designers could give up a little more clearance, for easy removal. But "noooo", they had to make them line to line. With a little wiggling and jiggling, I got them to separate, and removed. But once everything was cleaned, I decided to put the pieces back together, to keep the stove in one piece. I must've fought with that grate and arm for almost an hour. (In my 26* garage). I tried installing them together. From the top, then the bottom. Then I separated them, and tried to unite them piece meal. From the top, then the bottom. :mad: frustration took over, and I had to walk away after inventing a whole new dialog of 4 letter words. I don't know what the trick is (yet), but know it'll go. The firebricks are gunna need some work, so maybe I'll wait till then anyway. Here's a couple pix of the grate assy and pot.
Glenwood 111 002.JPG
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Yuk! That firebrick looks pretty ugly, don't it?

Attachments

Glenwood 111 001.JPG
.JPG | 76.5KB | Glenwood 111 001.JPG
Last edited by joeq on Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 8:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.


 
scalabro
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Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40, PP Stewart No. 14, Abendroth Bros "Record 40"
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Other Heating: Oil fired, forced hot air.

Post by scalabro » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 8:07 pm

Joe, I struggled with that too until I figured it out, it's easy.

If the grates were installed it goes like this.....

Pull the sliding/draw grate out till it stops.
Reach in through the open or removed ash door and lift/tilt the rear of the round grate up high.
Then move the sliding/draw grate back in until it comes out of the fire pot support and "drops" out of the round grate.
Then the round grate can come out through the top or bottom.
Carefully removing your bricks may give you more room to do this.

Installing them is just reverse.

No worries, you WILL get the hang of it.

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 8:20 pm

Is your Crawford exactly the same Scott? Anyway, that's the procedure I need to know . Appreciate it Bro. I don't think I've got the patience to go back out there tonite, in case I decide to drive over it with my dually.

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 8:25 pm

joeq wrote:Is your Crawford exactly the same Scott? Anyway, that's the procedure I need to know . Appreciate it Bro. I don't think I've got the patience to go back out there tonite, in case I decide to drive over it with my dually.
The grates are the same only slightly larger on the 40.

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sat. Feb. 07, 2015 1:16 pm

OK guys, I've got one for ya. It'll be taken a few different ways, but let me say it's taken me a week to gather my composure on this one.
1st off, let me say, altho this is embarrassing, I'm not above admitting making idiotic mistakes, at times, (many times), but this one takes the cake. And I'm telling this story for reasons that maybe it'll prevent some-one else from doing the same stupid thing. (2 things actually). I'm putting these 2 photos for you to notice where the grate fork protrudes from.
JD snow G111 011.JPG
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JD snow G111 013.JPG
.JPG | 144.5KB | JD snow G111 013.JPG
Can you see it? Neither can I. In my own defense, remember, all this is new to me. Above, I was mentioning how I removed the components of the stove for cleaning, and had difficulty removing the grate and fork. (I'm sure it has a technical name, but I haven't learned it yet, and am sure everyone knows what I mean, when a say "fork".) The shaker handle. As I mentioned also, I had an even worse time trying to re-install the 2 pieces. I'm sure I was on the verge of destruction the 1st nite I attempted it, but walked away unscathed, but frustrated. A few of you gave me some advice when I complained about it, and a few days later, I was back out in the garage, for round 2. Yet it still was persistently trying to get "my goat", by becoming lodged in place. It took an act of congress to get it unstuck, (a couple times) and then all of a sudden, it struck me, and I could see where I was boning up. It was stuck for it's final time, when I noticed my mistake. Take a look at this photo, and see the location of the fork slot, "and" the grate viewing port above it.
JD snow G111 014.JPG
.JPG | 142.2KB | JD snow G111 014.JPG
I was trying to install the fork handle through the rectangular grate " viewing port", and not the slot below, that wasn't visible from above. "You fippin "idiot" I yelled at myself. "Stevie Wonder could've seen that." The mica door had been off all this time, and I just plain "forgot" there was a slot below for it. Fantastic! Now all I need to do, is unlodge it from it's current predicament, and install it correctly. It's gutta be easier, right? So once again, I begin hand tapping, wiggling, greasing, pushing pulling, but the thing wouldn't budge. So I had 2 options. Heat, or "slight" tapping" with a soft faced mallet. Seeing the mallet was "quicker", I recruited it's services and honestly gave it just a couple "light" taps, and "Boom" it finally came out....like this.
JD snow G111 012.JPG
.JPG | 117.6KB | JD snow G111 012.JPG
Can you imagine my initial reaction? I was devastated, but not surprised. I "was" surprised I didn't break it the 1st nite. So yeah, I'm an above average idiot, I admit it, and have moved past it. Now it's a matter of repairing "and " replacing. And that's all I'm gunna say about that.

 
KingCoal
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Post by KingCoal » Sat. Feb. 07, 2015 1:30 pm

OK, so ya had a mishap, it's not a game stopper.

find a welder who can handle cast and get it put back together.

isn't this the draw section of the grates and it just pulls forward and back in slight degrees to let more or less ash out of the center ?

there's actually another part and handle to shake the outer "plate" grate isn't there ?

i could be wrong about all that but I still think you will be OK and the stove will survive.

steve

 
KingCoal
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Location: Elkhart county, IN.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
Other Heating: none

Post by KingCoal » Sat. Feb. 07, 2015 1:35 pm

KingCoal wrote:OK, so ya had a mishap, it's not a game stopper.

find a welder who can handle cast and get it put back together.

isn't this the draw section of the grates and it just pulls forward and back in slight degrees to let more or less ash out of the center ?

there's actually another part and handle to shake the outer "plate" grate isn't there ?

i could be wrong about all that but I still think you will be OK and the stove will survive.

steve
i can see now from the prev. pics that this IS the shake handle AND center draw.

looks like it engages the tines on the center grate to provide the action.

SO.....i wonder if welding will hold the lateral motion and torque of ash / coal resistance ?

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Sat. Feb. 07, 2015 1:43 pm

Call a stove shop and see if one of them have an extra they can sell or epoxy it back together and have a new one cast.

It is possible the another mfg's draw grate might fit right in.

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sat. Feb. 07, 2015 1:56 pm

As for welding, cast iron isn't a very good candidate for that. I work with aviation welders, who do tig, and said it's not good. One "You Tuber" stated it could be TIGged with a nickel rod, but our welder says differently. He did show how to braze cast iron, but because it'll be in an "abusive" condition, (shaking down, back and forth), it will be tasked at the break. I could machine the sides, carve out some filler metal strips, screw in some tapered screws to hold it together for recasting, but it just takes away the sweetness of the original price. So be it. Life goes on. ;)


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