Glenwood 111

SWPaDon wrote:

joeq wrote:My truck is finally fixed, so I now can open up the 111...again. First course of action is the firepot, and bricks. Tomorrow I'll be laying out the parts, and re-examine the bricks. If I can't find some replacements soon, I'll probably need to do the furnace cement, unless you guys talk me out of it. I'll dig it out tomorrow, and post some close-up pics.

I personally can't envision anyone on this forum keeping you from making that stove heat your house.

With that said, I think most would agree that you should make forms for your bricks if at all possible..............before you put her back together.

Not to talk you out of it, but just a heads up. Making the brick molds is a lot of work and it's tricky to get the angles of the brick's edges near accurate. Plus, because the firepots are a curved cone shape you need a different mold for each row.

I've got over 60 hours just in making the two master bricks, then the molds, that are needed for my Glenwood #6.

I can see why the restoration shops make a one piece lining.

Paul

Paul, those bricks look awesome, you did a very nice job! Looks like the #6 will be ready for the Fall season.

Randy

Photog200 wrote:Paul, those bricks look awesome, you did a very nice job! Looks like the #6 will be ready for the Fall season.

Randy

Thanks Randy.

The bricks still have to be finish-fitted and then buttered with refractory sealer and stuck in place. Hope is to have it running when our heating seasons starts in September.

Paul

coalfan wrote:here joeq try this I found it in my saved list, how much refractory cement needed to cast inside firepot , posted feb. 17 this yr. hope this helps you and good luck !!

Thanx a ton Coalfan. It lead me to CCs thread "Glenwood with a crack", where he's in the middle of doing his 6 over. Lots of great guidance on the firepot reline.

Paul, like Randy says, you've got lots of talent to make those molds. Fantastic job. Hope it pays off for you , financially. I can see lots of time invested. I would contribute to you, but I don't image the "6" bricks are the same as a 111. (I wonder if Wilson is around?) This is my quest for the day. To see about the condition of my bricks. Pics to come. Enjoy your Sunday men.

Opening up the proverbial "can of worms". I guess the magic number is "6". There are 6 bricks to each row. And each brick is "6x6". (Go figure). They all looked like crap, loaded with debris. And the only ones that held together were the 2 on either side of the clinker opening. so far, I've only done the lower row. The uppers look "marginally" better. As for right now, I'll sit on it, and wait for any opinions before continuing on the pot. But next I'll start cleaning and blasting some of the other components.

Joe,
I may be totally wrong here, but that top row looks pretty good to me, not new, but certainly usable. I would recommend Wilson's opinion, before removing them. Some of these liners are mix/pour type. This looks like it could be done here, by turning the pot upside down,using maybe a 5 gallon mud bucket for an inside wall, and, 'get er done'. Just my 2 cents.
Cheers

Thanx D, I'll keep that as an option.
(By the way, does the "D" in Dfrost, stand for David? It'ld be nice to know we're communicating with a celebrity)

If it's the D. Frost, he won't answer the question any more i'am afraid

Peter

Joe,
No British 'Sir David' here. I'm a Richard-the D stands for Duh!!!!
I hear you Peter!!
Cheers

Enjoyed a perfect New England summer day today, and moved my parts outside for some washing spraying and blasting. Now I need to figure out what I'm going to protect the metal with, to keep it from surface rusting, before I apply the stove paint. (Which I haven't purchased yet). A little "sunbathing".

Looking good Joe.

Nice layout of the components of the stove, it will give folks a good idea of a BB's gas path.

Now, if you only had the clean out door frame

I'll run it over as soon as I return from the big "D"

Those bricks will work fine for this year if you run tight on time.

Brush 'em good with a slag brush, then coat individually with some refractory from TS.

Oh, and Paul....top shelf on the moulds Dude, Top Shelf!

Joe Looks good.

I have used a rust inhibitor from Skyco called Ospho Rust Treatment. http://www.ospho.com

I used it on my Sterling and am currently using it on My little 12" Columbian Joy (Keeley). After I remove any paint and rust, I just use a paint brush and brush it on and let it dry. I have read you can spray it on as well. The Cast Iron has set out for a few months with no surface rust visiable. You can paint right over it and it is supposed to help the paint adhear to the cast. Works for me, and I can get it at the local ACE hardware.

Look forward to seeing the Glenwood all lite up.

scalabro wrote:Looking good Joe.
Nice layout of the components of the stove, it will give folks a good idea of a BB's gas path.
Now, if you only had the clean out door frame
I'll run it over as soon as I return from the big "D"
Those bricks will work fine for this year if you run tight on time.
Brush 'em good with a slag brush, then coat individually with some refractory from TS.

Aye Scott. The bricks are needing some serious attention, and I don't think I'll be patching them up. This old antique deserves better, so I want the replacements to be as close to original as possible. I'm not going to sacrifice quality just to get it back together. If it doesn't happen soon, and I need to run on oil this season, so be it. Besides, the Arabs are being kind to us right now. You seen the prices? I think a barrel of oil is under $50. And I'm still waiting for the story on how you acquired my front plate. But for right now, you need to get back to class.

skip wrote:Joe Looks good.
I have used a rust inhibitor from Skyco called Ospho Rust Treatment. http://www.ospho.com
Works for me, and I can get it at the local ACE hardware.
Look forward to seeing the Glenwood all lite up.

Thanx Skip. I'll need to get to Ace tomorrow and see if they have any here locally. Appreciate the info.