Glenwood 111

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Sat. Feb. 06, 2016 6:43 pm

scalabro wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote:This is bordering on criminality ! If you not gonna light up that beauty,.... give it me. That stove needs to be brought back to life as Glenwood intended it to be !!!

Paul
Yes!

Where is the Glenwood Gestapo

Perhaps "Herr Q" will have a change of heart later next week (thurs, fri, sat, sun) as overnight temps are forecast to drop into the single digits....

Papers, papers, ... (said with a clipped tone). Show me your papers ! Do you have papers for that stove,.....

Paul

Photog200 · Post by **Photog200** » Sat. Feb. 06, 2016 7:50 pm

Looks real nice Joe! You did a great job on the restoration! Let me know how the polish hols up with a fire.
Randy

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Sat. Feb. 06, 2016 8:42 pm

Thanks again for all the compliments men. It still needs some fine tuning, point adjustments, carburetor tweaking, and the likes, but it'll suffice for this winters testing. It'll be interesting comparing the heat output compared to the Surdiac. I never had a complaint about the heat output of the Surdiac, just the "staying power".
And Scott, I'm hoping for a mid-day light, so it'll be settled in by night time. If your not busy after Church tomorrow.....

You remember last winter in the garage, I had a rough time getting the thing to light off. If I remember right, it took "hours". Now that its new environment is more "suited", she should start herself. And remember my concern of initial starts, in direct draft, and the rear pipe outlet? I'm hoping it'll have a strong reading on the manometer because of the placement of it. We'll see.

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Sat. Feb. 06, 2016 8:45 pm

Easy peasy

D.lapan · Post by **D.lapan** » Sat. Feb. 06, 2016 9:22 pm

joeq wrote:Hey Paul, did you post those clinkers on the "clinker" thread that ran here a year or 2 ago? They look to be the proverbial PITA. I'm not looking fwd to them. Not sure how to evacuate them from the bottom of a burning coal pile, with my round grating and draw center. If I have to pull back on the DC to dump the clinkers, will I lose the burning coals? Or just a few once I get the hang of how much? Scott instructed me when clearing ash, to poke through the clinker door, and break up the bridging 1st, then shake the grate.
Lee and Mike have requested a show, so if my daughters are around tomorrow, maybe I'll recruit one to shoot a quick video with me and the 111 and the light off. I don't know how interesting it'll be tho, cause I believe time will be a factor in how long my camera, or you-tube will allow. So watching matchlight taking hold will be about as entertaining as OJs trial. I'm doing some final detailing today, and Monday is suppose to have some resemblance of a return of winter, so I'll try and shoot for Sunday noonish, but will probably take some time to figure out the posting. Plus, once she's running, I'll be playing with fire. But thanks for hanging around.

As far as clinkers in a draw grate, when mine jams its always around the outside edge, so pulling the center is useless except to dump enough ash to keep the fire going while I mess with busting it or diging it out, I have a 5/16" round bar with a hook I bent about a inch from the end that I push through the outer edge to try and get the chunks out, rarely will that work to clear a jammed grate I normally have to use my 4' 1/2 " poker with a hook on the end to kind of scrape around the edge from the top which dose 2 things, 1 helps clear the ash from the sides of the pot and 2 will work and clinkers to the top to be picked out... it is a learning experience for sure, luckily I have only had 4 this year "all from kinmels" however its easy to light and dose burn hotter..

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Sun. Feb. 07, 2016 12:33 am

More info to digest. Appreciate the tips Dana. The only tool I acquired with this stove was a a steel rod, also approx. 5/16ths diameter, and about 18" long. One end has a 90° hook an inch and a quarter long, and the handle end has a coil wound spring. Not sure if this is the OEM tool or not, but it sure looks to be worn at the bend. I imagine it can be used to not only poke at the coal base through the clinker door, but also from the top through the load door. But it's primary function looks to me to be a device to hook into the drawcenter hole, for rotating the round grate back and forth, to shake out the ash. I'll shoot a pic of it later, or show it in the video.

D.lapan · Post by **D.lapan** » Sun. Feb. 07, 2016 7:47 am

Dose your grate end have 2 holes in it that maybe this would fit into?

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Sun. Feb. 07, 2016 9:32 am

I'm not understanding the end of that lever Dana, but it looks like ...something? Yes, the end of the 111 drawcenter has 2 holes, and I don't understand why. But the piece in your photo might explain it. This is what it looks like.

.JPG | 127.5KB | 111 stove coal 003.JPG

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Sun. Feb. 07, 2016 9:42 am

Joe,
The two downward turned 'fingers" of the handle, like Dana has, fit into the two holes of the shaker bar. Other stove makers used that style shaker handle also. The other end is a tab to fit into the slot of stove top round covers as a "lid lifter".

EBay has lots of them if you do a search of "stove handles", or "shaker handles". You just need to know the distance of hole to hole to find one that would work for your stove.

Paul

tcalo · Post by **tcalo** » Sun. Feb. 07, 2016 9:43 am

Joe,

The tool that Dana posted is the tool used with the Our Glenwood stoves. The two hooks on the tool slide into the holes on the end of the draw grate which help to pull the grate out. I believe the other end of the tool is used to lift the round lid under the dome, although I'm not positive! If your missing this tool give Wilson a call, I'm sure he has a pile of them.

Tom

Post by **franco b** » Sun. Feb. 07, 2016 9:44 am

You need a handle for the shaker. If you have a piece of flat stock you can drill two holes and put in two pins to fit the shaker.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Sun. Feb. 07, 2016 10:08 am

Sunny Boy wrote:Joe,
The two downward turned 'fingers" of the handle, like Dana has, fit into the two holes of the shaker bar. Other stove makers used that style shaker handle also. The other end is a tab to fit into the slot of stove top round covers as a "lid lifter".

EBay has lots of them if you do a search of "stove handles", or "shaker handles". You just need to know the distance of hole to hole to find one that would work for your stove.

Paul

I would bet joe has a pair of right angle pliers, or snap ring pliers he could use until the "Glenwood gods" shine down on him.

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Sun. Feb. 07, 2016 10:30 am

Morning men. Paul, your explanation of the 2 prongs makes sense, but I don't see the 2 tabs sticking 90° downward. I only see what looks like 2 fingers sticking straight out. But my eyes don't see like they use-ta.

The poker that I have, for the time being I think can work. I'll just stick it in one of the drawcenter holes, perpendicular, and operate it that way. Or I'll just grab it with my bare hands.

Tom, do you have that tool for your 109?
Franco, I could make something out of flat stock, as you suggested. As a matter of fact, I had to make something similar years ago, after purchasing an older good quality 7" angle grinder/polisher made by "Thor".(Which I still use today.) The only way to remove the arbor nut, which was round with 2, 1/8" holes. was to make a tool like you described. And the hole centers are close, altho the pins are small. I'll probably give Wilson some more business, if he's interested in providing one.

tcalo · Post by **tcalo** » Sun. Feb. 07, 2016 10:36 am

joeq wrote:Tom, do you have that tool for your 109?

Yes, my stove was missing it when I bought it. Wilson was kind enough to provide one.

D.lapan · Post by **D.lapan** » Sun. Feb. 07, 2016 10:51 am

Mine was missing as well the 2 prongs face 90* downward and I think I played Wilson $10 or $15 for it, I apologise If its more it was over a year ago but having it make shaking so much easier then dinking with pliers... I tried before I spent the big money

Glenwood 111

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