How Far of a Run Is to Far?
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I have a hand fired stove located in my basement. What I would like to do is move the stove to my family room, pass it through a wall and connect onto the chimney in the utility room. The pipe would come up out of the stove, 90 through the wall, slight angle on the other side of the wall and then 90 into the chimney. It is about a 12' run but will be plenty uphill. My draft now is about .05-.09. Is this possible to do?
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Unfortunatly, to go through the wall I would have to 90 it, but after that I can use angles less than 45 most likley, the problems I am more concerned about is getting it through the wall correctly.
Here is a thimble I found, My friend just installed a stainless steel chimney and the kit had one of these with it and he said I could have it. Would this work by connecting stove pipe to both ends of it, or would I need to use some double or triple insulated pipe on top of this thimble as well?
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/DuraPlus-Ch ... ll-Thimble
Here is a thimble I found, My friend just installed a stainless steel chimney and the kit had one of these with it and he said I could have it. Would this work by connecting stove pipe to both ends of it, or would I need to use some double or triple insulated pipe on top of this thimble as well?
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/DuraPlus-Ch ... ll-Thimble
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: keystoker 90
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- Other Heating: Oil boiler, fireplace
The reasoning behind this move is the stove is currently located in my utility room, the only way heat is escaping out of that room is through one doorway, and then at ceiling level only on the far right side of the utilty room, this heat flows above the drop ceiling. The reason it doesn't flow the other way is because there is a wall built clear to the floor joist and prevents any airflow at ceiling level. I feel like a ton of heat is getting lost here and behind the walls of my finished basement, I think I would have better luck moving the stove out into the open space of my family room, this would give the stove more direct access to the airflow down there stairs as well.
- windyhill4.2
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The link you provided says that a piece of triple wall pipe needs to be used thru the thimble & extending a minimum of 2" out each side of the wall. If you have a 6" or less wall you could get a 12" piece to do the job.
- michaelanthony
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Your plan sounds good. You could also add a "T" with a cover in the middle of the 12 foot run for cleaning 6 feet in each direction. Throw up a C.O. detector in the utility room if you can...the old saying, "out of sight out of mind", but you will still hear the detector!
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What he said.windyhill4.2 wrote:The link you provided says that a piece of triple wall pipe needs to be used thru the thimble & extending a minimum of 2" out each side of the wall. If you have a 6" or less wall you could get a 12" piece to do the job.
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Well, no way around the triple wall pipe, to bad because that stuff is expensive. My walls are only 2x4 studs with drywall on one side, it is open on the back into the utility room so a 6" piece should work, but might get a 9 to be safe.
Looking at the thimble spec it says its ID is 6", looking at the triple wall spec it says its ID is 6".
So here's a dumb question. How is this possible... "a piece of triple wall pipe needs to be used thru the thimble & extending a minimum of 2" out each side of the wall." when the triple wall's OD has to be bigger than the 6" ID of the thimble? When they say 'thru the thimble' do they mean you need two pieces of triple wall that fasten to each side of the thimble separately?
My workshop install has a similar thimble going through the 2x4 wall. The same design specs's which allows for 2" clearance to combustibles. I have single wall black flue pipe going into one side from the stoker and the insulated exterior pipe attached to the outside. I do have a 'sleeve' of 8" single wall spaced around the 6" to allow for how close to the ceiling that pipe is. I'm not at home now or i'd post a pic of both sides.
So here's a dumb question. How is this possible... "a piece of triple wall pipe needs to be used thru the thimble & extending a minimum of 2" out each side of the wall." when the triple wall's OD has to be bigger than the 6" ID of the thimble? When they say 'thru the thimble' do they mean you need two pieces of triple wall that fasten to each side of the thimble separately?
My workshop install has a similar thimble going through the 2x4 wall. The same design specs's which allows for 2" clearance to combustibles. I have single wall black flue pipe going into one side from the stoker and the insulated exterior pipe attached to the outside. I do have a 'sleeve' of 8" single wall spaced around the 6" to allow for how close to the ceiling that pipe is. I'm not at home now or i'd post a pic of both sides.
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From what I understand is the side with the black thimble would go on the stove side and the black pipe should be able to attach right to that, and on the back side a piece of triple wall would slide in there the whole way up to the black thimble, you would attach the black stove pipe to the triple wall. I am assuming they need it to extend out the back of the thimble beyond the wall, since there really is no protection on that side. Thats all I can get out of it.
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Possibly just a sheet of metal stud to stud with a hole for the smoke pipe. It should be as simple as possible to make it easier to take down and clean.
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So your saying create a sheet metal box within the studs for the pipe to pass through?
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Couldn't I just frame the opening giving clearance of 18" all around and then cover that whole with sheet metal and run the pipe through?
- SWPaDon
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I've done that in the past with windows. Just remove the window, nail a sheet of metal to the opening and cut the hole for the pipe. I personally don't see a problem with it in your situation either.xandrew245x wrote:Couldn't I just frame the opening giving clearance of 18" all around and then cover that whole with sheet metal and run the pipe through?
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Agree.SWPaDon wrote:I've done that in the past with windows. Just remove the window, nail a sheet of metal to the opening and cut the hole for the pipe. I personally don't see a problem with it in your situation either.xandrew245x wrote:Couldn't I just frame the opening giving clearance of 18" all around and then cover that whole with sheet metal and run the pipe through?