To Much Heat. Need Help
- brunom15
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- Location: Canton, MA
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For a baro damper I have this:
http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/showitem.c ... S_02722704
Pricy, but black instead of gray. I have heard of others putting a 7" or 8" baro on with a reducer going into the tee to combat very high draft. I have no personal experience with that, however. Also, capping the baro with aluminum foil when starting and reloading stove does seem to help improve the response of the system, as some kind folk have suggested to me. But my chimney is fussy, and sometimes a downright stone cold wrong-headed b***h. Reminds me of someone I used to know...
Bear in mind that I've only been practicing this art for a week, though I've been studying how to manage coal fired stoves for a month. I'd pay close attention to the guys who've been doing this for years if I were you, listen to their suggestions with an open mind and experiment to see what works in your situation.
Bruno
http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/showitem.c ... S_02722704
Pricy, but black instead of gray. I have heard of others putting a 7" or 8" baro on with a reducer going into the tee to combat very high draft. I have no personal experience with that, however. Also, capping the baro with aluminum foil when starting and reloading stove does seem to help improve the response of the system, as some kind folk have suggested to me. But my chimney is fussy, and sometimes a downright stone cold wrong-headed b***h. Reminds me of someone I used to know...
Bear in mind that I've only been practicing this art for a week, though I've been studying how to manage coal fired stoves for a month. I'd pay close attention to the guys who've been doing this for years if I were you, listen to their suggestions with an open mind and experiment to see what works in your situation.
Bruno
- windyhill4.2
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Moses B Glick.com,they sell used magnehelic draft gauges ,i bought 2 for $51 shipped to me.
- Ky Speedracer
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Codycoal, how'd everything go last night and today? Are ha gettin' a better handle on it?
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I had already loaded the stove last night so the house was hot. But I didn't load it this morning and let the fire die out today while I was at work. I did the insulation mod and will have to wait for the damper and Guage to come in and try those out.
Honestly the stove seemed a little Harder to light tonight. Would that be because the less air flow due to insulation?
Honestly the stove seemed a little Harder to light tonight. Would that be because the less air flow due to insulation?
- Ky Speedracer
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Not likely. Redirecting the air through the fire box instead of around it should make it easier to lite. What was the outside temp when you tried to light it? Remember that when the outside temp goes up, your draft in you chimney typically goes down.codycoal wrote: Honestly the stove seemed a little Harder to light tonight. Would that be because the less air flow due to insulation?
- hotblast1357
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That gauge will make the world of a difference! It will give you the answer to many question like tonight wondering why it was harder too light, it's probably a "normal" draft, something under .05, maybe before you were running a lot higher like .1-.2 Are you putting the barometric damper in a T? I think that is the best way, I don't care for straps that come with it so you can just cut a hole in the pipe, that just doesn't sit well with me.
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The outside temp was higher. Most likely my trouble was due to being in a hurry, I was anxious to see how the mod works! Lol. Either way. She is burning good now and the house is at a comfortable 72. I have the bottom adjuster screw at about 1/2 turn open and top door completely closed. The temp will be dropping all night so we will see.
The baro damper will be in a T. It should be in Friday along with the gauge.
Thanks all!
The baro damper will be in a T. It should be in Friday along with the gauge.
Thanks all!
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I have another question on draft. I read up on the install and setup of the baro and magnehelic gauge but my draft bounces with the wind. Between .05 and .1. My bottom adjust screw I fully close then open 1/4 turn. When there is no wind it's at about .04.
Should I add a mpd also. I don't really have the room in the flue for it.
Should I add a mpd also. I don't really have the room in the flue for it.
- michaelanthony
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-.04 and no wind sounds real good. Keep in mind in the grand scheme of things our hand fed stoves are a relatively crude appliance in the nicest of ways!codycoal wrote:I have another question on draft. I read up on the install and setup of the baro and magnehelic gauge but my draft bounces with the wind. Between .05 and .1. My bottom adjust screw I fully close then open 1/4 turn. When there is no wind it's at about .04.
Should I add a mpd also. I don't really have the room in the flue for it.
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do you have the magnehelic sensor port after the exhaust collar of the stove and before the Baro. damper ?
if you have the sensor higher up the stack than the Baro. damper you will be reading "stack" draft which will go up and down ( why you have the Baro. ) but it won't show what the stove and fire are experiencing.
-.04 is a common operating point. some people with your style stove stay down in the .03 / .02 range though.
if .04 is as low as you can get with the proper sensor location you MAY need to look for extra control.
"it all depends"
wish I could be more help and encouragement,
steve
if you have the sensor higher up the stack than the Baro. damper you will be reading "stack" draft which will go up and down ( why you have the Baro. ) but it won't show what the stove and fire are experiencing.
-.04 is a common operating point. some people with your style stove stay down in the .03 / .02 range though.
if .04 is as low as you can get with the proper sensor location you MAY need to look for extra control.
"it all depends"
wish I could be more help and encouragement,
steve
- joeq
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MPDs are cheap, and don't take up much room. Definitely worth putting in while you're apart, because it's another tool to allow you to tailor your draft to your needs. Put it between your baro and stove. Sounds like you're almost there.codycoal wrote: Should I add a mpd also. I don't really have the room in the flue for it.
- hotblast1357
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What I have found with my mpd is.. Is that it is useless lol it will not slow my draft down, the only thing it does when I shut it, is stop my stove from climbing in heat, like when my thermostat calls for heat and it opens the flap, my furnace will not climb in temp, it just stays put, running .05-.1 every now and then on windy days is ok, .04-.06 is where mine runs at which I think is perfect. I think you've got it dialed in good.
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I just don't understand how I am not able to control the heat in my house. It has been climbing now up to 77. I just opened the kitchen window to help cool it down some...
Is it ok for me to unplug the fans blowing around the firebox? I am afraid to bc I don't want to over heat it.
Is it ok for me to unplug the fans blowing around the firebox? I am afraid to bc I don't want to over heat it.
- SWPaDon
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Coal needs air to keep burning, close the primary air.codycoal wrote:I just don't understand how I am not able to control the heat in my house. It has been climbing now up to 77. I just opened the kitchen window to help cool it down some...
Is it ok for me to unplug the fans blowing around the firebox? I am afraid to bc I don't want to over heat it.
- SWPaDon
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I should have added. I do not shut my blower down, because of possible overheating of the furnace. I have been known to open all windows and doors to cool the house off though.............even at midnight if necessary.