To Much Heat. Need Help

codycoal · Post by **codycoal** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 8:01 pm

I just purchased and installed a new US stoves Hot blast wood/coal burning stove. I have it hooked into my chimney and the plenum of my furnace to heat my house thru the ducts.

The problem I am having is I cannot keep my house warm, instead it is just hot. Currently 81*.

For background info I have a ranch home with a full basement. The furnace is in the basement burning bit coal from ace in the hole mine in central indiana. House is 2700 square feet and I just insulated the attic a few weeks before purchasing the stove.

I have my stove turned down with the screw on the ash pan door, I close it all the way then open it half a turn. And the heat settings damper on the feed door is completely closed. I have opened windows, and even tried turning on the big attic fan, which reversed the draft in the chimney and filled the house full of smoke. HUGE mistake.

My wife is 8 months pregnant and can't stand the heat like this.

I NEED HELP REGULATING MY HEAT!!!

Thanks in advance.

codycoal · Post by **codycoal** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 8:07 pm

Also, my stove comes with 2 cage fans on the back. I thought about shutting them off but was afraid the firebox and duct work would get to hot.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 8:23 pm

codycoal wrote:Also, my stove comes with 2 cage fans on the back. I thought about shutting them off but was afraid the firebox and duct work would get to hot.

If you have a mpd open fully and some air coming in through the load door vent may help cool the fire box as well.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 8:36 pm

Fire gets too hot from 2 things.... fuel & air. I am not very familiar with burning bit coal,but it would seem to me that if you want less fire you should cut the draft.Make sure that the ash door is closed tight,maybe you need to spin those knobs almost closed. Have you checked around the doors for air leaks,that brand stove is not notorious for high quality,maybe they don't have the gaskets installed right ?? I hope you have a baro installed in your vent pipe,it should be set up with a draft guage to make sure that your chimney is not pulling a real high draft.

codycoal · Post by **codycoal** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 8:50 pm

What is an mpd?

And I do not have a baro Guage in the flue. Would installing one cut down on the draft? If so I would assume that this would slow the fire. I never even thought about that.

2001Sierra · Post by **2001Sierra** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 9:07 pm

What is your stove model?

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 9:30 pm

How tall is your chimney? What kind is it? If you have all your air settings shut the it sounds to me like your chimney is over drafting! You need a barometric damper, then once you get that installed you can get a manometer which will help you calibrate the barometric damper, try running your ash pan screw at 1/4 turn, both of your doors have gaskets correct? Is there a plug in the pipe in the rear of the furnace above the plenum blowers?

Ky Speedracer · Post by **Ky Speedracer** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 9:35 pm

A couple of questions - what's your outside temp? When did you last load up and about how much?

windyhill4.2 wrote:Fire gets too hot from 2 things.... fuel & air.

As windyhill said, it's all about the "fuel and air". I have a Hotblast burning bit coal. The best way to control the over all temp is with the slide control on the load door, but you have to allow the voliitales to burn off of the bit coal when you first load it before you really choke her down or you can get a nasty puff-back. If you have a mature fire in your stove now and the temp is still hot, close the spinner on the ash door all the way closed and slide the secondary control on the load door all the way closed. This cuts off the air to the fire. The fuel is already in there so there's nothing you can do about that. When the stove temp comes down to a more manageable temp, say 300 degrees, open the spinner on the ash pan door up about 1 turn and leave the slide control on the load door completely closed. That will keep things burning inside but should help keep your house temp down.

codycoal · Post by **codycoal** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 9:54 pm

I have a US stove hot blast 1557m.

The chimney is roughly 30 ft. Lined with clay 8x12 tile. The plug is in the back and the gaskets are on. I now have the bottom screw barely open at all. Less than 1/8 turn.

It is 30 outside right now and I loaded up about 3 hours ago. Almost two, 5 gallon buckets.

I will let the fire die tonight/ tomorrow morning and will stop at big r tomorrow to pick up a barometric damper.

2001Sierra · Post by **2001Sierra** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 10:17 pm

I agree you have a draft issue, even though your clay chimney is oversized for the 6 inch chimney pipe. Let us know how the baro works out.

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 10:19 pm

Ok that sounds like a good plan, I don't have much experience with big but sounds like your just drawing too much causing it too find combustion air, or you have a awesome tight house lol

Ky Speedracer · Post by **Ky Speedracer** » Tue. Jan. 20, 2015 10:23 pm

Cody, this stove has one major design flaw in it that will make it difficult for you to control temp, especially low temp control when burning bit coal. There is a front and rear liner in the firebox that allow air from your primary air control (spinner on the ash-pan) to bypass the coal bed and come up and over the fire. Bit coal loves over the fire air and consequently causes the fire to burn hot. You have no real ability to independently control the over the fire air unless these liner areas are blocked off. There is a simple modification that can be made to these two areas that will give you more control. Search "modifications to Clayton stove".
Also, a barometric damper is a must with your setup. Do some research on here has to how to install it and set it up.
If you start with these things you will be headed in the right direction.

Post by **Lightning** » Wed. Jan. 21, 2015 9:08 am

The link to the thread about blocking the air bypasses between the firebox and the front and rear liners are in the thread that is in my signature below.. This mod will give you independent control of primary and secondary air which will help with bituminous coal also.

codycoal · Post by **codycoal** » Wed. Jan. 21, 2015 3:38 pm

Thank you for all the advice everyone. What manometer should I order? I have found some from 30$ up to hundreds....

Noone local has a baro damper in stock so I will have to order both.

Thanks again

brunom15 · Post by **brunom15** » Wed. Jan. 21, 2015 4:06 pm

I would suggest this:
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/Differ ... Series2000 (the 2000-00N, .05-0-.20" WC) at +/- .01" accuracy.

Or, for a little less than half as much money but with +/- .09" accuracy this:

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/Manome ... riesMarkII (the Mark II 25, .05-0-3" WC).

In reality I think the accuracy at the low end of the manometer scale is far better than quoted in the literature, due to the curved shape of the tube. Besides, you really just want to be certain of your draft - that it's not too low or too high, and be able to monitor changes. More accurate measurements are nice but not mandatory. The beauty of the gauge is you can mount it to the stovepipe with a suitable length of pipe to keep the gauge from getting overheated. This gets rid of the ugly rubber hose running to your mounted manometer. If you go with the manometer you will also need a brass fitting, a foot or so of automotive vacuum hose and a 1/8" coupler to connect the hoses together, as the plastic fitting and rubber hose that comes with the manometer will melt if directly attached to the stovepipe.

Bruno

P.S. I have the Mark II 25. If I had known about the 2000-00N before I bought, I would have gotten the gauge instead, but the manometer works fine. It's just a little ugly and "plasticky / high school science class" looking.