Black Liquid From Flue
- Ky Speedracer
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Cody, for what it's worth, there look to be a couple of things in the pictures you posted that probably need to be addressed.
First - the flue pipe connections appear to be in the wrong order as others have pointed out. The lower pipe connection always goes outside or around the upper pipe (the pipe coming down). It's counter intuitive to what you would think. Due to you chimney draft air is pulled in any cracks and gaps in your connection not pushed out. The reason for this is to prevent the exact issue you are having. Any running back down the chimney will stay inside the chimney instead of seepin past the connections. If you look at the very first connection coming out of your stove you will see that it is designed to be around the flue pipe.
Second - in order to burn bit, you really should have a an 8" flue pipe. When slow burning bit, you may have as much as an inch or more of soot build up in your flue. That will reduce a 6" flue to a 4" or smaller flue very quickly. Sometimes with in a week or two. Not good. They make adapters that will adapt your 6" pipe from your Hot Blast to 8" immediately at the breach.
The info I'm passing along to you is info that people passed along to me before my install. People like Berlin on this forum that have been doing this for years and years.
First - the flue pipe connections appear to be in the wrong order as others have pointed out. The lower pipe connection always goes outside or around the upper pipe (the pipe coming down). It's counter intuitive to what you would think. Due to you chimney draft air is pulled in any cracks and gaps in your connection not pushed out. The reason for this is to prevent the exact issue you are having. Any running back down the chimney will stay inside the chimney instead of seepin past the connections. If you look at the very first connection coming out of your stove you will see that it is designed to be around the flue pipe.
Second - in order to burn bit, you really should have a an 8" flue pipe. When slow burning bit, you may have as much as an inch or more of soot build up in your flue. That will reduce a 6" flue to a 4" or smaller flue very quickly. Sometimes with in a week or two. Not good. They make adapters that will adapt your 6" pipe from your Hot Blast to 8" immediately at the breach.
The info I'm passing along to you is info that people passed along to me before my install. People like Berlin on this forum that have been doing this for years and years.
- freetown fred
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People just like to argue this one--but OLD SCHOOL is-- as stated above--to put the male end of pipes DOWN-- KISS & use COMMON SENSE
- freetown fred
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YES, where it goes into the chimney:)
- oliver power
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Nothing to worry about. If your piping was turned around as mentioned, you would have never noticed it. Last year I put a NEW masonry chimney in the shop. I used old piping I had laying around. The same black liquid flowed out some bad spots in the pipe. It was caused by condensation running down the chimney. It actually soaked through the cement block, and run down the pipe. The black came along with it. It wasn't creosote, as coal has no creosote. It wasn't from burning wood, the chimney was brand new. I replaced the piping this year. No more black liquid. Oliver
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I asked the same question when I put the Crane 404 in and was told by several that the small end down was only for woodstoves so any creosote would run to the stove. You can't put the first piece of pipe with the 404 with the crimped small end towards the stove.freetown fred wrote:People just like to argue this one--but OLD SCHOOL is-- as stated above--to put the male end of pipes DOWN-- KISS & use COMMON SENSE
- freetown fred
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They make adaptors just for that DD. Our local hardware/feed store have them. Not sure about down your way?
- Richard S.
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With wood you need to do that because of what you describe however with anthracite I'd suggest it's safer with male end pointing towards the thimble. Typically there is no seal on these pipes and that will help prevent any potential leaks from the seams. There is no reason not to point the male end towards the thimble if you are only using anthracite is what I'm saying.nortcan wrote:As seen on the photos, the pipes are supposed to be on the other way= the male end goes downward in the female one so the liquids going down run inside of the stove pipe wall. Makes a safer installation.
As far as doing it with soft coal I have no idea.
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I am lucky to be able to buy nails around here all the real lumberyards gone a real hardware store is somewhere in the past. We used to have 2 real lumberyards railroad side for delivery the real deal. furniture grade wide boards were easy to buy and well seasoned. I worked at one of them as a teenager driving trucks and delivered an entire houses framing every few days back when there was a real economy instead of the slow starvation game now. Those days are just gone now. I ended up making my own adapter right after the elbow off the stove by cutting the first straight piece to get rid of the taper as the rest of the stack and chimney was setup small end to stove already.freetown fred wrote:They make adaptors just for that DD. Our local hardware/feed store have them. Not sure about down your way?
Last edited by ddahlgren on Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 11:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
Back with the same thing = smaller end down and in the larger one up.
If a combustible product leaks down it will go in the stove and you will smell a strong odor, some products can be harmfull if burned outside of the stove pipe, so why not to be more careful than less if the same price and same job?
And if some rain/snow come down ( specially when having no rain cap) in the chimney it could bring some résidus down ...
And some insurance company are very strict on these small détails. But YOU are the boss
If a combustible product leaks down it will go in the stove and you will smell a strong odor, some products can be harmfull if burned outside of the stove pipe, so why not to be more careful than less if the same price and same job?
And if some rain/snow come down ( specially when having no rain cap) in the chimney it could bring some résidus down ...
And some insurance company are very strict on these small détails. But YOU are the boss
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If commented on me I did make the adapter and physically could not make up the first connection with small end to stove as fittig on stove the ID is way too small to make it happen. So elbow at stove small end away straight pipe over it with 2 large ends and all other joints small end to stove. I saw no other way to do it.
- freetown fred
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Hey, if that works in your set up--it don't get no better DD. We all do what we can & it sounds like you done good with yours.
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Thanks for the kind words FF I may work in high tech but at heart a country boy and sometimes you have to say close enough or just beat on it some to get it in shape. I have had a lot of good things happen in life when initially started as a problem but took them as an opportunity and did what the problem told me to do rather than follow what others do.freetown fred wrote:Hey, if that works in your set up--it don't get no better DD. We all do what we can & it sounds like you done good with yours.
- tcalo
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I've seen pipe direction argued time and time again. Common sense tells you it shouldn't matter which direction the pipe joints face because the chimney should always pull negative pressure making it impossibly for gases to escape. Although female ends to the ceiling will prevent crude from dripping out and running down the pipe.
- Ky Speedracer
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Cody, I would like to put my two cents in one last time regarding your issue. I mean no disrespect to anyone who has posted here before me. With that said, the general consensus is that the direction of the pipe with regard to which way the pipe inserts into the next pipe has NO impact on how the smoke/gases travel to the chimney from your flue pipe as long as your chimney is drafting correctly. So, with that said, the whole point of installing the flue pipe with the crimped connection going into the breach of the stove, and then repeating that same direction all the way to the thimble is to prevent exactly the issue that you are having. So the "common sense " approach to resolving this issue seems to me to be me to make sure that's the way you install the pipe.
I know nothing about burning anthracite coal so I have no experience with that solid fuel. But regarding bituminous coal and wood I think you will prevent the problem that you are having from reoccurring.
As for the 8" pipe connection and reducing the pipe size at the thimble - put an 8" Tee at the thimble so that the open end of the Tee faces back into the room and put a cap on it. Then reduce it down to 6". That way you can periodically take that cap off to make sure you are not getting to much soot build up there.
I have the exact same stove and burn bit coal too. When you back these units down and don't burn hot with a lot of over fire air the soot will build up. Good luck dude!
I know nothing about burning anthracite coal so I have no experience with that solid fuel. But regarding bituminous coal and wood I think you will prevent the problem that you are having from reoccurring.
As for the 8" pipe connection and reducing the pipe size at the thimble - put an 8" Tee at the thimble so that the open end of the Tee faces back into the room and put a cap on it. Then reduce it down to 6". That way you can periodically take that cap off to make sure you are not getting to much soot build up there.
I have the exact same stove and burn bit coal too. When you back these units down and don't burn hot with a lot of over fire air the soot will build up. Good luck dude!