Glenwood Hickory

for the time being I just threw a 90 on it and am running it with a mpd, I haven't put any coal in it yet im running it on good dry hard wood right now and wow this thing pumps out the heat, still burning off the new stove paint my whole house smells of burnt paint, I think Im going to start feeding some coal to it in a little bit

That's a very pretty stove. And in very good condition.

It may benefit from lining the firepot. If it were mine I would seriously consider it, from what I've read on the forum. The guys on here can help you with that aspect.

SWPaDon wrote:That's a very pretty stove. And in very good condition.

It may benefit from lining the firepot. If it were mine I would seriously consider it, from what I've read on the forum. The guys on here can help you with that aspect.

Yea I agree I've been sitting here thinking about doing it before I burn any more coal in it

I have had 3 different antique stoves 3 different makes and by far this stove makes the most heat of them all, I filled it with hardwood a mix of yellow birtch and soft maple and the flames are short not out of control and my house is 78 and climbing, I would imagine the back pipe would help keep it a little cooler but the hottest place on it is 670

D.lapan wrote:I have had 3 different antique stoves 3 different makes and by far this stove makes the most heat of them all, I filled it with hardwood a mix of yellow birtch and soft maple and the flames are short not out of control and my house is 78 and climbing, I would imagine the back pipe would help keep it a little cooler but the hottest place on it is 670

The thing about the back pipe is you will get more heat being put into your house as well as more draft control . But glad to see its doing what you want already. It can only get better from here .

I'm thinking when it dies down a little I might throw a 2nd mpd in slow the fire down a little more till I can get a back pipe

D.lapan wrote:I'm thinking when it dies down a little I might throw a 2nd mpd in slow the fire down a little more till I can get a back pipe

You should be able to slow the fire with the primary air control unless you have abnormally strong draft. First make sure the ash pit door fits airtight before adding a second MPD. A manometer to measure the draft is very helpful.

D.lapan wrote:I'm thinking when it dies down a little I might throw a 2nd mpd in slow the fire down a little more till I can get a back pipe

You should be able to slow the fire with the primary air control unless you have abnormally strong draft. First make sure the ash pit door fits airtight before adding a second MPD. A manometer to measure the draft is very helpful.[/quote

With the mpd close all the way and all draft controls primary and secondary I still have a -04 draft per my testo flue gas analyzer

D.lapan wrote:With the mpd close all the way and all draft controls primary and secondary I still have a -04 draft per my testo flue gas analyzer

First do the dollar bill test on the ash door by closing a dollar bill in the door at various spots to see if it is held tightly.

Wood will make the draft stronger and tougher to control - especially if the dollar bill test Franco is suggesting shows that your stove has even what you might think are tiny air leaks below the firebed.

And, you might want to try it on a full load of coal before adding another MPD. Coal will burn slower and more controlable in comparison to wood.

Once you've got a good coal fire going, switch it over to indirect mode (turn the damper to the back pipe). With the back pipe extracting more heat, that should help tame any too-strong draft without having to add another MPD. Then you can experiment with how far closed you can keep the MPD while getting the heat level you want by using the primary damper.

You can gain further control by experimenting with various sized coal. Stove coal, with it's larger pieces making larger air spaces, will burn faster/hotter than nut coal. And nut coal will burn faster/hotter than if you used all pea coal. Some guys find that their stove does best by mixing sizes to better fine tune it.

Each stove, chimney system, and location is unique. It takes a bit of you experimenting with the stove for it to teach you what it likes best.

Paul

As of right now I don't have the back pipe, I'm looking around right now, Wilson has all the stuff to do it, there was a rather large gap on the bottom of the ash pan " I could see a glow" but I got it closed up to the point where a match flame won't even suck into it

D.lapan wrote:As of right now I don't have the back pipe, I'm looking around right now, Wilson has all the stuff to do it, there was a rather large gap on the bottom of the ash pan " I could see a glow" but I got it closed up to the point where a match flame won't even suck into it

Closing that up will help. Have you smoke- checked all around the fire pot, base, and underside of the stove? Can you close the primary damper(s) and not have smoke pulled in around there ?

While you wait for a back pipe, you can still experiment with coal and coal sizes. That should be a rather noticeable difference in control compared to wood.

Paul

The Draft controls close incredibly tight with no smoke or flame movement however I just noticed there is a leak at the bottom of the pot where it bolts to the ash pan

A quick cleaning with a small wire brush and a dab of refractory cement pushed into that leak, will take care of that until the day you want to get it fixed more permanently.

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote:A quick cleaning with a small wire brush and a dab of refractory cement pushed into that leak, will take care of that until the day you want to get it fixed more permanently.

Paul

Ur the fool that I got it from disasembled the whole thing, sandblasted and painted with the paint he uses for rebuilding pellet stoves, did a great job but it looks like they didn't seal the pot at all just bolted it back on, guess I know what I'm doing next weekend