Stoker maintenance

I've started asking callers about the maintenance of their efm stoker/boilers. Many are replacing the domestic water coil, burner plates or burner worm and pipe for the first time, after 25-30 years of use.

This also agrees with our parts sales.

The best thing you can do is to keep the stoker mechanisms lubed, use the clean-out lever when you check the ash can, and clean the inside of the boiler, flue pipes, chimney base, including the holes in the burner plates, in the Spring. Also, check the tightness of the coil nuts every season and fix any water leaks immediately.

If I was going to carry any spare parts, I would have some burner plates and a burner worm and pipe. The bad news is that you may never need them.

I think the base on mine will be the first thing to go bad. It is rusted around the ash door and rusted around the back corners, the guy I got it from must have had a wet basement.

Seal over any holes in the base so you don't get CO coming through them.

I put some sheet metal patches over the holes, then cemented the holes shut permanently. They weren't that big, maybe 1/2" or so but usually once the rust starts in theres no stopping it.

Although they seem like snake oil, the quality rust reformer products really do work. I used Rustoleum reformer and paint on a rusty, pitted trailer at least 10-15 years ago and the rust has never come through the paint, even though it sits outside in the weather.

The base for the 520 is still the same. I don't work in sales, so I'm not too familiar with pricing.