Hooking up Koker Lite

Are you saying the K-lite fan is too weak to scrub it's own heat ?

windyhill4.2 wrote:Are you saying the K-lite fan is too weak to scrub it's own heat ?

I would like to know the answer here also. The Koker Lite has a 1,000 CFM blower.

Heating BTUs = CFM x ∆t x 1.08

If the cold air return to the furnace is at 70 degrees and the supply from the Koker to the home is at 130 degrees, that is a ∆t of 60 degrees.

BTU's = 1,000 x 60 x 1,08 = 64,800 BTUH

A 1,000 CFM blower should be capable of scrubbing nearly 65,000 BTU's per hour from the Koker Lite and delivering them to the home.

If the blower was 1,500 CFM it would scrub 1.5 times that, or 97,200 BTUH.

What is the maximum rated heat output capacity of the Koker Lite in BTUH's? It's maximum input is rated at 105,000 BTUH.

Someone on the forum mentioned that they had Keystoker put a 1,500 CFM blower (original Koker) into their Koker Lite, and they are happy with the outcome. If this was done would it still need to use the propane furnaces blower?

My best guess is that a 1,250 CFM blower would scrub all of the BTU's the Koker Lite can output.

Scrub as it may...but we are talking about distribution...there is a lot of resistance in duct work to overcome to be able to deliver needed volumes of usable heat to the second floor rooms.

Little blowers are reduced quickly due to the duct losses in cfms. Same as for fluid pumps and pipe flows/head.

Did Keystoker make a mistake when they bundled the Koker Lite with a 1,000 CFM blower?

Wouldn't the smaller fan just have to run longer to do the job ?That would actually make the air coming thru the duct a bit warmer & create a warmer feel to the room,more consistent feel temp.

My hotblast 1357 only has one 550 cfm fan, it keeps my 2100 sq ft house a even 72, but it does run constant, it never shuts off, it is only controlled by a snap disc on the furnace jacket which is I believe 110 degrees, which of coarse during winter my furnace is running a lot hotter than that. This is all factory.

windyhill4.2 wrote:Wouldn't the smaller fan just have to run longer to do the job ?That would actually make the air coming thru the duct a bit warmer & create a warmer feel to the room,more consistent feel temp.

Would you put a smaller circulator pump on your boiler and use the same thinking?

How many times does it need to be said???
You cannot get 1000cfm out of the duct work...there will be losses that drag the 1000cfm down to a smaller number.
This being a 2 story adds even more losses than what a single story ranch might.

I understand this now. Just as for circulating water, circulating air experiences pressure drop (head). If the head is sufficient it could negate any of the initial potential for CFM's (which are probably measured against zero head).

If duct work was built and sized for solid fuels to begin with it could help in some situations. But, seldom if ever is the duct work designed around solid fuel use.
Propain, NG,HO and electric heat with their quick and much higher temps at the registers allow for smaller duct sizes and higher velocities.

Longer runs through out the many obstacles in a building's construction layout will add up to some hefty flow losses. It is not good to ignore these flow losses.

not to get off topic but I was wondering .... How come every time Im reading down the list of threads and I come to this one , I read it " Kokeing up a hooker lite"?

Just had our propane tank filled for about $600, Last time it was filled was filled Dec. 19. It is 2 degrees and windy here this morning. much colder than normal. I don't think the furnace has stopped running! I guess I really need to make a decision on the coal stove. From the research I have done, I am probably going with the Koker Lite. Based on the limited information I have posted does anyone think that there is a better stove for us? Thanks for all the responses, Mark

iamcold wrote:Just had our propane tank filled for about $600, Last time it was filled was filled Dec. 19. It is 2 degrees and windy here this morning. much colder than normal. I don't think the furnace has stopped running! I guess I really need to make a decision on the coal stove. From the research I have done, I am probably going with the Koker Lite. Based on the limited information I have posted does anyone think that there is a better stove for us? Thanks for all the responses, Mark

Far too little to go on.
Where do you live?
How old is your house?
How well insulated is it?
How many sq-ft?
Single floor, or multiple floors?
Basement or crawl space?
Single or double pane windows?
Leaky, normal, or tight?
What is the output BTUH rating of your propane furnace? The input rating?
What is the CFM rating of your propane furnaces blower?
Have you had a heat loss calculation done?

From the info posted, my guess is the Koker Lite located in your unfinished basement would probably have the capacity to heat your 2000sqft, 1994, fairly well insulated with lots of windows home for at least 90% of the weather you get in SouthCentral PA. If you want to handle 100% of the weather then get one with more capacity.

As suggested see if you can get it with the higher cfm blower the Koker offers to overcome duct losses.

When you install it make sure you set it up so the propane furnace can also be run at the same time to give a heating assist on nights like last night.

Try to plan the location of the stoker so you can easily take coal delivery in a spot that allows minimal effort getting it to the stove.

Duh, silly me, I didn't realize that he is the OP. He has answered a number of the typical questions already.

The question ~~~~ WHERE DO YOU LIVE ~~~~ wouldn't need to be asked if that info was in the profile lines.