Struggling and Frustrated

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Feb. 17, 2015 10:45 pm

oliver power wrote:Simply turn down the dial for room comfort. It's all taken care of for you .
Now I'm really confused.. Turning the dial down.. wouldn't that make it run cooler? My wife won't stand for it when its 45 outside and only 65 in the house. bop2 :funny:

Just tryin to help.. :)


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 6:45 am

That depends Lee. ;)

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 7:05 am

Lightning wrote:
oliver power wrote:Simply turn down the dial for room comfort. It's all taken care of for you .
Now I'm really confused.. Turning the dial down.. wouldn't that make it run cooler? My wife won't stand for it when its 45 outside and only 65 in the house. bop2 :funny:

Just tryin to help.. :)
OK Lightning :roll: , we all appreciate the brain stimulating effort your trying to set forth :lol . For the sake of outside (non member) readers, simply turn the dial down.
It's all been figured out for you. :) .

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 9:11 am

I admire your passion for trying to figure out what is going on behind the scenes. I find myself doing the same thing. :) There are many on the board that use a MPD in these bi metallic regulated, hopper fed stoves. Since a MPD and a baro have the same effect on negative pressure in the fire box by weakening it, it would stand to reason that the MPD would also make it run more inefficient and use more coal just like the baro seems to be. I think we would be hard pressed to get the MPD users to agree with that. I'll agree to disagree, and I realize that's just my opinion and that's ok. I still believe there is something else other than the baro being at fault for the original poster's increase in consumption. He seems to say its been over the course of the last week or so. My consumption has gone up too, because its cold out. I've gone from 70-80 pounds per day to over 100. The temp outside has been way below average for quite sometime now.

I do agree with you that these stoves with the bi metallic regulator don't require a baro or MPD as long as draft pressure is within the manufacturers recommendations. I also agree that stoves with fixed secondary air inlets would suffer worse with draft pressure that went far above OR far below that recommendation.

Just my two cents worth partner.. :)

 
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Post by titleist1 » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 10:57 am

Lightning wrote:I still believe there is something else other than the baro being at fault for the original poster's increase in consumption. He seems to say its been over the course of the last week or so. My consumption has gone up too, because its cold out. I've gone from 70-80 pounds per day to over 100. The temp outside has been way below average for quite sometime now.
This is what I thought initially as well since he said it was about the same consumption for this year before the last week or so. It's not the baro, it's been frickin' cold out and with the wind blowing hard coal consumption even here in the balmy south has jumped over 100lbs for me a few days also.

I suspect I am the same as others with a big increase in coal consumption when the wind blows hard versus when its just cold. And our house is very well sealed with a double wrap of felt paper and tyvek on the walls. For instance last night temp bottomed out at about 3* and the stoker actually satisfied the 'stat and was in pilot mode various times. Last weekend the temp overnight dropped to about 12* but we had heavy wind, the stoker never caught up and I kicked on the propane furnace when I got up to boost the temp from 66 up to 69.

All that said, I agree he probably doesn't need the baro since he has the auto-stat control on his stove.

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 11:45 am

Same here with the crazy wind we had last week end. This was the first time I watched as the little bi-metal flapper behind the Vigilant was fluttering like never before. It couldn't make up it's mind whether to open or close :? It looked like a baseball card in the spokes of a kids bike :lol:
I guess the only way to pin this down is to start a thread asking if those with a bi-metal T-stat AND a baro to give us their thoughts and experience. I have both, but on separate stoves so as they say on "Shark Tank" I'm out!

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 12:03 pm

One or the other is real functional. Both would just be mental masturbation!! There, that should start something :eek2: BUT, it's what in my experience I've found to be true in my setting.


 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 12:36 pm

freetown fred wrote:One or the other is real functional. Both would just be mental masturbation!! There, that should start something :eek2: BUT, it's what in my experience I've found to be true in my setting.
There must be someone with both and too tired to do anything else :lol: :|

 
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northernmainecoal
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Post by northernmainecoal » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 12:45 pm

michaelanthony wrote:
freetown fred wrote:One or the other is real functional. Both would just be mental masturbation!! There, that should start something :eek2: BUT, it's what in my experience I've found to be true in my setting.
There must be someone with both and too tired to do anything else :lol: :|
Too tired for masturbation?!?

I don't have a mpd or baro on my hitzer and haven't ever seen the need for either I guess

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 1:02 pm

northernmainecoal wrote:Too tired for masturbation?!?

I don't have a mpd or baro on my hitzer and haven't ever seen the need for either I guess
Hahaha...my Vigilant has neither and works great also.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 9:37 pm

michaelanthony wrote:
northernmainecoal wrote:Too tired for masturbation?!?

I don't have a mpd or baro on my hitzer and haven't ever seen the need for either I guess
Hahaha...my Vigilant has neither and works great also.
Yes, but your vigilant has a internal bypass damper, and a bi-metallic thermostat. Which are the reasons you don't need MPD, or Baro.. My HITZER's don't need MPD, or Barometric damper either. I've said that right along for years. I installed a Barometric damper strictly for playing with my new draft gauge (I can do that in the shop). Doing a little experimenting to see the different results. The very first night with barometric damper, was when the snow started coming. I went through 1/3 the coal I normally would that night. That was a weather related, false reality. It had me all excited. I knew it was too good to be true. The very next tending, I used a lot more coal with draft setting at -5. The higher the draft, the hotter the bed of coals, the faster the mass heated, the quicker the flapper door shut, the better the heat transferred, and coal usage went down (Back to normal). All the way around, performance improved as I kept inching up the draft. That's when I realized that even though the bi-metallic thermostat, and barometric damper do the same thing, they do it differently. They both stop over drafting. However, when experimenting, I see that when the flapper door pops open on a stove with bi-metallic thermostat, it wants all the draft it can get, as fast as it can get it, in order to heat the mass back up again, closing the flapper, trapping heat in the stove. Where as the barometric damper is set for low recommended draft, and that's it. It's not strong enough to pull the draft needed to make quick heat in a stove with bi-metallic thermostat. The stove will not perform as designed. And yes, I agree. Colder weather eats up more coal. That's a given. However, if the original poster is experiencing my findings, he needs to pull that barometric damper out, and let his stove perform as designed.
Last edited by oliver power on Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 10:15 pm

oliver power wrote: Yes, but your vigilant has a internal bypass damper, and a bi-metallic thermostat. Which are the reasons you don't need MPD, or Baro.. My HITZER's don't need MPD, or Barometric damper either. I've said that right along for years. I installed a Barometric damper strictly for playing with my new draft gauge (I can do that in the shop). Doing a little experimenting to see the different results. The very first night was when the snow started coming. I went through 1/3 the coal I normally would that night. That was a weather related, false reality. The very next tending, I used a lot more coal with draft setting at -5. The higher the draft, the hotter the bed of coals, the faster the mass heated, the quicker the flapper door shut, the better the heat transferred, and coal usage went down (Back to normal). All the way around, performance improved as I kept inching up the draft.
o.p. I wouldn't sleep well with a baro on the Vigilant, the internal passages slow the draft down plenty and a c.o. escape could happen. The elbow 12 inches behind my stove is reading 118 right now with the stove at 340* I don't have degrees to play with.

 
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Post by LoschStoker » Wed. Feb. 18, 2015 11:34 pm

On my DS Stove Circulator 1500 the Company and the dealer said not to use a Barometric damper, that it would pull the air out of the house and up the chimney.
The bi-metal thermostat will take care of every thing.
I do have a manual damper and if it's windy and cold I close it and I'm still over the .06 that they want.
If it's cold and windy the basement is 75*, but I'm still experimenting and it doesn't seem to care what the outside temp is.
I'm on day 23 and I use a 5gal. bucket to 1 1/4 bucket a day.
Last edited by LoschStoker on Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 4:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 6:01 am

That's what I'm using with my 50-93 with this chilly stuff goin on. Bi-metallic is on 14 & she's throwin out some heat:)

 
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Post by LoschStoker » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 4:40 pm

I run it about 430* at the hottest spot on top of the stove, just behind the hopper lid.
The stack temp is well below 200*, I'm using a heat gun.
I have it just below 3 on the Bi-metallic, but they use a different # system, I think 3 is in the middle.


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