DHW Setup

hotblast1357 wrote:One of the reasons for the external system mounted on top the furnace body is it's easily removable, I wouldn't have to shut down my furnace and what would you do with the holes from the coils? Guess have to weld them shut, and with a external kit I wouldn't have to worry about corrosion from coal or anything, I just have to find something that will absorb the heat well, as far as the pump goes, it's worth a try, if it's successful at heating but causes water problems then it'd be worth looking for a proper pump.

I like the idea of the external system for all the reasons listed, however for me, the ability of the coil inside the stove to heat 100% of my DHW and 1 - 6' hydronic baseboard during heating season is worth the added maint. After 15 years my coil failed when I fired the stove up last fall. Very easy to run the stove w/o the coil by making 2 plates w/ gaskets to seal the coil holes and run the stove till I received a replacement coil. I even replaced it w/o shutting the stove down.
The buildup of ash and corrosion from the coal is the biggest pain in my system.

If the intent is to make DHW and run hydronic baseboard heat, it seems like greater consideration should be given to use of a boiler. Boilers generally are very good at doing those things in real time, and I'm under the impression that stoves and furnaces are not. I'd be curious to hear comparisons from people who have done it both ways.

Mike

hotblast1357 wrote:Home-Made Hot Water Collector Finally in Operation

What you waiting for? Get'r done!

Lightning wrote:

McGiever wrote:The common electric models are "on/off"... Not thermostatic.

What happens when volume of hot water demand increases or decreases, for example 3 appliances drawing hot water at the same time? The water is cooler?

Still is "on/off", comes in stages...1,2,3.

Need to buy a thermostatic model, not the plain vanilla.

Made out of 3/4 inch copper, price would be 75 dollars, I was thinking of mounting this on the side of my furnace against the firebox inside the hot air jacket, and then I could set up a temper tank with thermosyphon, I just have one thought with a temper tank, won't my electric tank still run when sitting over night?

hotblast1357 wrote:Made out of 3/4 inch copper, price would be 75 dollars, I was thinking of mounting this on the side of my furnace against the firebox inside the hot air jacket, and then I could set up a temper tank with thermosyphon, I just have one thought with a temper tank, won't my electric tank still run when sitting over night?

If the temper tank is as hot or hotter than the setting on the electric tank it will not run. If the temper tank is slightly cooler,(90*-110*), then the electric tank will run for a very short time, shorter than heating 40* water

Electric tank is at 120, but I don't understand, if no uses the hot water all night then the water in the electric tank is going to cool down and then the electric is gonna kick on?

hotblast1357 wrote:won't my electric tank still run when sitting over night?

It only runs to maintain its temperature which is hardly at all since tanks are well insulated and hold their water temperature for days without power. You can help this also by adding an external fiberglass insulation jacket to the tank and by insulating all the pipes that run from it for at least several feet.

Alright, lightning your rank is high correct, is your drain on the tank level with the return line of the coil? I've read different things here, tank should be level, tank should be above hole coil.

I put my tank up on blocks which gets the top of the tank at just a couple inches under ceiling level (six foot ceiling in the basement). For easiest natural circulation to occur, the bottom drain on the tank should be at least level with the bottom inlet on the coil.

I might get some flack for this here, BUT my best judgment tells me that as long as the top inlet on the tank is higher than the coil and of course it will be (unless you were to lay the tank down, on the floor), it will still naturally circulate. Since heat can only rise, water in the coil has no choice but to go to the top of the tank and then will be replaced by water from the bottom of the tank.

Yes I think the only diffrence is how of the water it heats in the tank.

hotblast1357 wrote:Yes I think the only diffrence is how of the water it heats in the tank.

Theoretically, it should heat all of it.. The water will keep going to the top of the tank and the cooler water from the bottom will keep going into the coil, it won't just stop circulating. It can't or it would boil and continue circulating anyways.

I now that's exactly how I see it, but I believe that if say your bottom of the coil is 1/3 the way up the tank, the bottom 1/3 of the tank won't heat. I THINK

hotblast1357 wrote:I now that's exactly how I see it, but I believe that if say your bottom of the coil is 1/3 the way up the tank, the bottom 1/3 of the tank won't heat. I THINK

The cold water outlet from the tank going to the inlet of the coil needs to be at the least level, higher is better. This allows the cold water to gravity feed to the coil.