Tell Me What to Do, Please

CapeCoaler · Post by **CapeCoaler** » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 10:00 pm

there ya go pic is the answer...
ya need more coal in there...
ya got it going now put another layer 1-2 inches deep at a time till it to the top of the bricks...
in the beginning wait a minute between each layer and leave a small corner of the last layer uncovered...

CapeCoaler · Post by **CapeCoaler** » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 10:03 pm

it will do well once you get the hang of this...
that is a coal stove the bi metallic will give a nice controlled burn...

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 10:08 pm

The stove looks like the Hitzer 55 and such with the downdraft design. Wonder if it has a 'restrictor plate' in it also?

CapeCoaler · Post by **CapeCoaler** » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 10:11 pm

yep kinda of a Hitzer knock off...
even the name EZ as in EZ-Flow for Hitzer...

Stamp · Post by **Stamp** » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 10:17 pm

Thank you!!! Good to know it's going to look black from the top, that's what was throwing me off. A little late though

I said hell with it and tossed a couple chunks of wood on top of it, so I could get to bed, where I should have been 2 hrs ago. I decided what ever didn't burn I would just tip the grates and dump in the am. This is wearing me down, some days it seems it would be better to just go back to not having heat in the main house. If I try again tomorrow after work, you said "till it to the top of the bricks" how do I do that with the opening on the side towards the chimney? Not sure about any restrictor plate, do I need to know this?

Yes the cap screen needs cleaned, with record colds and snow, not really a good way to get on the roof to clean it out. Do I really need the screen on there? I keep telling him I need to add more pipe to the roof section, but he knows more about stoves then me, he has been burning them for years and said it's just because the stove doesn't get hot enough.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 10:23 pm

Yes, you need to know about a possible restrictor plate and how to remove it for burning coal. Call the manufacturer and ask them. Hitzer had to add one to meet UL listing guidelines.

Also, the handle on the 'hinge' side of your load door, is that the direct/indirect draft control? If so, try leaving it in the other position to see if the stove burns better or worse.

Get rid of the screen on the cap.

CapeCoaler · Post by **CapeCoaler** » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 10:31 pm

is he a wood burner?...
Coal is different...
You can loose the screen if you do coal, no sparks...
Then no clogging issues...
Take a pic of the outside pipe that shows the roof peak/peaks...
Trust me if you get this burnin for 12 hours with loadin twice a day...
You will get a nice surprise...
Toasty warm house...
The BF will come around...
Pics will tell more about the need for more outdoor pipe...
I will look for a pdf manual that will help...

Thomas12980 · Post by **Thomas12980** » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 10:35 pm

if the coal is burning properly you should see an orange glow in the ashpan. this is from the grates heating up under the coal bed. also it was told to me to empty the ashpan when you see a layer of ash. the heated ash still gives off gases which can smother a coal flame.

SMITTY · Post by **SMITTY** » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 10:39 pm

You'll see the glow when it's first lit, or after you shake down, but that's not a sign of a good burn ....

As the coal burns, that glow will slowly disappear.

CapeCoaler · Post by **CapeCoaler** » Thu. Feb. 19, 2015 11:25 pm

http://www.cowboycharcoal.com/wheretobuy.html
That is for Ohio...
Link to the Riteway 37 manual go to section 11 as it says...
Vintage Riteway Model 37 Teardown Inspection
I would leave the direct draft in the open/directdraft position to begin...
Start of the Riteway 37 teardown nice pics will show what everybody is talkin about...
Vintage Riteway Model 37 Teardown Inspection

Link to Hitzer 55...
http://www.hitzer.com/products/stove/Model-55/
Then go to 55 instructions in the documents section...

CapeCoaler · Post by **CapeCoaler** » Fri. Feb. 20, 2015 12:02 am

So you want the arm that is across the door blocking it shut in the posted pics...
to be in the up position or direct draft or door unblocked...
All the time...
Across the door is downdraft or indirect and is most of your problems...
Buy 5 bags of nut coal and a 20 lb bag of cowboy charcoal and a16 oz bottle of gel fire starter...
That stove when filled will take at least 40 lbs of coal...
The charcoal and gel will last all season...
The angled bricks will get covered, not an issue...
just burn in direct draft, you can Google the Riteway 37and read about the reasons once you are warm...
once this is burning properly get some more coal...

Post by **Lightning** » Fri. Feb. 20, 2015 9:23 pm

The pic of the fire on the previous page is perfect, it just needs more coal. You need an 8-10 inch depth of coal when yer done adding layers. Heat output is controlled by the incoming amount combustion air.

Stamp · Post by **Stamp** » Sat. Feb. 21, 2015 5:39 pm

Weather did not permit me to go see if anyone around had the Cowboy Charcoal today. I have about 30 lbs of coal here right now, weather permitting the earliest I can get anymore would be tomorrow afternoon. Should I try again with that tonight?

Here's a pic of the stove pipe on the roof.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Sat. Feb. 21, 2015 5:54 pm

If you get much wind coming over the higher roof ,it will likely cause down draft or at least hinder the up-draft.Best thing would be to add a 3-4' section.

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Sat. Feb. 21, 2015 6:41 pm

With only 30lbs of coal on hand I wouldn't bother burning it tonight.

I would think the stove would need more than that to fill it up and burn correctly.