How Much Space for EFM 520?

Really did not mean to post the Baro, but yes that is included also.

Nice find! Looking forward to reading about the renovation and installation. You won't regret this.

Thanks,
I don't think I will regret it either.

I already KNOW you won't!

Im sure youll make a fine couple

Going from an OWB with all the labor involved ,to an EFM stoker, NO REGRETS ~~~~~~~~~~~ WAIT !!! There will be 1 regret ~~~~ why didn't I do this instead of the OWB ???

Next step, asking you guys for help with the plumbing install.
I plan on doing this myself, I don't have any issues with pipe install it is just that I would like some feedback on what I plan to do.

1. I plan to locate the 520 about 8- 10' from my existing boiler, this is just the way my basement is laid out with the existing walls.
2. I plan to run 1.5" for supply and return with a bypass at 1.25" at the 520, I am doing this because it is the way my existing system is installed.
3. I will utilize my existing make-up water and valve in a line to fill system.
4. I will be using Glycol in my system.
5. That's about all I have so far.

I am an electrician by trade and have no issues with this part and probably will overkill this end of it, and do not mind making the plumbing side top notch also. I just want to make sure that I am utilizing all of the BTU's the 520 has to offer.

I little info about my existing system 1.5" header on supply and return with 4 zones on circulator pumps (Taco 007), with a 1.25" bypass between the supply and return.

Anyway, thanks in advance for any advice.
I can add any pics of existing system for anyone who wants

Glycol, for just in case emergency?

Heat transfer will be reduced due to glycol. Your wallet will be reduced also.

Think about ways to work around having to ever use glycol.

Drain down below frost line when needed.
Start back-up shed space heater with using propain rather than just total shut down.

I was not familiar with impact that glycol has on heat transfer when I had my heating system installed, we decided to go with air handlers that have a hot water heat exchanger inside and the reason for the glycol is the second floor zone that is installed in my attic an unheated space, ie glycol.
I am very open to alternatives, to work around the need for this but this is what I was told was required for my arrangement. If I had it to do over again I think I would go with baseboard radiators and a separate AC system instead of combining them. There is always a budget when building a house and this is just one of the items that budget dictated.

Let's see some pictures of the existing system.

coal stoker wrote:I was not familiar with impact that glycol has on heat transfer when I had my heating system installed, we decided to go with air handlers that have a hot water heat exchanger inside and the reason for the glycol is the second floor zone that is installed in my attic an unheated space, ie glycol.
I am very open to alternatives, to work around the need for this but this is what I was told was required for my arrangement. If I had it to do over again I think I would go with baseboard radiators and a separate AC system instead of combining them. There is always a budget when building a house and this is just one of the items that budget dictated.

So, glycol is not a requirement for the total system???

Maybe it would not be worth the bother to even think about changing anything at this point???

If it is just the one zone, perhaps the simplest fix would be a flat plate exchanger and then only that small portion of the system in the attic with the glycol protection.

I was thinking the same or possibly just having this zone circulator running all the time it is the furthest appliance from the boiler and like you said the only part of my system that requires glycol, and also the glycol is in fact an emergency back-up for power loss or heat failure.
I have a standby genset in place that runs on propane, so that solves the power issue just would have to ensure that the oil fired boiler was always ready to fire if coal goes south on me.
I guess what I am trying tio say is it would need to be an auto set-up.

Yes if you can go without propylene glycol thats fine. I have a efm in a remote building and if the power goes out that and the outdoor piping which is insulated but not below the frost line I don't want freezing up . If you do use p glycol it does carry less BTU per gallon and you may want to increase your pipe size if you situation is close . I also recommend a very good high pressure test to last over night as glycol has tendencies to find the leaks that woudne occur otherwise Yes it is expensive another reason t o have a good test

I am wanting to take advantage of the off season and purchase next winters coal. I can get it from Lehigh, but this my first purchase of coal and don't want to get a load of something that will not burn well in the 520.
Anyone have any advice or experiences they want to share.
Thanks in advance
Chris

I burned Lehigh rice in my EFM 520 all winter, it has been fantastic. If you can get some, go for it.