New Shaking Technique Rocks!

 
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Stoker6268
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Post by Stoker6268 » Thu. Mar. 05, 2015 4:53 pm

Well since I got my stove I was always using short choppy quick shakes per didirections in manual and advice of this forum. I used to have to shake 10-20 times and still felt all/most of ash wasnt removed.
I recently started using slow long deliberate strokes and the ash "falls out easily". About 4 strokes is all it takes. I don't hhave to poke anymore either. Also getting much longer times between shaking. Current temps in 20s getting 24-36 hours between shakes. Not saying its for everyone, but it works for me!


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Thu. Mar. 05, 2015 5:00 pm

That will work great stoker, till something jams those grates up--that's to say the least--not fun--of course tending every 12 hrs has been suggested by every hand fired owner I know. Keep us posted.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Mar. 05, 2015 5:18 pm

Yep, be careful, long arcs on the shake gives opportunity for jamming. If ya do get a jam don't force it, work it out with a poker.. :)

 
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Stoker6268
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Post by Stoker6268 » Thu. Mar. 05, 2015 6:06 pm

I was worried about jamming. Especially with pea coal. But the pea actually seems to not jam like nut did.

 
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Post by coalder » Thu. Mar. 05, 2015 6:37 pm

Stoker, I hear ya, I've been doin just that for past two weeks, and it has worked real good. But tonight had a major malfunction. Grates are now locked up tighter than a bulls ass in a chain binder. Must of overdid it a tad. I'll just let her burn owt & see what happens in AM. Oh well still laernin.
Jim

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Thu. Mar. 05, 2015 7:41 pm

If you're careful, you can get away with the first few strokes being long. Better start shortening the instant you feel anything other than powdered ash. If you do get a jam, quite often it can be left till next tending time. By then it may be powder. As mentioned, don't force anything.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Thu. Mar. 05, 2015 7:45 pm

Stoker6268 wrote:I was worried about jamming. Especially with pea coal. But the pea actually seems to not jam like nut did.
I haven't tried pea in the 50-93. Always used nut. However, I found pea jams easier in the 30-95 with it's single grate. Nut burns great in the 30-95. Pea is good for shop. Actually, with my recent test results, I should go back to nut.


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Thu. Mar. 05, 2015 9:17 pm

Silly people at Hitzer, DO recommend nut. ;)

 
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davidmcbeth3
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Post by davidmcbeth3 » Fri. Mar. 06, 2015 3:02 am

Lightning wrote:Yep, be careful, long arcs on the shake gives opportunity for jamming. If ya do get a jam don't force it, work it out with a poker.. :)
That's why he only does 4 shakes !

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Mar. 06, 2015 5:43 am

Thanks. I woulda never figured that out..

 
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Post by ddahlgren » Fri. Mar. 06, 2015 11:43 am

Stoker6268 wrote:Well since I got my stove I was always using short choppy quick shakes per didirections in manual and advice of this forum. I used to have to shake 10-20 times and still felt all/most of ash wasnt removed.
I recently started using slow long deliberate strokes and the ash "falls out easily". About 4 strokes is all it takes. I don't hhave to poke anymore either. Also getting much longer times between shaking. Current temps in 20s getting 24-36 hours between shakes. Not saying its for everyone, but it works for me!
I am new to all this coal burning this year and gave this a tray and you actually hear the beginning of a clinker crunching and hope breaking. I don't think it is going to replace poking for me but might shorten that task.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Mar. 06, 2015 12:50 pm

Many hand fired stoves differ--as do shaking techniques. What's good for the goose, is not necessarily good for the gander ;)

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Mar. 06, 2015 12:58 pm

freetown fred wrote:Many hand fired stoves differ--as do shaking techniques. What's good for the goose, is not necessarily good for the gander ;)
True Fred. There's so many different designs/shapes of grate systems that there could never be a one size fits all method.
Then factor in the different coal sizes and peculiarities by brand of coal and it's no wonder that new owners get confused.

As a friend says, "Don't worry - there's only about 20 things you can do wrong." :D

Paul

 
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Post by ddahlgren » Fri. Mar. 06, 2015 1:24 pm

I will report back how the long slow shakes work on my Crane 404 with Blaschack nut coal. I had already poked the grates when I tried it but did sound very encouraging. I am in and out of the house all the time so possibly a few slow shakes that break things up will help with clinks because I am real good ay making them.

Just tried it and no crunch noises this time no glow in the ash pan but coal did drop a couple inches so a lot of ash had to either come out or compress.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Fri. Mar. 06, 2015 2:03 pm

Crane 404 has grates that slide front to back,you can't dump the coal bed no matter how little or how far you move the lever. The Hitzer has flat grates that rock side to side,if rocked far enough,you can literally dump the coal into the ash pan. dd,there is no way to compare the shaking method of these 2 stoves ,no comparison,this is not to bad mouth or criticize one or the other. You just can't compare a yam to an apple. If you had "rocker" grates in your stove,then you could try this method.With the Crane & it's cam activated,sliding grates , you can do either long or short strokes without much change in the outcome.


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