Newbie With Manometer Use Question

 
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ncpajohn
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Post by ncpajohn » Mon. Mar. 09, 2015 4:49 pm

What reading am I looking for on this stove and once the barometer is set do I have to keep resetting it ? :D

Or do I keep the manometer hooked up to monitor the draft to adjust the air intake at the ash pan door to maintain the correct W.C. based on the changing outside air temp. ??


 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Mon. Mar. 09, 2015 4:50 pm

ncpajohn wrote:where does the other hose go. ?
...missed this one, simply cut a 2 - 3 inch piece of hose and stick it on the "high" port on the manometer and let it droop down towards the floor keeping dust and debris out of the line.

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Mon. Mar. 09, 2015 4:54 pm

ncpajohn wrote:What reading am I looking for on this stove and once the barometer is set do I have to keep resetting it ? :D

Or do I keep the manometer hooked up to monitor the draft to adjust the air intake at the ash pan door to maintain the correct W.C. based on the changing outside air temp. ??

-.03 to -.06 works for most of us, I have not needed to adjust my baro this season but on occasion I will move the mpd during high winds.

 
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ncpajohn
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska model 140
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Coal Size/Type: Anthracite / Nut
Other Heating: Nat Gas

Post by ncpajohn » Mon. Mar. 09, 2015 5:05 pm

Thanks.

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Mar. 09, 2015 6:31 pm

If you burn wood you can get a creosote accumulation on the back of the damper. I recommend removing the baro and capping the port if you burn wood. With coal, some installs will accumulate ash and it should be brushed off as frequently as needed. As long as it is clean, there is little need to recalibrate. Any little weight added will affect its performance, it is a very delicate balancing act.

 
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ncpajohn
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska model 140
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Other Heating: Nat Gas

Post by ncpajohn » Tue. Mar. 10, 2015 8:28 pm

I am grateful for all your help. I will be getting a newer house later this year. Can anyone help with advice on the best coal furnace for the money that I can get. I am interested in a basement type hand fed with the shaker grates, etc..

 
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SWPaDon
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Post by SWPaDon » Tue. Mar. 10, 2015 8:36 pm

ncpajohn wrote:I am grateful for all your help. I will be getting a newer house later this year. Can anyone help with advice on the best coal furnace for the money that I can get. I am interested in a basement type hand fed with the shaker grates, etc..
I've been looking at the DS Machine Stoves Kozy King myself: http://woodstoves.net/ds-stoves/wood/ds-machine-s ... urnace.htm.

I was also looking at the Hitzer 82FA: http://hitzer.com/products/stove/Model-82-Furnace/ But I'm not crazy about the grates.


 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Tue. Mar. 10, 2015 8:56 pm

ditto what SWPaDon said^^^^^.

 
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ncpajohn
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska model 140
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Post by ncpajohn » Tue. Mar. 10, 2015 9:41 pm

I have been interested in the hot water tube. But wouldn't the water get too hot for domestic use or how does that work ? I would guess a pre heater tank for storage. ?? but would you have to use a mixing valve to add cold water to get a safe temp. ??
Thanks again...

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Wed. Mar. 11, 2015 9:07 am

ncpajohn wrote:I have been interested in the hot water tube. But wouldn't the water get too hot for domestic use or how does that work ? I would guess a pre heater tank for storage. ?? but would you have to use a mixing valve to add cold water to get a safe temp. ??
Thanks again...
Many ways of going about it, a coal boiler may be your answer. You can also search "Thermosiphon" in the search box.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Wed. Mar. 11, 2015 9:41 am

ncpajohn wrote:I have been interested in the hot water tube. But wouldn't the water get too hot for domestic use or how does that work ? I would guess a pre heater tank for storage. ?? but would you have to use a mixing valve to add cold water to get a safe temp. ??
Thanks again...
I'm using the same unit as you, here is a link to my hot DHW setup that has been working very well for the last 3 years..

Hot Water Coil Project

I use a separate "preheat" tank that flows into the electric tank during hot water demand..

 
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ncpajohn
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska model 140
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Other Heating: Nat Gas

Post by ncpajohn » Thu. Mar. 12, 2015 10:46 pm

Hello good people of Coal country. I just got my Manometer today, I need advice on how to properly set it up. and what temperature do I get the stove burning at for the best results. I have a stack thermometer and a magnetic one on the firebox, just above the feed door. Does it have to be done on a windy day. ??
I just discovered I had the grates upside down, I turned them around tonight. As The stove had gone cold. After I get the baro adjusted right, I have to learn over time what settings for the air feed in the ash pan door. But I am sold on coal.. I have not had this warm a house since I bought it 5 years ago.. With just one fuel source. I have had to use natural gas and electric as back-up heat. With the gas going on when the wood fire died down when I was not home. I just got the bills for feb. I saved about 53.00 on gas and 25.00 or so on electric. Spent the same on coal as I would have spent on wood.

Thanks again everyone..

 
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michaelanthony
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Other Heating: Fujitsu mini split, FHA oil furnace

Post by michaelanthony » Fri. Mar. 13, 2015 8:18 am

ncpajohn wrote:Hello good people of Coal country. I just got my Manometer today, I need advice on how to properly set it up. and what temperature do I get the stove burning at for the best results. I have a stack thermometer and a magnetic one on the firebox, just above the feed door. Does it have to be done on a windy day. ??
I just discovered I had the grates upside down, I turned them around tonight. As The stove had gone cold. After I get the baro adjusted right, I have to learn over time what settings for the air feed in the ash pan door. But I am sold on coal.. I have not had this warm a house since I bought it 5 years ago.. With just one fuel source. I have had to use natural gas and electric as back-up heat. With the gas going on when the wood fire died down when I was not home. I just got the bills for feb. I saved about 53.00 on gas and 25.00 or so on electric. Spent the same on coal as I would have spent on wood.

Thanks again everyone..
A good place to start: Dwyer Mark II Manometer
Good luck on your journey the light at the end of the tunnel is very bright!

 
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ncpajohn
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Posts: 47
Joined: Fri. Feb. 27, 2015 10:42 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska model 140
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: U.S.S.C. Model 1557M
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite / Nut
Other Heating: Nat Gas

Post by ncpajohn » Fri. Mar. 13, 2015 9:57 pm

Thanks again.
MichaelAnthony, Question. Can you post a photo of your meter on the .03- .06 settings so I know what to look for on my meter, that is the model 26 that goes to #7 as that is what I got also. I cant tell how to read it as most of the photos on here are of the meter that goes to # 3.
Also how do I hook it up backwards as I have seen reference to this being better to show the readings.
Thanks again.

 
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michaelanthony
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Coal Size/Type: 'nut
Other Heating: Fujitsu mini split, FHA oil furnace

Post by michaelanthony » Fri. Mar. 13, 2015 10:21 pm

ncpajohn wrote:Thanks again.
MichaelAnthony, Question. Can you post a photo of your meter on the .03- .06 settings so I know what to look for on my meter, that is the model 26 that goes to #7 as that is what I got also. I cant tell how to read it as most of the photos on here are of the meter that goes to # 3.
Also how do I hook it up backwards as I have seen reference to this being better to show the readings.
Thanks again.
Hooking up backwards mean to connect the rubber hose flue pipe to "low" port on the manometer, this way it reads to the right on the scale.
It was windy when I took this pic and she was reading .06 - .08......these numbers are "technically a negative reading" and many times we fai l to note that unless there is a problem ;)

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