Field Controls Type RC Left or Right for Counterweight???

Hi michaelanthony, Does the baro need to be a good distance from the stove outlet? I can move it but for now I've got a full load of coal to burn up. I'm not using the bypass just running it in straight configuration. Seems nicely settled @300* with 4 turns out on the draft spinner. Also would like to know how many shakes does the big Clayton need? Most everyone said my Hitzer needs it twice a day, so every 12 hrs. I shake it down, reload the hopper and it almost acts like it's on auto-pilot. BTW the baro on the hitzer is close to the stove outlet. Had to keep piping as compact as possible due to space limits of my hearth.

Mike's right, you wanna be able to run it with the bypass pushed in. I wanted to demonstrate that for you by putting a temp gauge on the pipe. With the bypass pushed in you should see a bigger temp spread between the furnace gauge and the pipe gauge than without it pushed in.

Shaking interval depends on how hard you need to run it. I'm doing 24 hour cycles right now but during extreme cold I'll do 18 or 12 hour intervals. For now, I would suggest you do 12s till you learn the burn a little bit..

deepwoods wrote:Hi michaelanthony, Does the baro need to be a good distance from the stove outlet? I can move it but for now I've got a full load of coal to burn up. I'm not using the bypass just running it in straight configuration. Seems nicely settled @300* with 4 turns out on the draft spinner. Also would like to know how many shakes does the big Clayton need? Most everyone said my Hitzer needs it twice a day, so every 12 hrs. I shake it down, reload the hopper and it almost acts like it's on auto-pilot. BTW the baro on the hitzer is close to the stove outlet. Had to keep piping as compact as possible due to space limits of my hearth.

I have the baro on my box approx 4 ft away from the stove at the peak of the diagonal incline, ( about 60 degree incline ), and then a foot and a half to the chimney, you'll be surprised how much heat can wash off the pipe before the baro. The 'T' where the baro sits is only 120* or so. Like Lightning say's the difference in temp locations / coal used is a good indication of efficiency...less heat up the stack.

lee & mike thanks much for the input! Going to move the baro up and switch it for the 24" pipe. I have a second mag thermometer I can then put on the longer pipe as lee said. Also thanks for the shake schedule, every 12 hrs will be fine for me.
I got brave 20 minutes ago and pushed that bypass in again. Just checked and running @ 390* on front face. Does not seem to be going south as it did earlier. time will tell.

Just one thing to consider, there are only a couple things that all hand fired stoves need to do in order to run properly and it sounds like you have a handle on them, the rest is fine tuning, tinkering, etc. As long as it is safe, do what you feel is best for your situation. Stay warm my friend!

mike, just shook her down, almost a 12 hr. run. Got sparks all along that LONG set of grates. I put it back into bypass after the shake and still have a real nice fire with bright coals and short blue flames with temp @ 350* I am not going to refill it but let it burn out so I can change the baro location. Will post a pic when I get it changed. I suppose I should look into manometers. I expect prices & quality on them are widely varying?

A lot of up use this one. It's cheap, Reliable and easy to install..

Dwyer Mark II model 25

deepwoods wrote:mike, just shook her down, almost a 12 hr. run. Got sparks all along that LONG set of grates. I put it back into bypass after the shake and still have a real nice fire with bright coals and short blue flames with temp @ 350* I am not going to refill it but let it burn out so I can change the baro location. Will post a pic when I get it changed. I suppose I should look into manometers. I expect prices & quality on them are widely varying?

Most everyone that uses a manometer on here is using this: http://www.amazon.com/Dwyer-25-Manometer-Inclined ... +manometer

Lee, beat me to it, LOL

SWPaDon wrote:Lee, beat me to it, LOL

Call me anything you want except late for breakfast

Going to check out your tip on the Dwyer manometer. Was looking in the operator's manual for this monster and Clayton says it is designed to operate @ .06 inches of water column. We shall see. I know that my chimney drafts strongly. It is mostly within the house and is about 30 feet from the basement to the top.
Got the baro relocated as in the pic. A little over half way toward the thimble.
I let the clayton go out last night. House was waaayyy to warm with the Hitzer running upstairs and it was really throttled down. Anyhow coal left in the Clayton is partially unburned. Can I kind of recycle this half burned stuff? Possibly add it to a burning fire? Hate to waste it but if so the drive way at this time of the year will love it. I am going to wait a while until the weather shows a definite warming trend and shut the Hitzer down and fire up the Clayton again. Hopefully have a manometer by then and be able to tell you what's goin on.
Went to coal dealer this AM and got 30 more bags of nut. Must get coal storage built soon! This bagged stuff aint cheap @ $6.00/bag. My S10 was showing it had some weight on it

Nice job dw, this way you can pop the baro off and vacuum right and left!

Nice pictures too. Really helps explaining things.