Glenwood Base Heater With a Crack

the fire pot looks good, are you using the orig. sheet metal barrel? I would if It is good enough. wilson

wilsons woodstoves wrote:the fire pot looks good, are you using the orig. sheet metal barrel? I would if It is good enough. wilson

Ya for now I think im going to patch it and use it. Its not perfect but it should work fine. ill post some pics in a few weeks when I get to working on it. I almost thought about having one re made but taller to pull more heat out of the stove but I didn't wanna go thru all that trouble and find it changed the dynamics of the stove to were it wouldn't draft properly. Iv read a thread were William commented on a g113 or a g111 (I cant remember) that had the extended barrel, and thought y not try it on the g6, but like I said I really don't wanna tear down a fresh rebuild , After the co detectors start chirping at me...............

A few more pics I'm test fitting the barrel with a few braces I made up. Not sure if im going to go with flat rope gasket or use stove cement were the berral meets the face plate.

I'm no expert, but if you can fit an asbestos gasket in there, I'll bet it'll last longer than the cement. I would think with the cement, the expansion and contraction from the heat, may cause it to crack. Maybe?

joeq wrote:I'm no expert, but if you can fit an asbestos gasket in there, I'll bet it'll last longer than the cement. I would think with the cement, the expansion and contraction from the heat, may cause it to crack. Maybe?

I agree a small size rope gasket should work out fine, if you can get it in the top seem also. nice job on the metal braces. looks good. let us know how the gasket works out. I use the cream color furnace cement(buy it at home depot) does not dry so hard and brittle.I think emery uses the same. wilson

Hercules Furnace Cement. It has a fiber filler in it which allows it to remain flexible and strong. Rutland Cement is worthless. It dries and cracks out.
Now be very, very, very careful with the rope gasket. These stoves weren't made for them. Seams that can't flex or are to tight is asking for a cracked casting. Trust the original designers. They had everything worked out to great detail.

Now I don't think it will hurt where you attach the barrel to the front casting to have a flat gasket behind those braces if you want. If it makes you feel better put them in there.

joeq wrote:I'm no expert, but if you can fit an asbestos gasket in there, I'll bet it'll last longer than the cement. I would think with the cement, the expansion and contraction from the heat, may cause it to crack. Maybe?

Nope, sealed mine up with fender washers and a high quality cement. Not a crack to be seen.

As William suggested in a earlyer post I found this at lowes and love it so far. The seam were the barrel meets the pot will will have the cement and I'll try and do the seam were the barrel bolts to face if I can figure out a clean way of doing it

On a side note to William how did your g113 perform this winter ? would you possibly be able to do a write up on it. Just curious because it's a rare and there's only a few with a g113. I would love to get my hands on a suspended fire pot base burner to try some day.

Played for a bit on an American antique on this beautiful holiday.
I went with Williams suggestion and used cement for the seam at the barrel and the face plate. It turned out a lot easyer than I thought. Time for a nice cigar and a cold beer.

Nice pictures. Thanx for sharing.

Coming together nicely. It won't be long now. Your on the home stretch.

Up date to all who are following. Gas rings are installed and cemented in. The back manifold pieces have been wire wheeled and coated in polish.
I now have to make the diverter flap for the back and then it can be assembled. That was the only thing missing on the stove when I bought it.

Lookin good.

Played for a bit tonight at my father in laws welding shop made one of the most important pieces on this old girl.

Great job on your diverter. Now comes the fun part. Assembly.