Glenwood Base Heater With a Crack

joeq wrote:

Merc300d wrote:Paul .. I hope you don't mind but as soon as humanely possible I'm borrowing the molds to make me a few sets. That's the coolest thing I've seen with stove restoration. You are Definetly a professional. Good show

Uh oh! It's begun Paul. "Borrowing!?" Better get them things locked up in your safe. I'm sure Paul has an "extra" set of bricks Merc, that he'ld be glad to give you, for a "small" casting fee.

Hahah !! No problem. Paul ?

Merc300d wrote:Paul .. I hope you don't mind but as soon as humanely possible I'm borrowing the molds to make me a few sets. That's the coolest thing I've seen with stove restoration. You are Definetly a professional. Good show

Nice try, Kevin.

The molds were promised to Wilson before I even finished making them. This fire brick project started out to be for my range, over a year ago. It turned into the #6 brick project so that I would only need to learn how by making two molds for the #6 instead of where the range needs six molds. Wilson has helped me with both brick projects.

And I can tell you, having seen the bricks he made for my Sunny, your better off if he makes the bricks than if I do.

The molds are boxed up and will be on their way to him tomorrow. Anyone who wants sets of fire bricks for a #6 will have to contact Wilson.

Paul

Well I busted my goal. I wanted the stove done by September first so I could goose and duck hunt without a project waiting for me at home. Close but no cigar except in my stocked up humidor.

Any way, I have the rear barrel plate and inner screen machined, rolled, drilled, and painted. I could have used fender washer but I wanted a screen so I'm not fishing coal out of my base pan jan 18 when it's 10* out. I'm sandwiching the two plates to cover the rot on the exhaust hole on the barrel. My redneck farm fix should work. I also finally got a decent piece of mica from Amazon and installed that as well on the door. Final assembly I'm hoping will be complete by the end of Labor Day.

Canaan coal man wrote:Well I busted my goal. I wanted the stove done by September first so I could goose and duck hunt without a project waiting for me at home. Close but no cigar.
Final assembly I'm hoping will be complete by the end of Labor Day.

Better get on the stick CC. Times a tickin .

nice job on the spark guard and bracket. you have to have them ,a patch on the barrel gives character
wilson

wilsons woodstoves wrote:nice job on the spark guard and bracket. you have to have them ,a patch on the barrel gives character
wilson

Ya the spark guard is 3/16 cold rolled. I milled all the slots in with my haas at work, it should be thick enough to hold up to the temps

ya I never thought of that "character" good thinken wilson.

joeq wrote:

Canaan coal man wrote:Well I busted my goal. I wanted the stove done by September first so I could goose and duck hunt without a project waiting for me at home. Close but no cigar.
Final assembly I'm hoping will be complete by the end of Labor Day.

Better get on the stick CC. Times a tickin .

I guess I could burn in the stove right now but all my windows will have to stay open

It's amazing what u can get done with a full day off and some motivation. But she's done just need to polish the old nickel and hook up to the chimney. The back diverter pipe was a pain u have to set everything perfictly square to get it all to line up. I fully understand why the pros get 3000$ for a professional refurb. My stove is not pretty at all, Iv got furnice cement every wear I have know idea how the pros keep um so clean looken. Oh well at least I know all my seams are tight and ready for winter. It was a fun summer project now it's time for a few pics. I'll post pics with the finished nickel later.

Sorry about the photos damn iPad has a mind if it's own and I don't have enough of a mind to rotate them.

Looks like you are almost there. Welcome to the Glenwood BB club it's going to be a warm winter for you.

I fully understand why the pros get 3000$ for a professional refurb.

It's not the pros who do that, it's the talentless and/or lazy. I have not cleaned up the tissue from wiping the thumb print off the foot bar of my #8.

Another finished, (almost) project. Get some acetone, or mineral spirits CC, and wipe down that excess glue. Then wipe the whole stove with some polish to blend it all together. Looks good, and at least we have another member ready for the winter.

joeq wrote:Another finished, (almost) project. Get some acetone, or mineral spirits CC, and wipe down that excess glue. Then wipe the whole stove with some polish to blend it all together. Looks good, and at least we have another member ready for the winter.

Ya that's a good idea was gonna have the wife touch it up on a rainy Sunday , she has way more patience then I.

So my next project for the stove is Iv got a pile of dull nickel trim. What do u guys recommend for a buffing cream ?

Listen to William. Look in the ash pit And put your hand in the right rear corner. If the metal is twisted down at all, leave the stove. That is the place where the hot gases descend below the ash pit and that is the hottest spot on the stove. If that is twisted the whole bottom has problems and is not worth the trouble.
Next is price. There are lots of these around and you should have a top limit in mind. I walk away on a regular basis and still buy lots of stoves. Skip Mull and I will both go to about $600-$700 for a cream puff. If it is cracked etc. then it needs to be less since you must source expensive parts. Skip spent two hours yesterday cutting briars in my junkyard to retrieve an oven wall for a hard to find range. I need to go to his place to get a dome that I need. It all adds up to time, travel, money in the end. Try to figure out the final cost before starting. If you pay that high price it just encourages others to ask those prices and the finished stoves will just be out of reach.

I forgot. For buffing try a soft wheel and white rouge. That's what we use.