To Rebarrel, or Not to Rebarrel, That Is the Question...

Whether 'tis nobler to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune or...oops, wrong forum.

So, what's the odds of not having to rebarrel a one hundred year old stove or should I just go ahead and plan on doing so? Seems sound but until I get it stripped down I can't really tell its condition.

When in doubt--do it right!! Don't put the horse before the carriage, get er cleaned up.

tmbrddl wrote:Whether 'tis nobler to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune or...oops, wrong forum.

So, what's the odds of not having to rebarrel a one hundred year old stove or should I just go ahead and plan on doing so? Seems sound but until I get it stripped down I can't really tell its condition.

Neither can we.

Look carefully at the bottom flanged edge of the barrel - where it sits into the recess in the top edge of the firepot. That's one of the common places for the sheet metal to be rusted away. If it's not too bad, refractory sealer will take care of small rusted out spots , but you need most of that barrel's bottom lip and it has to have enough metal left to be fairly strong to hold the barrel on.

Paul

Or..."Don't fix, what's not broke". (If it "really" isn't broke.)

If you do have a new one made make sure the person making it knows what there doing. I has to be a exact replacement or it will not fit. Also the flange needs to be correct as well. Its not an easy job so find someone with experience.

grumpy wrote:If you do have a new one made make sure the person making it knows what there doing. I has to be a exact replacement or it will not fit. Also the flange needs to be correct as well. Its not an easy job so find someone with experience.

I found a guy who made the new barrel for my Glenwood Oak 30. He did a great job and it fit perfectly.

I'm anxious to start tearing this one down but I'm still concerned with finding suitable bolts to put it back together. Not so easy as it would seem.

Don't worry , you will find what you need, it's out there..

I wonder if car restoration places might have the vintage nuts and bolts you need. I don't think Chevy got the nick name 'stove bolt' for nothing... If nothing else if you find nothing possibly a niche biz for a mom and pop machine shop to make reproduction hardware for old stoves. Do remember there was no such thing as standard diameters or thread pitch way back when that was made.

As far as sheet metal work I would be inclined to find a shop that does aviation work as they work to under 1/64 of an inch every day, Sure it will be more money but you only have to buy it once.

I thought one of the professional restorers might chime in as bolts would have to be an issue with them as well. I can't imagine tearing one of these down and salvaging many of the original bolts.

The barrel does seem to be quite sound and I'll know more once I take at it. Anxious to get started but have been busy with other things...like we all are.

Most of you have probably seen Bryant Stove mentioned here before. They are a fairly well known antique stove dealer, both here and nationally. I used the same guy to build my barrel that they use to supply theirs. Top notch work!

Just dawned on me...note to self: call Bryant's about bolts. Duh!

tmbrddl wrote:Just dawned on me...note to self: call Bryant's about bolts. Duh!

You can get square head bolts and lots more from McMaster-Carr.

dj