Manometer Arrived, Some ??

It's a Dwyer MK11 Mod 25.Got the basics of filling, leveling, zeroing. I have tried a search here on manometers and understand inserting 1/8" brake pipe into the stack. Someone said you must insert the 1/8" pipe into a vertical length of your stack. Trouble is I have no vertical pipe sections, only a constant slope from stove to thimble. Not many options for me if that is the case.

deepwoods wrote:It's a Dwyer MK11 Mod 25.Got the basics of filling, leveling, zeroing. I have tried a search here on manometers and understand inserting 1/8" brake pipe into the stack. Someone said you must insert the 1/8" pipe into a vertical length of your stack. Trouble is I have no vertical pipe sections, only a constant slope from stove to thimble. Not many options for me if that is the case.

No worries, I was told a foot or so if possible after the breech of the stove and before and dampers. Your good on the horizontal just insert it on top of the pipe so fly ash won't plug it up.

Thank you! Does the brake pipe have to be straight or can it be bent (not kinked) 90* to get away from the heat of the pipe and aim it in the direction of where I plan to set up the manometer?? Also I read that 2" of brake pipe is about what is needed inserted into the stove pipe?

deepwoods wrote:Thank you! Does the brake pipe have to be straight or can it be bent (not kinked) 90* to get away from the heat of the pipe and aim it in the direction of where I plan to set up the manometer?? Also I read that 2" of brake pipe is about what is needed inserted into the stove pipe?

Yep. Yer all good with that.

Thanks Lee. Now I gotta get to NAPA for brake pipe.........................

deepwoods wrote:Thanks Lee. Now I gotta get to NAPA for brake pipe.........................

Do you have a tubing bender? If not, they would probably bend it for you.

A curl at the end will keep it hanging in the hole. It should go into the pipe an inch at the very least. Vertical or horizontal doesn't matter. You just need a hole between the appliance breach and the baro damper.

buddy bout a mile away has the tool.

You can buy soft, copper (?), easily bendable brake tubing, and won't need to worry about a tubing bender. When I do brakes, I don't bother with that steel piping, cause it's such a pain to flair. But then again, even if you buy metal tubing, 1/8" is so small, you can bend it W/O kinking it. And my manometer tubing is hooked to a horizontal pipe also, cause there isn't any vertical in my house.

joeq wrote:You can buy soft, copper (?), easily bendable brake tubing, and won't need to worry about a tubing bender. When I do brakes, I don't bother with that steel piping, cause it's such a pain to flair. But then again, even if you buy metal tubing, 1/8" is so small, you can bend it W/O kinking it. And my manometer tubing is hooked to a horizontal pipe also, cause there isn't any vertical in my house.

Copper tubing is not legal for use on brake tubing!!!
If you use it and it fails you are liable. If you do it for someone else even for free as well as successive owners of the car. Brake lines need a double flair with the proper tools or just don't do them.

Lightning wrote:

deepwoods wrote:Thanks Lee. Now I gotta get to NAPA for brake pipe.........................

Do you have a tubing bender? If not, they would probably bend it for you.

If you crimp one end of the copper tubing completely closed, you can fill it with sand or water. If you fill it with water and freeze it, or use the sand, you can bend the copper without it kinking. Then once done, empty the tube and using a tubing cutter, cut the crimped end off.

Randy

You don't need a bender for brake line, bends easy by hand. Just make sure you back it up so it doesn't kink.

ddahlgren wrote:Copper tubing is not legal for use on brake tubing!!!
If you use it and it fails you are liable. If you do it for someone else even for free as well as successive owners of the car. Brake lines need a double flair with the proper tools or just don't do them.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, you're right DD. That's why I put a question mark next to it. Any auto parts store has "soft" brake lines, and I'm not sure what it's made of. It cost a bit more, and comes in a roll, and you're right about double flares. But today they even modified that, and incorporate a "bubble" flair, which is basically 1/2 of a double flair. But for a manometer, you could even use copper tube. Mine is 1/4" copper tho, and not 1/8th.

I just drilled a 1/2" hole in the side of a horizontal run of my stovepipe, about 12" after my MPD, but before my Baro. I used a brass 1/2" NPT to 1/8" barb fitting, which I just screwed into the hole I made in the stove pipe. I attached 12" of 1/8" vacuum hose to the fitting, then used a 1/8" barbed coupler to join that to the tubing that came with the manometer. Simple and inexpensive. Here's a picture:

brunom15 wrote:I just drilled a 1/2" hole in the side of a horizontal run of my stovepipe, about 12" after my MPD, but before my Baro. I used a brass 1/2" NPT to 1/8" barb fitting, which I just screwed into the hole I made in the stove pipe. I attached 12" of 1/8" vacuum hose to the fitting, then used a 1/8" barbed coupler to join that to the tubing that came with the manometer. Simple and inexpensive. Here's a picture:

Just some food for thought. By having the mano probe after the MPD, you don't get an actual reading of what pressure the stove is feeling which is the reading that's most desirable. That's if you close the MPD to control your draft..