which coal boiler to get

Sting wrote:

coalkirk wrote:I'm heating 4,000 sq. ft. with the Harman VF3K. As far as how often to tend it, I loaded the hopper on Sunday morning with 250# of coal and I just had to tend it tonight. Granted we did have some warm days this week. The hopper still had probably 30# of coal in it.

I was just reading again the size of load

4000sq feet? My load is just a bit larger and my 130,000 rated (inflated) appliance struggles with it. The Harmon must be very efficient or is your house well insulated?

My house is very well insulated and all new windows. My system is also alittle unique in that I'm using a water to air heat exchanger at a relatively low water temperature. I run the air handler all the time with the water tempered at about 100 degrees. It puts out a constant temp of around 80 degrees which keeps the house nice and uniform. Not a system for everyone but works well for me. If it gets really cold, I crank up the water temp in the heat exchanger. (with a tempering valve). I run the coal boiler at about 140 degrees. That has turned out to be the key to greatly reduced coal consumption, that and a properly set baro.

Interesting concept:

Lower boiler temps - tempered energy - longer circulation times - better run economy - more comfort.





Ok your load is large but the demand is not as hi as my poorly insulated load - demand goes exponentially crazy as degree days get taller at my house. I Really like your Harmon just not sure if it will keep up --- but then if it doesn't I can always add a little NG energy as I do now. If I can get over that, it would be better to run the snot out of a Harmon than under-fire a big Burnhan.

coalkirk wrote:I run the air handler all the time with the water tempered at about 100 degrees. It puts out a constant temp of around 80 degrees which keeps the house nice and uniform.

That is the ideal way with FHA. The one thing I always hated about forced air is when it shut down, you would feel it very quickly. Using a steady flow of warm air is close to radiant floor heat in its feel.

Sting,

I should also say that i'm not running the heck out of it either to meet the demand. It could run alot harder than I push it.

coalkirk wrote:Sting,

I should also say that i'm not running the heck out of it either to meet the demand. It could run alot harder than I push it.

Good to hear - Thank-you

Thanks all.

I checked the radiators. They do have slotted and threaded bolts for bleeders on the tops of the units.

I have two huge coal bins with metal doors available to the street. Both of them are proximate the boiler area.

Making life simple...what about just installing a Leisure Line stoker at 90,000 BTU's and using my existing system for backup? What, generally is the cost difference between a coal fire boiler and a stoker?

jack

i'd go with a coal-fired stoker STEAM boiler, you have two pipe steam, so use that type of system, don't bother changing it to hot water. i personally wouldn't go with a space heating appliance or even a forced air ducted one, i'd do as was suggested with the boiler, but keep it STEAM.

My system is also alittle unique in that I'm using a water to air heat exchanger at a relatively low water temperature. I run the air handler all the time with the water tempered at about 100 degrees. It puts out a constant temp of around 80 degrees which keeps the house nice and uniform. Not a system for everyone but works well for me. If it gets really cold, I crank up the water temp in the heat exchanger. (with a tempering valve). I run the coal boiler at about 140 degrees. That has turned out to be the key to greatly reduced coal consumption, that and a properly set baro.

I have a similar setup, but the circulator/air handler is thermostat controlled. I thought of doing it Coalkirk's way but I imagine running the pump and air handler 24/7 would use up too much electricity and cause it to wear out faster. 80 also feels cold, my high efficiency gas furnace blows 80 degree air and everyone complained. They like the hair dryer vents better One thing is for certain, the lower the boiler temp is the less coal that you'll use. In the fall I had mine turned down because it wasn't that cold and I saved a bunch.

e.alleg wrote:I thought of doing it Coalkirk's way but I imagine running the pump and air handler 24/7 would use up too much electricity and cause it to wear out faster.

Circulating pumps last much longer when they run continuous as opposed to starting and stopping them.

coaledsweat wrote:

e.alleg wrote:I thought of doing it Coalkirk's way but I imagine running the pump and air handler 24/7 would use up too much electricity and cause it to wear out faster.

Circulating pumps last much longer when they run continuous as opposed to starting and stopping them.

True for motors with a centrifugal switch operated starter winding. But not true for pumps like the Taco 007 cartridge circulator. Induction coupling between the stator and the rotor, and the phase shifting capacitor is always in the circuit. So lifetime is dependent only on the ceramic bearing wear.

The relay that switches the motor on and off is another story. The relay lifetime is inversely proportional to number of operations.

A reconditioned Efm 520 is the path to happiness Scott

stokerscot wrote:A reconditioned Efm 520 is the path to happiness Scott

and a good source or one available can be had at????

I am leaning toward buying a Harmon??? Don't know why - just have that warm fuzzy feeling! Sort of covet their pellet boiler too. If I had the deep pockets I would be smoking a HS Tarm in place of my old Traeger - but then ....

Sting wrote:

stokerscot wrote:A reconditioned Efm 520 is the path to happiness Scott

and a good source or one available can be had at????

I am leaning toward buying a Harmon??? Don't know why - just have that warm fuzzy feeling! Sort of covet their pellet boiler too. If I had the deep pockets I would be smoking a HS Tarm in place of my old Traeger - but then ....

Well you would have to come to PA first of all then you will find them at several different Places from 1500 to 2500 and up depending on what model all refurb how about a EFM 1300 for 6K 1.2 million BTU's should heat you place very nice

EFM 1300 for 6K 1.2 million BTU's


ouch

Too much power!

Buy a sf 520 then for 2000 or a Df 520 for 2500 if a 520 is to much buy a 350 for 1500